Gave my WD45 a tune up. Now it does run right.Help
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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Topic: Gave my WD45 a tune up. Now it does run right.Help
Posted By: braskyku
Subject: Gave my WD45 a tune up. Now it does run right.Help
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2010 at 12:02pm
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Howdy fellas. I've ignored the first rule of tractors. I tried to fix something that wasn't broken. Now it doesn't run right. I replaced the plugs, plugwires, rotor, cap, points, and a worn wire on the coil. I've gapped the plugs to 30 thousandsths like the manual said. The points are set to 20 thousandsths. The tractor fires right up but it has no power. It has a tough time going up my driveway which is at a very slight incline. It never had a problem with power before. As a matter of fact it ran real strong. Anyone have any suggestions? ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Replies:
Posted By: Ohio WD45
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2010 at 12:22pm
| Make sure the plug wires are going to the correct cylinder, and did not get switched around. |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2010 at 12:24pm
| I'd say your timing is off. Get or borrow a timing light and get it dialed in. If you need instructions, just say so and I or someone else can explain how to adjust the timing. |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2010 at 12:26pm
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Was the rotor bug a different style than the old one? There are 2 very different styles, and changing styles will change timing. I'll bet your timing is slow. Bring tractor to full throttle (which is actually 1/2) and then adjust timing for max and smoothest rpm. Then retard it back a couple of degrees until you just start to hear a slight drop in RPM. Then take on the hill and see if it's better.
JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2010 at 1:08pm
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Thanks for the advice! Instructions for timing would be great! My dad has a timing light I can use. JimD, the rotor bug was different. The one that was on it hooked over like a half moon shape and the new one just sticks straight out. I did put the old one back on to see if it'd make a difference but there was no change.
As a matter of fact I put all the old stuff back on and it still doesn't seem right.
Thanks again Fellas! ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 10:56am
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Changing the points and point gap changes the timing. You HAVE to set the timing after changing the points. There is no way around that. You could advance the timing until it pings going up hill in 4th gear at near full throttle when you open the throttle the rest of the way, then back off a hair. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 12:46pm
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I had an old time A-C dealer mechanic tell me that you knew when the timing was right when you snapped the throttle closed from full speed and got one loud backfire from the exhaust. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 1:11pm
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That's true Brian, especially with the right muffler. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 1:24pm
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Braskyku,
The best way is to hook up your timing light and shine it on the flywheel through the inspection port. There is a dot on the flywheel which should line up with a mark on the casing. Maybe find the marks before you start up the tractor and mark them with White-out or something highly visible.
Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt. While at idle, turn the distributor until the marks line up, then tighten down the distributor hold-down bolt.
If you can, rev up the engine and observe the marks with the timing light to make sure the timing advances when run at a higher rpm.
You should be ready to go.
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Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 2:21pm
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Thanks again guys! Where can I find the inspection port? I figure I'll use the hand crank to turn it over slow and find the F position. ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 2:40pm
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Crawl underneath your tractor, just behind the engine.
The timing mark is found by looking under the flywheel housing for a small hole possibly covered by a small plate held with two wing bolts. The FIRE mark and the TDC mark are located on the flywheel through this hole.
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Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 2:47pm
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Did you throw your old plug wires and coil wires away? If not, put them back on and see how it runs. Did you use solid wire plug and coil wires?
Another idea...are the points gapped right? Just some ideas. Hope you get it going... Mike |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 3:07pm
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I would put the timing light in the garage and do like Jim D says. "Bring tractor to full throttle (which is actually 1/2) and then adjust
timing for max and smoothest rpm. Then retard it back a couple of
degrees until you just start to hear a slight drop in RPM. Then take on
the hill and see if it's better.
JimD:
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 3:10pm
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You are welcomed to use a timing light, but I can tune one faster than walking to the barn to find my light. I've spent hours on the phone trying to teach somone how to verify TDC, and find the marks, and then mark it, and then get a friend to adjust while they use the light.
My method has it tuned in about 10 minutes tops.
JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 3:51pm
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I'm like JimD, just have an ear for it... ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 4:51pm
| It ain't timing! If it ran good before than it ain't timing. Not to say the timing might not be set the best but his problem ain't timing. I would veture to say he put in a bad new condenser. Had it happen to me yrs ago. |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 5:07pm
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wkpoor "As a matter of fact I put all the old stuff back on and it still doesn't seem right. " ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Robert Musgrave
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 5:13pm
| After moving WD throttle wide-open--slam throttle back to idle; engine should make two "cracks" (backfire?) before coming to rest at idle speed. Told to me by old A-C salesman who heard it from his mechanic Eldon Bash--Smith Farm Implement in Arlington, Ohio. This would have been late 50' or early 60's. Don't know if this is true of the WD-45. |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 5:16pm
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Robert, That is correct. When it's all tuned well, you should get at least 1 good "POP" out the exhaust. I always liked making it crack like that during a parade. Then just look around like it come from somewhere else. ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 5:31pm
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WKPOOR! Changing the point gap changes the timing. So you HAVE to set the timing AFTER you change the point gap setting. And you set the point gap when you put in new or old points. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 5:54pm
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Check your point gap again. Sounds like they are set too close. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 7:32pm
You missed my point. If it ran good or at least reasonably good before the tuneup then timing and point setting must have been close to tollerance. So simply replacing the points ( with correct gap ) and condenser would not change timing enough to cause his problem. Sure I understand point gap can effect timing but if point gap is close than timing will be too unless the distibutor was removed for this mx....at least good enough to not tell the difference. In fact I just mark the setting prior to removal and then tweak it by ear afterwards. We are splitting hairs here with an engine that runs about 1600rpm.
Thats why I said he might have installed a faulty new condensor. However he has since stated reinstalling the old parts didn't restore proper operation. I suspect there is something not being done correctly like already suggested ....incorrect point gap.
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Gerald J. wrote:Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 7:45pm
You missed my point. If it ran good or at least reasonably good before the tuneup then timing and point setting must have been close to tollerance. So simply replacing the points ( with correct gap ) and condenser would not change timing enough to cause his problem. Sure I understand point gap can effect timing but if point gap is close than timing will be too unless the distibutor was removed for this mx....at least good enough to not tell the difference. In fact I just mark the setting prior to removal and then tweak it by ear afterwards. We are splitting hairs here with an engine that runs about 1600rpm.
Thats why I said he might have installed a faulty new condensor. However he has since stated reinstalling the old parts didn't restore proper operation. I suspect there is something not being done correctly like already suggested ....incorrect point gap.
WK, what you say is true in a perfect world. A worn distributor shaft bushing can cause all sorts of fits from timing/dwell change. A worn bushing makes it impossible to accurately set the points. Move the shaft toward the points and the gap opens and dwell drops. Not enough dwell, not enough coil saturation time, equals weak spark. Go the other way and dwell increases, coil saturation increases, coil gets hotter from more "on" time and point life is reduced. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 9:26pm
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And that dwell change changes the timing. On a 4 cylinder engine, there's 90 degrees of distributor cam rotation per cylinder, 180 degrees at the crank. Typically the dwell time would be 45 degrees or 50% of the time the points are closed. That makes the total cam rise and fall about .040 spread over about a half inch circumference with a factory spec of .020 point gap. So that's .040 slope over the distance between cam peaks, say a half inch, or .020" change in cam circumference position for each .001" of point gap change without a worn shaft. If the cam has a distance between cam peaks of half an inch that's 90 degrees, so a .020" change in firing position, is 90 * .020 / .5 = 3.6 degrees timing change per .001" point gap change. That's almost significant. A .005" change in point gap moves the firing point 18 degrees. THAT'S significant! Gerald J. |
Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 10:14pm
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Well, I've just spent the last 5 hours trying to get it right. I found the inspection port and my dad cranked it with the hand crank until I located the F. I put some of my wifes fingernail polish on the and let it dry a bit so it would be easier to find. Then we started it and it fired right up but still doesn't run right. While I used the timing light my dad moved the condenser. We had the throttle wide open and it started acting real funny. It was running really rough and the air cleaner was getting air forced into it and it was spurting oil intermittently out of the top of the cleaner onto the hood. I did recently clean down the air cleaner and give it some new oil. That was when it was running good. Once we got the F to stay in the center of the inspection port it still wasn't running right. I would say it ran only slightly better. Only thing I could think to do at that point was to check the carb. I did get some improvement while adjusting the main load. The air cleaner stopped spurting oil and it ran a little smoother. I would like to confirm that it should be wide open while trying to time it. There is a second mark on the flywheel but it does not have a letter or anything next to it. It is just a mark but is clearly there intentionally. I do not understand why it was purring along before and had all kinds of power and now it can't make it up a 3 degree incline without sputtering and bucking and jiving. If i posted some pictures would that help in anyway? Thanks, David ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 10:41pm
