XT went to the shop
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=148484
Printed Date: 11 Aug 2025 at 8:13pm
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Topic: XT went to the shop
Posted By: darrel in ND
Subject: XT went to the shop
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 4:52pm
| I hauled my one ninety XT up to a shop that a friend of mine runs, for an engine rebuild. I bought this XT I suppose about 10 to 12 years ago. The guy I bought it from said that the engine probably didn't have a thousand hours on a rebuild, done at an Allis turned Agco dealership. I suppose I had about 4 trouble free years with it; rock solid tractor, didn't touch a drop of oil, pulled like a locomotive. Then one day it dropped all of the anti freeze into the oil. I took it to a shop in town (since closed), and the guy pulled the oil pan. Put some water back in it, and found one of the liners leaking to beat hell. Pulled the head, and the leaking liner. Not a trace of an "O" ring on it. I still haven't figured that one out, because there had to have been "O" rings on it at the time of the overhaul. Anyway, we put new "O" rings on that liner, and put it back together. Got 4 or five more years out of it, but always had a touch of gray to the oil after that, but changed the oil a little more often than normal. Eventually, anti freeze in the oil got terrible again, and we knew an overhaul was inevitable. Doing one last little chore with it and a turbo seal must have went out, and blew all of the crankcase oil out the stack. Then she sat for a couple years, until now. Tired of living without that tractor. It's one of the most purposeful ones I have. Now, this may open a can of worms, but what y'all have for tips/advice/pointers on a 2900 rebuild. I am going to leave it up to the shop owner to get the kit from where he wants to, because it is his job, and he has to stand behind it, but there can be a few variables that I can throw in. First and foremost, I am going to put some information to good use that Mack has thrown out here a few times, and get an extra "O" ring groove cut in the liners, so I can put an extra coolant "O" ring on them, since it seems that was the smoking gun from the get-go. Now a new or re-built turbo is going to be necessary, so what do you all have the best of luck with when it comes to turbos...? Or isn't there much for choices out there..? Then, injector pump and injectors.....they were working fine right up to the end. Had good power and was a good starter. Does a person leave em alone, or send em to Ed for the "once over...? I think the guy that I bought it from had said the pump and injectors were done at the time he had it rebuilt. If they ain't broke, don't fix em....? Or may as well go all the way....? Not sure which. Any other advice from lessons learned the hard way that I can benefit from...? Thanks, Darrel |
Replies:
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 5:00pm
|
Definitely check and/or replace the cam bearings. If the pump and injectors were checked out recently, I would leave them. I got a new turbo from A&I for mine but haven't had the chance to try it out yet. Still putting the tractor back together. My engine and valve kit were Reliance brand. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 8:41pm
| If Ed doesn't do the inj's and pump now its darn likely your gonna have to do it ASAP. I did not do them on my D17 several years ago and I wish I had. |
Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 9:14pm
| I would not put it back together without at least checking the injectors. I have found with almost every engine I have been into the last 7 or 8 years that there were a minimum of 2 injectors leaking. In fact one engine had only about 1500 hours on it from when the injectors had been rebuilt...supposedly...I quit using that shop for another reason a few years ago. I would most likely get the pump rebuilt in your case as you don't know when it was done last. Unfortunately, at least here anyways, they are expensive to get rebuilt. The next ones I do will go to Ed. He helped me with information and trying to find parts for an engine I was into a few months ago. That made my mind up to send my business his way. |
Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 9:15pm
| The dealer I worked for always had pump and injectors done, if customer didn’t want them done, no warranty on engine work. He got burned once and said that’s enough. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 9:28pm
| Cam bearings are not real important on that engine. No oil pressure to them and rear one has no way to get oil. Others get oil that returned from rocker arms. mack |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 7:47am
| One thing about this tractor that is in-believable, is the batteries. When I bought it, the seller told me that one thing it may need soon, would be batteries. Never did have to change the batteries. Always started good right up until the day it died. Interstate Batteries. I am sure that after sitting for a couple years now, they'll be shot. But still, that's a long time for batteries to last. When the batteries get pulled, I am kind of anxious to see what the date is on them. Darrel |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 8:03am
|
