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Voltage Regulator

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=154874
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 10:19am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Voltage Regulator
Posted By: prbean
Subject: Voltage Regulator
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2018 at 2:28pm
VOLTAGE REGULATOR ON 200 NOT working!



Replies:
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2018 at 2:59pm
If you know it's the regulator then you replace it. If you're not sure it's the regulator then you might tell us the symptoms.


Posted By: prbean
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2018 at 3:25pm
not keeping the battery churged


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2018 at 3:35pm
Most auto parts stores can test an alternator off the vehicle. IIRC, a 200 uses the 10DN style GM alternator. I know the 10Si has a D shaped hole that you can stick a screwdriver in and full field the rotor. I can't remember if the 10DN has that same feature or not. If it does, you can full field it and see if it starts working. If it does, test the wires between the alternator and regulator with a headlight bulb. DO NOT use an ohmmeter because 1 strand of wire will fool you into thinking the circuit is good when that one strand won't carry the current needed. Cleaning off any rust/paint under the regulator can help.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2018 at 6:29pm
The 10DN didn't have the oval hole for checking output. (On the 10DN there is a two wire plug going straight into the back of the housing with "R" and "F" cast in the housing beside the hole. The later 10SI' had the plug in the side.) If it is a Delco 10DN, to check the alternator you can force it to full output by removing the two wire plug from the back of the alternator. Then use a jumper wire between the battery wire terminal on the alternator and "F" (field) terminal in the alternator to excite the alternator. (Keep the battery terminal wire connected to the alternator, and of course the engine must be running. This bypasses the regulator. If it shows charge, the alternator is working and it is a wiring or regulator issue.


Posted By: Phil48ACWC
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 6:53am
https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/chevy-high-output-105-amp-alternator-3-wire-65-85-10si-7127-105.html%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/chevy-high-output-105-amp-alternator-3-wire-65-85-10si-7127-105.html

Click on above. Get a 3 wire 10 SI with built in solid state regulator and be done with it. I put one of these on my 12V negative ground tractor 20 years ago and no problems since.

Wire it per below. Click on it. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+3+wire+10+SI+wiring&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS790US790&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=LuBiAqZMzCcniM%253A%252CdPnO8gjViYo6VM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kRLrPvbN2FttQzM3yzOum4xGT0gkw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjajOrk9Y_eAhUkiOAKHQ0YDsgQ9QEwBnoECAUQEA#imgrc=D2wg5IjmKkuMJM:" rel="nofollow - https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+3+wire+10+SI+wiring&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS790US790&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=LuBiAqZMzCcniM%253A%252CdPnO8gjViYo6VM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kRLrPvbN2FttQzM3yzOum4xGT0gkw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjajOrk9Y_eAhUkiOAKHQ0YDsgQ9QEwBnoECAUQEA#imgrc=D2wg5IjmKkuMJM:


Posted By: Phil48ACWC
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 7:09am
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=10+SI+3+wire+alternator&_pgn=3&_skc=100&rt=nc%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=10+SI+3+wire+alternator&_pgn=3&_skc=100&rt=nc

Click on above. Just get a 3 wire so you get instant charge when you start your tractor. One wire units require goosing the throttle to get the alternator charging. Something you don't really want to do with a cold engine. Sorry the web site didn't come through in my last post.


Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 7:26am
You need to keep the DN style if you want the tach to work on a 200.


Posted By: Phil48ACWC
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 7:59am
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Delco-Marine-10SI-Alternator-Mercruiser-3-Wire-with-Tachometer-63-AMP-Tach/140847580878?hash=item20cb2b86ce:g:r4oAAOSw3xVaE02~:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Delco-Marine-10SI-Alternator-Mercruiser-3-Wire-with-Tachometer-63-AMP-Tach/140847580878?hash=item20cb2b86ce:g:r4oAAOSw3xVaE02~:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr

Click on above. Here's one with a tach wire. Call D&B electrical at 1-800-753-2242. Best prices and service i've found.


Posted By: ryan(IN)
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 8:24am
The 10si with tach wire would work if the 200 had an electric tach. The tach is driven by a gear off the back of the alternator. That’s why the 10dn is used.

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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62


Posted By: JimIA
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 8:49am

Does it still have the external regulator alternator?

I sell our customers an external regulator that is solid state.  Reasonably priced and works amazing well.  Hooks right up, no new mounts or harnesses needed.  Even looks original.  I put one on my 185 two years ago, planning on installing one our One-Ninety and One-Seventy soon. 
 
Jim


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An open eye is much more observant than an open mouth



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