8070 FWA questions
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15342
Printed Date: 04 Feb 2025 at 8:41am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 8070 FWA questions
Posted By: darrel in ND
Subject: 8070 FWA questions
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 12:18am
| I took my 8070 FWA to the field for the first time today. I bought it a few months ago with the engine out, and put a salvage yard engine in it. First question is, it has 75 psi oil pressure warmed up, now I know good oil pressure is a good thing, but isn't 75 psi a bit steep. The engine seems to run good and has good power. Next question is that the tach is reading probably about twice what the engine is actually running, to the point of pegging out at high idle. What might be the problem there? Third question; when I first started it up, the tranny filter light did not come on, later on it did, so I changed the filter. Now the lite is on sometimes, off some times, probably on a little more than off. Any ideas there? Last question, I hope, at least for now. Did Allis ever make a shield for the front axle drive shaft? When I took it to the field, I was cutting hay with it with a swing tongue, and as it goes with a swing tongue, you have to strattle your windrow from the previous round with the tractor. Part way into the 3rd round, it suddenly died. The unshielded front drive line had so much hay wrapped around it, that it tore the fuel line off. Not a good deal. Any one else pulling a swing tongue with a FWA ever have this happen, and if so how did you remedy it? Thanks in advance for any and all help. Darrel |
Replies:
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 12:39am
| 50 at high idle hot is good but the thing you need is 20 at idle(850) hot(like field working hot) Be sure your guage is accurate.You can back out the pressure regulator plug just above the turbo drain return to reduce it.If you plumb your guage to one of the 3 plugs hiding behind rt side filters you will be reading after filter pressure instead of oil pump pressure down by the pan rail in the middle of the block. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 9:29am
| Steve, I have the guage plumbed into where the switch for the idiot light is supposed to be, since it doesn't work anyway. Didn't really have a chance to check it at idle hot, since it died pretty suddenly when the fuel line went. If the pressure is quite high at idle, are you thinking I should back er off a little? Thanks, Darrel |
Posted By: Russ-neia
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 9:49am
|
Allis never offered a driveline guard. I put a shaft-gaurd on my 8010 since I use it for mowing and round baling. Took a length of 6" auger tubing, put a bracket on the back of one half to bolt to the belly/hydraulic pump guard. Front length I split lengthwise and removed about 3/8" strip, then wrap wire or chain around it and twist to pull seam together and weld. This will make it small enough to fit inside the front axle pivot and telescope inside the rear piece of tubing. Put a bolt through where the two halves meet so that it doesn't slide together during use.   ------------- The innovators offer what others will imitate. |
Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 11:09am
|
As Steve said you need to have the gauge plumbed to the oil gallery behind filters to get a accurate reading, with it plumbed in where the sender is will give you a higher reading. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 1:03pm
| I really appreciate the help guys. Thanks. Looks like I'll have to get busy building a driveline shield. Darrel |
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 3:18pm
| I was told by a retired AC field man that the pumps in the 7&8000 series 426 push way more oil than the filters can handle when they get dirty so the filter bypass starts bypassing dirty oil to the main gally.If that is all true,then high pressure surley adds to the "bypass problem".This man as well as a local AGCO service mgr told me that 20lb hot idle is the baseline.I think the book says 50lb hot high idle.The filter bypass is in the filter base,the pressure regulator is a 3/4in plug in the side of the block just above the turbo return.A good solid whack on the end of the plug with a big punch will make it turn easier to begin with.Bout have to remove the rubber hose to get a good straight shot.Then you can use a 6 point socket as well.As it was explained to me, the fault of the design of oil system is that all oil goes through filters before the pressure regulator so if filters get restricted the dirty oil must bypass and in extreme conditions can colapse filter media tearing media and sending it into gally plugging flow.#5 rod is the first to go because the main that feeds it is first one closest to what's coming from the filters. |
Posted By: ScottinSWIL
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 10:03pm
| So Russ, what is your secret to greasing the u-joints with that cover on there? Looks like a good idea. |