The thought of not doing pump and injector work because "it was already done" kinda bites a lot of people these days. So, everything has been sitting around for a couple of years, with fuel that has gone sour in it. Now, we grab the pump and stick it on our fresh engine rebuild, and dang thing will not pump any fuel! Almost always find the pumping plungers will be stuck. Pump has to be torn completely down to clean everything up properly. The sad part is one comes to me in this scenario, guy has to have it right away. Well, it's not my fault it sat on a shelf for weeks while engine was being rebuilt lol! If pump and injectors were properly rebuilt as recently as you think, then it wouldn't cost as much to make everything fresh again for the fresh engine. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 8:06am
| I always used ("used to") use Interstate batteries in our vehicles that we use year around, but have had some bad luck with a couple of new ones lately. just replaced one with a new NAPA battery as the 5 year battery in one pickup was just over a year old when it died, and the warranty isn't good after just 1 year on them. then another died that was under a year old, replacement was better on that one, but was ina vehicle that was a real pain to change out in the cold! in the past I have had better luck with 1-2 year warranted batteries than with the 5 year warranted ones. |
Posted By: BKarpel
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 8:21am
| I would rebore the counter bores in the block and install a repair sleeve. Then push in new engine sleeves. Sounds like you block has some corrosion due to the antifreeze. A new or rebuild turbo would be fine. At least have the pump and injectors checked out. Ed does good work. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 8:27am
|
I can also supply a genuine Garrett new or reman turbo as well. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 8:38am
I have been buying Duracell batteries from Sam's Club 3 year 100% replacement 7 year over all guarantee.So far they have given me good service.Plus they cost less then most anywhere else. |
shameless dude wrote:Posted By: d21_man
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 8:42am
| Feel your pain. Bought a 200 a few years ago and it had roughly 400hrs. The guy told me the fuel pump had been rebuilt and they went through the radiator as well. Everything looked clean in the blow-by tube and oil cap, but I point blank asked him if it ever had antifreeze getting in the oil...he said no. They had quite a few allis tractors around there so I figured I could trust them. I probably only have 50 hours on the tractor from when I bought it, used it to bush hog and run a wood splitter. The first time I used it after about an hour of mowing noticed it wanting to load up a bit then it would smooth out and run fine. Pulled all the injectors and had then checked/rebuilt. Still did the same thing. Noticed it starting to use antifreeze and found it in the bottom of the oil pan. After looking the block over real good I even think it may have been welded on behind the oil cooler elbow. Guess you just can't trust guys to tell you the truth anymore. |
Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 10:33am
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I would check for cracks in the block between the cylinder bores. I had that problem on my 190XT when I got it. I found the problem on the second tear down. Water in the oil will make the bearings look like you beat them with a hammer. ------------- 1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 11:16am
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Darrel, let us know what the mechanic finds on the other 5 sleeves,o rings or not. Scott ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: tadams(OH)
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 2:02pm
|
I wouldn't take a chance on the pump & injectors, I would send them to Ed to be safe after spending the money to rebuild everything else. tom
|
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 10:13pm
| thanks Gary, i'll check them out! |
Posted By: KJCHRIS
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 11:33pm
|
IF you do not trust the shop you took it to do it correctly, why did you take it to them??? You know that coolant has gotten to oil pan, let them assess how it got there. Your fuel injection system has not been checked for over 5 years so the pump and injectors need to be checked and re-conditioned as needed. Cylinder head, block, crankshaft, and other internal components will need to be checked during tear down. If you brought it to me and started asking this many questions I'd tell you to take the S O B home and charge you for the aggravation. Yes, I know I'm a Butthole to deal with, but have had very few repairs comeback to be redone.. Have a good day, KJCHRIS. ------------- AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B, |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2018 at 8:23am
