What length 3/4" carriage bolt for wheel weights?
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Topic: What length 3/4" carriage bolt for wheel weights?
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Subject: What length 3/4" carriage bolt for wheel weights?
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2010 at 8:25pm
| I took off all the wheel weights on my 45 diesel today so that I could fix the one rear tire that needed a new tube. I had to lay it down flat and use the 2 x 12 ramp technique with the truck to get it to pop off the bead. Anyways, when I put the wheel weights on for pulling last year, I used 3/4 redirod to mount them, but they got all buggered up from taking weights on and off them. I would like to use the carriage bolts so I can use twp on each weight and then another two carriage bolt between one weight and the next weight. How long do the bolts have to be? I am going to have to order them from Fastenal as noone locally carries 3/4" carriage bolts. I would like to get enough so I can mount up to 4 weights on each side. Then I will have to train and see how fast I can get them on from one pull to the next weight class!! |
Replies:
Posted By: Dennis(IA)
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2010 at 8:43pm
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I did not use carriage bolts, and I can't remember how long of a bolt that I used. I used a regular 3/4" bolt and welded a small piece of rectangular steel next to the head of the bolt that fits into the square hole of the wheel. A carraige bolt as you suggest would work also. The next step is to drill a cross hole in the bolt for a cotter pin to prevent the bolt from falling out when I install the wheel weights. Because I also use my WD45 for tractor pulling the weights go off and on a few times a year and this works great. Have your wife hold the weight up to the wheel while you measure for the proper length (just kidding) ;-).
I bought grade 8 bolts and went through a lot of drill bits to get them drilled.
Dennis
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Posted By: Dave (NE)
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2010 at 9:00pm
| The carriage bolts are 3/4" x 3 1/2". |
Posted By: HaroldOmaha
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 12:45am
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The first bolt in the rim has to be 3" because it is thinner than two weights. Also use grade 8 bolts. regular bolts are a bear when the threads get buggered.
I'am sending some pictures of todays pull.
I weighed 5,460 and I pulled the 5500 class and the 6000 class with the same weight.
most of the tractors were 6000 to 6100 lbs
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Posted By: HaroldOmaha
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 12:48am
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Posted By: HaroldOmaha
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 12:50am
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Posted By: HaroldOmaha
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 12:52am
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Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 7:39am
| Did you retire the diesel from the pulling circuit Harold? I'm getting close to your amount of weights but not quite there. I have four sets for each side. Last year I pulled in a 5000 lb. class which I had one F and H and two AC weights per side, and I was still under the weight, but I didn't have any more and I took 4th or 5th out of about 25 tractors. I am still debating if I want to go up to the 6000 lb. class. If I do and try to do both, I have three sets of rear weights and some front weights to get on between classes and they are right after each other. |
Posted By: HaroldOmaha
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 10:40am
| I am still pulling the diesel but I am trying to compare the gas to the diesel by loading all of the weights on it. Never have pulled the gas in the 5500 and 6000 lb classes before. The sled we pulled yesterday favors tractors with bigger tires . I can pull one sled one day with the diesel and beat the JDs by 30', then pull the Truck sled( Little Red Sled) the next day against the same tractors and come in last. The gas 45 is about 400lbs lighter in the front and did considerly better on the Little Red Sled. |
Posted By: HaroldOmaha
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2010 at 9:57pm
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Hey Chuck don't forget on some pulls, where they are not so picky on how stock the tractor is,you can take a d-17 straight drawbar and cut it off and redrill the hole so the clevis just miss's the yoke. and still be legal length from the center of the rear axel.
Good luck
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