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Makes me wonder if you have a couple plug wires turned around. The firing order is 1 2 4 3. Find #1 cylinder compression stroke. You can do that by turning the engine by hand with your thumb over the spark plug hole. When it pushes your thumb off, turn until you get to TDC. Where ever the rotor is pointing that is #1. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the dist turns clockwise. Put the wires on 1 2 4 3 and see what happens. Timing is set at idle speed only. At idle, turn the dist to center the "Fire" line in the hole. Speed the engine up to full speed just to see that the timing advances only. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Stuart OH
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 12:20am
| No power spitin and sputtern,I'd check the firing order 1 then I'd check the fuel for water drain the float bowl and then check for fuel flow, I had flys in the fill tube for the sediment bowl once that caused same problem wasn't getting enough fuel,would slow the engine down would smooth up If thats all good the coil may have went bad. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 2:33am
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Timing is usually set at idle, because the timing gets advanced by the centrifugal mechanism in the distributor at higher speeds. Its beneficial to check with the timing light that the centrifugal advance works. But there should be about 20 degrees crankshaft advance from idle to top speed. Easy starting and poor power are signs of retarded timing. The second mark is probably top dead center. Gerald J. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 7:44am
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Brian, you should qualify your statement. When using a timing light,"Timing is set at idle speed only. At idle, turn the dist to center the
"Fire" line in the hole. Speed the engine up to full speed just to see
that the timing advances only. " ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 9:53am
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Hi Fellas. So then we are agreed that it should be timed at idle? This was a major arguement between my dad and I. He kept saying that it should be set somewhere around 500 rpms and not wide open. I was telling him that ya'll were telling me that it needed to be wide open. At slower rpms it does not sound nearly as bad. Tonight I plan to take pictures and post them. I'm going to take pictures of the old and new stuff. I assure you the I have the firing order correct so I will post a picture of that too. I will take pictures of the flywheel F and | <-- Mark. I have gapped and regapped and reregapped the plugs and points. I've even used two different feeler guages to make sure. My I&T AC-11 isn't all they helpful. There is so much info about the other tractors, B, C, CA, WD, G, etc that its hard to even figure out what you are reading and looking at. Is there a better book? If you want any other pictures let me know and I'll take them. Thanks again! David------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 10:58am
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"and a worn wire on the coil" - Did you put good wire back on and not some resistor wire?
"I replaced the plugs, plugwires, rotor, cap, points",
- 1. what plugs you put in? champs or AC or autolite? I use AC... champs -never!
2. did you connect the condensor up correctly in distributor cap?
3. did you check rotor in dist. for side to side slop/play?
4. did you work on this stuff with greasy /dirty fingers or use graphite grease or put fingers inside of cap/on rotor.
5. Have you reset the timing to the FIRE mark yet at IDLE?
6. Does it sound labored when it is just running?
7. As a general rule of thumb is this, when the tractor is being cranked by hand, the initial spark should be just after top dead center so the person cranking does not get killed trying to start those old beasts.
8.having oil come out the aircleaner is usually caused by fuel in cylinder and intake valve is open to allow compression or explosion to go out through intake system. - Can be caused by firing order wrong, or crossfire in the cap or rotor or through plug wires Or point contacts not making good conact..or poor connection/ground in dist. or coil. Also could be sticking valves... but don't think that is the case here.
9. what else did you do? pull distributor or set valves or ??? change coils or convert to 12 volts etc???
Something doesn't sound right and should be a simple thing such s the timing. Haven't for years used feeler gauges for plugs or points, just set them by sight and adjust timing by ear. Old timers said matchbook cover was close enough for point gapping. mmm, don't know if match book covers have gotten thinner since then or not.
10. Is your spark hot? Like when its running and pull a plug wire and it goes SNAP SNAP SNAP 3/4 inch sparks long blue /red /white color to them? Yellow short and thin is not good. Get on it and get it figured out.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 11:28am
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Yellow and thin spark is a sure sign of a bad condenser. I&T covers rebuild, not daily care. Daily care items, like tuneups and oil changes are covered in the original owner's manual. The AC shop manual probably has ten times the information of the I&T manual and may be more accurate. Once I got the JD shop manual for my 4020 that is 1-1/2" thick, I use the I&T manual as a book mark, its too thin to be a door stop. Gerald J. |
Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 9:06pm
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Hey fellas, Alright so as promised I have taken some pictures. I have also discovered something new. On the flywheel there are two "F" marks and two | (other marks). How would a guy determine which F to time off of? Thanks, David          ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 9:14pm
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I'm not going to bother telling you how to time the tractor again, but I will comment on your plugs. The one on the right is fowled. Your timing in severly retarded. You might ask some of them fellers that are so dead set on the timing light how to advance timing using the light. I don't even remember where mine is, or the last time I used it.