The guy at this shop happens to be a very good friend of mine, and I fully trust him with this engine rebuild. The first item I discussed, and it wasn't even really a question, was in reference to the extra O ring groove being cut into the sleeve. Me and this shop owner discussed doing this procedure on 301's long before my engine ever even lunched out. So I hardly think that undermined his competence. Question about the pump and injectors; well that was a question that I pretty well knew the answer to before I asked. Probably shouldn't have brought that one up. About the turbo, is it so out of line to ask folks who are out in the field using the tractors if they've had good luck or bad luck with any particular brand/rebuilt turbo. I mean, if the guy rebuilding my engine said to me that he's using this one particular turbo, because he knows that's the best way to go, that's what would be going on it. But there has been discussion on this board before on the good, bad, and the ugly on turbos, and once again, I don't think that harvesting a little information on turbos is undermining his competence. I used to work with the guy that now owns the shop doing my rebuild, and have a good working relationship with him. I told him, that it's his shop; his baby. He does work on every brand of tractor out there, though, and as we all know each and every different brand does have a few unique characteristics. It is possible that someone on the forum here may know something from experience, that maybe he has never come across. Not saying that he'd do it wrong, but if one little tidbit of info would improve the rebuild, I think I can suggest it without upsetting the apple cart. I am not going up to his shop and looking over his shoulder every second that he's going to be working on it. So far, what I've told him is that I want the extra O ring groove cut in the sleeve. Since we had that discussion before, that wasn't an issue. Then I told him, that if it was alright with him, I'd like to send the pump and injectors to Ed. He was very happy about that, because he's had piss poor luck with a local pump shop (which I already knew), and wants to make sure that job gets done right. Outside of that, I told him, call me when it's done, but if there are any issues that come up that you need to discuss with me, or want my input on, call me. I am in no way, shape, or form shoving anything down his throat. Darrel |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2018 at 10:58am
|
KJCHRIS, The more I think about your response, the more f***ing pissed off I'm getting. You say, "I am asking ALL these questions." I asked very few questions, and mostly just stated some information about the nature of the beast. Any time there is a deal between a customer and a service provider, a little rational discussion between the two is going to take place, and that doesn't mean that the customer is doubting the service provider's ability. If I call a plumber to my house to fix a leaky faucet, and I ask him what's the difference in price between fixing the old faucet, and just putting in a new faucet, is he supposed to get pissed, charge me for the service call, and leave without fixing anything? If a carpenter comes to put in a new window, and I tell him I want oak trim, is he supposed to pack up and leave because he thought it should have mahogany? I wish now that I could just wipe this whole thread away, because evidently it gave you an impression of me that I don't like, and I don't think has any merit. I don't believe that this shop owner has ever wished that he could lock the door when he sees me coming. You talk about me being "supposed to let him figure out where the water is leaking from, and address it himself." Even though I did bring up the water in the oil issue on here, and I did tell him that it was getting water in the oil, he was the one that told ME that he would look everything over and make sure that he knows that he is at the root of that problem. And as far as the extra O ring groove in the sleeve; no he wouldn't have to do that, but he is open minded enough to take a piece of advice from an expert. (Not me in this case, but Mack, here on the forum, who has had more Allis experience than my friend will ever have. I was just the middle man, relaying the information). As far as the pump and injectors go, I know for a fact, that when my man got to them, he'd have called me anyway, and asked me what I wanted to do with them. If he didn't like my answer, he would then give me his recommendation, we would have some rational discussion, and do what's best. If I insisted on something that he is not comfortable with, then maybe things would head south in a hurry. But I wouldn't do that. About the only discussion there, was where to take them to, and he is fine with Ed, because of some of the luck he had locally with pump shops. Same with the turbo. I have been on the other side of the fence, as well, having worked in the shop for 14 years at an implement dealership. Granted, I never did an engine overhaul on a piece of farm equipment, but I damn sure did a lot of work on equipment otherwise, especially Gleaner combines. Now if a customer brought a combine in, and wanted it "gone through", the shop foreman would send the customer back to talk to me about a game plan, and sometimes we could spend a couple hours discussing what to fix and what not to fix. Some things that would come into play, would be things such as "how long do you plan on keeping this machine?" "Do you want to use all genuine Gleaner parts, and have us stand behind them, or use cheap aftermarket parts and be on your own?" I'd have to say that perhaps a few customers who barely knew what end of the combine the header went on, were aggravating when they were in every day questioning me, but I was always willing to rationally discuss any repair with a customer that had a good understanding of the piece of equipment I was working on. I like to think that I am the latter of the two. Darrel |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2018 at 11:02am
Not that there's anything wrong wit the rest of this post, but this here is EXACTLY what I was thinking!
