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wd45 idle adjustment

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15102
Printed Date: 04 Feb 2025 at 8:52am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: wd45 idle adjustment
Posted By: Jeff(WC)(MI)
Subject: wd45 idle adjustment
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 7:04pm
I been trying to get my wd45 to idle down a bit but can;t seem to get it right..i have played with the linkages and adjustments but can;t get it down....can someone tell me the correct procedure for adjusting this?  want to take it to a parade but i took dads MF 135 to a parade last week and it idled fast and it was a pain to keep spacing..thanks for any help



Replies:
Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 7:15pm
Timing might be advanced to much.

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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.


Posted By: Jeff(WC)(MI)
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 7:21pm
we just put new points and condensor in it and adjusted timing since someone had apparently adjusted the timing for the horrible points....but it idled fast before and after we did this


Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 4:54am
Check for vacuum leaks between manifold and head,and between carb and manifold.

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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 5:40am
The actual idle speed is set by the butterfly stop screw on the back of the carburetor. The idle mixture screw adjust the air fuel mixture to match this setting. That said it has to get there in small adjustments to each to get to that point. You can only get a proper idle setting if all passages in the carburetor are clean. 


Posted By: Jeff(WC)(MI)
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 7:13am
carb has been cleaned out..we will try to adjust those screws again and check for air leaks..thanks guys


Posted By: KenBWisc
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 8:10am
Could also be your governor isn't letting it come down.

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'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!


Posted By: Ohio WD45
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 9:06am
How important is that spring that goes to the carb linkage to the block drain?  I have looked at shows and I see some with it and some without it. 


Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 12:30pm
Ohio;if the spring is where it belongs,it is the return for the CHOKE rod.Things won't work with it on the throttle>


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 1:55pm

As far as the governor, you need to have a slight governor pressure holding the butterfly closed. They will work dead nuts but it is recommended that you have 1/16 of an inch linkage pressure pushing the carburetor butterfly closed at idle. 



Posted By: bigfish_Oh
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 6:15pm
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:

As far as the governor, you need to have a slight governor pressure holding the butterfly closed. They will work dead nuts but it is recommended that you have 1/16 of an inch linkage pressure pushing the carburetor butterfly closed at idle. 



This solved my idle issue, should I have had to bend the the rod a little?


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1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe
1951 WD, factory p.s.
1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale
2014 HD Tri Glide
2009 GMC CC SLT Dually


Posted By: Jeff(WC)(MI)
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2010 at 8:08pm
ok i played with it tonight...i sprayed all intake gaskets and no change so i don;t think an air leak....i throttled it up and then down with the lever on the quadrant...idle was about 950 rpm...I&T says 475-500 for idle....if i reach in and push on the idle limit screw on the back of the carb i can get it down to 7-800....but no further...i backed out the idle adjustment screw as far as it would go without falling out..and then pushed on it thinking it would idle down further...nothing...so that must either mean the butterfly is all the way closed at that point or the governor is limiting it from going any further...??  any thoughts or suggestions on where to go now?  i have a feeling inside the governor but thats foreign to me and do i have to take off the radiator and stuff to get in there?  looks like a tight fit from the front...thanks for any help guys


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2010 at 8:26pm
You should be able to override the governor and push the throttle plate more fully closed. Is the throttle plate turned right so it can close? If its turned over, it will not seal. Check the throttle shaft for leaks like you did the intake gaskets, including the carb to manifold gasket.

Gerald J.


Posted By: Dennis(IA)
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2010 at 8:31pm
You said that the carburetor was cleaned, was the throttle plate removed?  If it was, maybe it is not centered in the carb bore.  The throttle plate is also tappered, and can be installed upside down.  Anyway, to center the plate loosen the two screws and close the throttle plate all the way (idle speed screw backed all the way out) then tighten the screws.
Dennis


Posted By: Jeff(WC)(MI)
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2010 at 10:46pm
i did not take the throttle plate out when i cleaned and rebuilt...but thats not saying it wasn;t done before i got it...probably lots of hands in it since 1954.....so what you guys are saying is, if the idle adjustment is backed all the way out and i still cant push on it and make it idle down anymore it's gotta be the throttle plate?  i will take it off and check it out...will keep you posted
carb to manifold gasket was checked...but i didn;t check throttle shaft..i will do that before i take it off to check for throttle plate


Posted By: Jeff(WC)(MI)
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2010 at 6:18pm
well you guys were right...throttle plate didn't close all the way...took the plate out and looked at it close trying to figure out how to tell if it's upside down or not...there is a slight diaganol edge on both sides that make it seal fluch with the carb inner walls...flipped it right side up..installed screws...closed plate..tightened screws..installed carb..voila! i got it adjusted down to a smooth 510-520rpm!  now..when i take my finger off of the idle limit screw..it pops back to 1000rpm....i can hold it against the idle stop and get 510-520 but as soon as i let go..it pops back to 1000...where do i go next?  governor or linkages?   oh by the way throttle lever up by steering wheel is at 12oclock position while doing this


Posted By: Jeff(WC)(MI)
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2010 at 8:08pm
well i adjusted the linkage on the right hand side of the tractor from the governor arm back to the throttle pivot lever....i can get it from about 550 at idle to 1630 at full throttle...can;t quite get it down to 500 and up to 1750 like the manual says but would that be from worn linkages?  they are kindas sloppy in a few spots...also would that be the reason i can;t get smooth acceleration from the motor..if i ease the throttle up it gets so far and jumps from 550-about 900 or 1000 right away, then after that it's smooth most of the way up the throttle quadrant



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