If you want to call my toll free number during business hours, I will be happy to go through timing the tractor with you by ear. You will need to be able to stand next to the distributor and talk to me on the phone. Have the 2 bolts just a little loose so you can turn the distributor when you call.
Or you can keep trying what hasn't worked so far. I'm not trying to be offensive, but we could have had you hapilly working a long time ago.
JImD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 9:16pm
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You also have some plug wires swapped. Switch out #'s 2 and 3. and let us know what you have.
JImD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 9:19pm
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Thanks for your help. No, I didn't use a resistor wire. In the pictures you can see it. Its black with yellow ends. I've double check to make sure everything is clean and tight. Haven't tried timing at idle. That is my next try. I wouldn't call it labor while running but more like.... not right. I didn't do anything besides the tune up. I had ordered the parts 6 months ago and they were still laying around so I finally decided to put them on. Wish I never would have! Spark is good and hot. Real blue and it bit me once while making sure. So here's the plan 1. I've ordered a video from Steiner Tractor called how to tune up your wd45. 2. Do what the video says 3. If that doesn't work, time it at idle 4. if that doesn't work, time it to the other F at idle 5. if that doesn't work, start replacing one part at a time. 6. if that doesn't work, pull out hair 7. if that doesn't work, pay someone ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 9:44pm
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Hey Jim, Thanks for all of your help! I have carefully read all of the ideas and gone with what I figured was the safest bet. I'm sorry to say that while I know my way around a tractor I could know a lot more. Don't worry, you can't offend me. I really do appreciate all the support. I'm going to print out your instructions and give it a shot. There are a lot of ideas and info on here. You've been a big help! I honestly may take you up on the phone call. I still want to mess with it some more before I call in the reinforcements. Thanks again, David I named her Elvira and she cleaned this out last winter.    ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 10:22pm
This is the wire that was replaced. You can see the black wire that replaced it too. ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: Jeff(WC)(MI)
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 10:37pm
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Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 11:02pm
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I just got in now and read these postings.
I have tell you, you don't know your way around Allis as good as you thought. Now this will be an embarressing experiance for you specially when you have shown your troubles to the whole wide web.
And now the lesson, go out and do what Jim D. told you to do, - switch plug wires 2 & 3 and then tell us what happened. The distributer looking down at it turns clockwise, and the fireing order is 1243.
Now, save your money, - "So here's the plan
1. I've ordered a video from Steiner Tractor called how to tune up your wd45. 2. Do what the video says" theres been more than enough advice given here to get you through. Now have a good night and put on your list of to do's things fist thing in the morning is changing plug wires. ;-) |
Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 5:12am
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While your at it, don't feel bad if you have crossed a couple plug wires. I know how they are to be connected, but 3 or 4 years ago, time constraints, being overly tired, and just plain not being able to count to four I messed it up on my WD45, twice, before I finally opened my eyes and did it correctly. Have a good day. ------------- When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!! |
Posted By: CJohnS MI
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 6:57am
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#2 & #3 plug wires are reversed. Thanks for those fantastic photos - they are perfectly done & can be used to help others in future. Especially the shot of flywheel timing mark. C. John |
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 9:50am
| Crossed wires from day one.Any time you belch back through the carb after haveing good running unit prior to repairs.... |
Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 10:30am
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Here's one for you: This one had us scrtching our heads for awhile. Basically, ran rough for a time when we were using it for about two hours on light duty, mostly a fast idle and would rev up but got us by just puttering around the place here. Parked it and shut the fuel off to run the carb out of fuel. Now it was running when we finished and stopped for the day.
Went to fire it up the next time about 3 weeks later and spent the next 8 hours or so over the next 3 days trying to get it to start. It would just pop on the last revolution-to give us hope to keep trying...Hmmmm...... We went through everything from fuel to electrics-still with the same result-pop!
Finally my buddy had the bright idea to get back to the basics--bring #1 on compression and see which way the rotor bug was pointing... you ready for this?????---- it was pointing to #4!!!! even though the plug wires were set right on the cap..1,2,4,3. Now why my 45 was even running 180 degrees off is flabbergasting to think of as I didn't have a clue that it even would.
After we set it back right and went from there, made the adjustments to the carb and timed it by ear, it'll now start within the 1st spin without the choke.
This is the tractor that has the loader on it that I'm having to repair the cylinder on.
So, be assured that you're not alone when things "appear" to go from good to "shoulda left it alone"! But what an education!!
