Found someone who's selling a 6080.  It was his fathers and his father has passed and the son has bought a newer tractor with cab...

The 6080 has clearly been kept under cover for years....very clean looking.

Seller had no knowledge of the Thrust bearing issues on the machine (nor did I so I don't/can't fault him for this)

Looking at the tractor and never having looked over an AC before, I had no way to visually tell if the bearing was fixed or not.

I didn't notice anything on the front of the engine that would be considered a 'bra'.  I could not find the serial number of the machine to dig into age.  If the serial number was next to the clutch pedal....then bluntly....  it was worn and not readable.

None the less....  that's just the precursor...

My question resides with the hand clutch (is it correct to call it a clutch?) on the right side of the machine.

It was in the pulled back position which I understand to be the position that keeps it under pressure (like pushing and holding the clutch on your car)

Bottom line....  he thought they ALWAYS had it in this position but for maybe when they are specifically using the mower (this machine was their dedicated mowing machine)

So this gets me wondering since I don't know the status of any thrust bearing in there...

The following is essentially a question

Worst case:  They have the original (bad setup) thrust bearing in there and they keep the clutch pulled back as a matter of practice

Best case:  Machine had any given factory fix (so I presume the thrust bearing isn't now an issue???) BUT....they keep the clutch pulled back as a matter of practice.

What might be a result of that lever being held back all the time?

Good points on the tractor (and mower), they look like they've spent their life under cover (mower is a Bush Hog 315 and according to BH, they STOPPED making those about 50 years ago.  I'd believe it if you told me it was only 10 years old!!

Thanks for any thoughts.

When the long lever is pulled back it puts pressure on the crank and in time it will ruin the crank bearings.  The "bra" is simply a bracket across the front of the engine with a bearing that puts pressure on the crank in reverse of what pulling the lever back does.

I do not know how you would tell if the crank bearings were damaged, maybe Dr Allis or someone will chime in here.

I think they are a great tractor we have a 6060, same tractor, just less HP.

Bill

 

Sorry if this is a dumb question. 

So it's Fiat that came up with the weird setup.

I'm guessing, but comparing it to our IH 444, you have to do a full clutch to disengage the blades whereas with this, I guess you can clutch with the right hand and keep moving to your next field without stopping.  Let clutch out and keep on keeping on.

(??)

I say that tongue in cheek as someone who two years ago, had "frozen shoulder" and at the same time, rotator cuff surgery AND a SLAP tear (whatever that is/was!) and then LAST year, in the OTHER shoulder, fell and broke the humerus in two just below the ball.  Spent six weeks in an imobilazation sling and am currently at round 15 weeks of therapy trying to get my strength & range of motion back.

So now, with two flailing arms....  I'm looking at a machine with levers everywhere.

I just see some twisted humor in that.

:)

According to the pictures, the meter shows 5,703 hours. 

Seems I'm having trouble adding another picture.  This will give a flavor though.

cripes...  trying to post pictures, said I took too long and it's spam...

All of them say error... (wonder if file size (around 300Kb) is too big?)

I'll try when I get home later today.

Is there any way to turn that exhaust stack downward?

I'm always hitting a branch or two around here and on my backhoe (JCB), the exhaust pipe takes the brunt of the scrape...  as would this unit.

Gets old having a branch gain tension by the exhaust stack only to let go and make a swipe at you as you're driving by!!

Is it the starter that requires two batteries?  Could the starter be swapped out so you could get by with a single battery?  (I'm guessing if so, that would create other issues)

He said you generally need the ether in cold weather to start this.  I'm just wondering out loud but why would a tractor need ether yet, our IH 444 doesn't nor does my JCB backhoe.

Is it a function of how fast they spin the engine to start?

Just wondering outloud...

It is and I think I'm getting the mower too (Bush Hog 315)  

Since none of our machines require Ether, I don't have much history with it....  that said, I was having a voice in the back of my head that was asking me "Isn't Ether supposed to be bad for diesels?"

<<shruggs shoulders>>

I guess it is what it is.

Since this has two clutches....

Do the blades keep turning when:

1.  The tractor is at a stand still while in neutral? (but blades engaged)

2.  Foot clutch fully engaged?

I'm guessing the answer is yes which is kind of intersting.  Our 444 has the dual clutch thing and when you stop (clutch engaged) the blades stop....and I don't always want that to happen.

Is that to say the "repair" kit isn't on the tractor?

If so, would that mean the bearing issue is still an issue?

What if it's had a short block installed?  How would one tell?

Side note:  The current owner (whom I believe to be the original owners son) is totally unaware of any issues with the tractor and didn't seem to know of any service visits with the tractor (which I presume would have been needed if a short block was installed)

Then again, could the tractor have had that done PRIOR to the purchase??

I get that...  but when the Service Bulliten says ".004 to .030" inch....  it doesn't stike me as a quick/easy thing for someone who's never done that while (I suppose) under a tractor.  (I'm mechanically inclined so not concerned about trying to check, I just need to know/understand what and where to look)

Don't know anything concrete about the bearing yet.  Going out this weekend (unless its raining) to try to ascertain.  Meanwhile, he's supposed to be hunting down the serial number so we can maybe see where it falls on the list.

He's fixing the twisted spline on the mower and the rubber shock bushings...

Said I'm welcome to come out and cut his field once he gets the parts back together (reason for my visit on Saturday)

Said he'd deliver tractor AND mower to my house, about 60 minutes away from him, for $8,000.

Don't recall if I mentioned this....

My pupose for this is a mower.  Looking to cut the family farm.  To reword that....  I'm looking for a mower to cut property that I don't own 100% (family partnership)

So in a sense, I'm looking to buy something to maintain someone elses land (though my wife is a 10% owner)

I want to buy something affordable and will do the job (cutting maybe 100'ish acres of fields)

I'm mechanically inclined so am not afraid of turning a wrench & getting dirty every now & then (you should see me when I dig into my JCB backhoe...!!!!)

Should I prepare a check for 8K?

oh, and is the bearing fixable if it's the issue?  Or is the bra the fix?

If the bra is the fix, how much damage could be in there "today" if the bra hasn't been on there?

Anyway, he found the engine serial number, is going back tonight to hunt the Chassis number.

The number on the engine is:  33-08712

Another number on that tag is: 4009241

It's faded out a bit buy it looks like it's called a Catalog number (?)

Another numer on the upper left of that same tag is 43 3I  (or is it 433I)

Does this tell anything yet?

If the thrust bearing has "X" amount of wear on it...  well, a couple questions:

1.  How easy it it to replace?  (I presume drop crank is part of the process)

2.  If it's got "X" amount of wear AND the bra is added, is that enough to give it more life?

In other words...  if you have an early model (as I'm suspecting this is) and there are no evident issues with the bearing....  can the bra be added "today" and all is well?

By the way, I DO want to say "thank you" for all the help here and the handful of PM's I've received.  It is appreciated.

As far as hard starting, we rarely use ether. We always plug the block heater in 30-45 minutes before we need to run it. Starts very easily in that short period of time. Great tractor.

I've found a bra....but nothing yet to fill it with!

Meaning, the "frame" has been found.  I think it's actually a new OEM unit too.  It's not the kit, just the frame.  The other parts would have to be ordered (or found) individually.

No time tonight to dig more ito that....but anyone care to venture on a limb and give odds on how easy the rest of the parts might be?

I am guessing the bra would be the hard part, what else is there?  some bolts, maybe a spacer, a bearing...?

I don't recall the price but the bra was something like $350 for that part alone.