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Posted By: George Davenport
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 10:32am
| Bump |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 11:58am
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Looking at your pictures Brasky, and if the distributor turns counter clockwise, your spark plug wires are in the correct order. Remember, 1,2,4,3, NOT 1,3,4,2. Crank the engine with the dist cap off to be sure of which way it turns. Looking at the pic of your points, they indicate counter clockwise rotation. Once you know which way it turns, find #1 compression stroke. You can use your thumb over the spark plug hole or a compression test gauge. Once you find that compression stroke, turn the engine to TDC (top dead center, piston all the way to the top). Look at where the rotor is pointing. That is where the #1 plug wire goes. From there, continue around the cap in firing order in the direction the dist spins. Now that we have the plug wires in the correct locations, it's time to "find a spark". To do that, I turn the switch on and stick a spark plug in the end of the coil wire and rotate the distributor very slowly until the points open while making sure the #1 post of the cap is over the tip of the rotor. The instant the spark jumps, stop turning the dist.
Now, repeat after me: "Ignition timing is set at idle speed only. The only exceptions to this rule are some large 2 cycle outboards." Above idle speed, the mechanical advance in the distributor advances the timing. If you set the F line in the center of the window above idle, your timing will be retarded (late) and the engine will lack power. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Duey (IA)
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 1:33pm
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These instruction are from the operating instructions
and repair manual for the WD45 tractor. "Place No. I spark plug wire directly above rotor. Proceed around distributor clockwise No. 2,4 and 3. Place coil wire in center. When checking timing with timing light the spark will occur when fire mark is in center of inspection opening when engine is above 1000 R.P.M." This indicates the fire mark is the advance mark of an engine running faster than 1000 R.P.M. when checked with a timing light. |
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 1:49pm
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Clock wise rotation.The rotor even "tells" you that.The tang trails not leads. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 4:38pm
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I stand corrected on the engine speed. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: braskyku
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 5:05pm
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Hi again guys, I am happy to say that this will be my last post about the topic. She is running like a sewing machine now! In case you are curious what I did... I removed the plug wires, plugs, distributer, rotor, dust cover, and points. I regapped everything (which was perfect). I cranked it over with the hand crank until I found the compression stroke on number one. Then I crawled under her and my wife SLOWLY turned the hand crank until I could see the "mark" was dead center in the inspection port. I want to stress that IT IS NOT ***NOT*** the "F". The "F" did not work but the "mark" | was TDC. Disregard the "F". I put the rotor on with the dust cover off. Then I lined up the rotor with the Battery Lead Terminal. There is a wire that goes to/from the coil. I rotated it until the points just broke. Then one more time which was 180 degrees from the first time the points broke. Tightened it down. Next I put it all back together. I made sure everything was tight. Then I fired her up and.... Perfect! No adjustments needed! JimD, you will be happy to know that I never once touched the timing light this time. That one plugs was just a little dirty from greasy fingers. I wiped it off and it was just fine. Looking at those pictures again you were right, I did have the wires on for a counterclockwise rotation. That was surely part of the problem. However, I did switch them as suggested and it still wasn't right. JC from Wisconsin, Don't worry... I don't feel like a fool. LOL!!! By the way, you wouldn't happen to be a German would you? You "sound" like one. :) The rest of the fellas.... Thank you so much for all of the advice and support. Its a good feeling when she turned over and ran right. I did make sure it had power again. I ran her up the steepest hill on my property and it powered right up it. Once again, Thank you everyone so much for all of the help! Now, I'm off to the next project... Brakes. ------------- 1955 WD45 schwartz front end |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 9:27pm
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Glad to hear you got it straightened out. I got the book out and was surprised to see the above 1000 rpm thing. I've done it by ear so long, didn't realize that was the "correct" way to do it. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 11:09pm
| Isn't "F" for the timing light with engine at speed? FIRE! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 6:50am
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Yes, "When checking timing with timing light the spark will occur when fire mark is in center of inspection opening when engine is above 1000 R.P.M." ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 11:29am
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Braskyku,
Glad to hear you finally got it running.
But you did lose me in the "I lined up the rotor with the Battery Lead Terminal". With the engine on compression stroke and set at TDC, an points just ready to open, its going to be in the wrong position from what the factory set it at.... Your No. 1 plug wire should be sitting in the position of your pic just below the autolite sparkplug box pic. Is that where its at now? - But as long as you got spark at the right time, to the right cylinder, it really doesn't matter where they are on the cap.
Didn't say you would be a fool, just said it would be an "embarressing experiance" like in "oh dummy me". I've been there too.
Now if your talking about brakes on the WD45 and have never worked on them, and have not read up on them either, you will be back here again, and plenty of fellows will help with suggestions and experiances from their brake repairs. Like getting the pins out.... are they loose , if not better start soaking them with some kind of rust buster now.
Finally, Not german but just some sevede . LOL
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