|
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2018 at 12:10pm
| Don't worry Darrel, I didn't think you were asking much. More just sharing your pain as many people on here do. Some people take things the wrong way. |
Posted By: skateboarder68
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2018 at 2:43pm
|
Don't get too worked up Darrell, he said he's a butthole. The 1st step to not being a di#khead is admitting he is one! 😂 ------------- Orange & Silver still earnin their keep on the farm: R62, Series IV D17 nf, 185, 6080, 6080 fwa, 220, 1968 D21, 7045, DT240. |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 7:16am
| I would have asked those same questions if I was in your position Darrell. It takes good communication to get the project done right. Don’t worry about it. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 8:35am
| Hang in there Darrell, you did the right things. MACK |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 9:58am
|
"If you brought it to me and started asking this many questions I'd tell you to take the S O B home and charge you for the aggravation." I can't stand rejection, and really hate paying to aggravate someone. Thanks for letting me know Darrell. Elliott ------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 10:34am
| you never know what questions really unvailed what realley happened and where to look first even if it was several years ago , if there is a problem with a paticular engine sleave o rings i probley would not know that unless i had sean a service bulitan on it, so if it was brought to my attention i would want to research it |
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 8:19am
If my wife charged me every time I aggravated her I'd be flat broke. ------------- '49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2 |
Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 9:32am
|
WOW,,Mr. Darrel,,,I'm kinda getting a feelin that you might be close to getting pizzed,,,,  But,,I am in your cawnor,,,,  'sides,,,,it IS Sunday,,OK,??When anybody stands to spend as much hard earned money such as you fixin to on this overhaul,,,you oughta be able to ask all the questions you NEED to get answered,,!! 'sides thet guy prolly ain't got time to work on AC's,,,him be workin on them J Deeres,,,, 
|
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 12:40pm
| How's the tractor coming along Darrel? |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 1:27pm
I have to stop by the shop where it's at today, and pick up the pump and injectors, so I can send them to injEd. I'll probably get a look at the engine, if he has it tore down. Maybe have a report on it tonight. Darrel |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 1:37pm
| hide yer billfold and check book before you walk in! |
Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 5:17pm
|
Yes Darrel, you are going to be spending some big money. But we all know what a fairly new 90 horse tractor costs. Ed has got my pump and injectors right now for my 7000. Your going to enjoy field work this summer on that XT. Tim ------------- 1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207 |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 6:46pm
|
Well, I picked up the pump and injectors today, and just finished packaging them up. I'll send them off to Ed in the morning. Not sure yet what all is going on deep within yet; he didn't have the engine tore down that far yet. I've been stewing over this project for about two years now; whether to do it, or not to. I know I'll get a lot of money into it. I really love this tractor, and have been missing it since the engine went down on it. Thought about knocking it in the head, and moving onto something else, but the rest of the tractor is in nice shape. Wish it had three point, dual PTO, and hydraulic PTO clutch, but it will work for 95% of what I need it for anyhow. So, I decided to bite the bullet, and do it. If I keep it until I die, it won't seem so bad. Kind of like a pickup I bought and rebuilt 30+ years ago. I cried about how much I stuck into it, but now when I divide that amount by how many years I've had it (I still have it), it doesn't come out to much per year. Darrel |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 1:34am
| yep....and who's to say if you buy a different one, that it wouldn't need the same thing? |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 11:10am
| Got a call from the shop yesterday evening. He sent the head to a machine shop. Said that the head alone was going to set me back $1,400. Told me that who ever did the machine work on the head previously (before I owned it), had made a few mistakes that are costing me now. Also, when he was pulling sleeves, the O rings on them were not even all installed the same; same colored O rings were not all in the same position. Must have been a rocket scientist working on it. Hope when she gets all said and done, she'll work good and last a long time. Darrel |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 11:34am
|
O ring thing blows my mind, but that don't take much sometimes. Sounds like you got things going your way, good luck and I hope it's everything you expected when finished. Look at the bright side ,your thick wallet won't be a problem while in the seat of that fresh 190. Hope all goes well. Scott ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 3:44pm
| yep....i'm thunking that that tractor is gonna be good for another 50 years or so! |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 4:05pm
|
$1400 sounds like a heck of a lot for a 301 head. It's such a common engine. I'd look around for a used one. |
Posted By: chuck
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 5:28pm
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 6:08pm
| I've never priced one before. Certainly not going to put a used one on it that I don't know any history on. The shop rebuilding my engine says they've been using this machine shop for a while now, and has gotten nothing but top notch work out of them. Said that everything in the head will be new. I am open to better suggestions. I'm not thrilled about the 1,400 bucks, but I want it done right. Darrel |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 6:25pm
|
A fella I know needs a head for his 7020, used one is $2,200. Apparently the heads with brass inserts tend to crack worse. That’s a lot of money but compared to the 7020 it doesn’t sound so bad. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: chuck
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 6:42pm
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 8:28pm
|
I have several used heads here. If they were checked, I would sell you one for almost nothing. Cannot think what they are going to do that would cost 1400.00. On second thought, come down and I will give you a used head. MACK |
Posted By: im4racin
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2018 at 10:34pm
| I think what you are missing is he said that the machine shop is fixing the sins of the previous owners repairs. I regret to inform this message board that there are just not that many people in this part of the country and that makes used parts more scarce. If he has a good rebuild able core then that might be the one to use. How much would it cost to ship a head across the country? Will it go ups or will it have to come truck? Will they deliver 50 miles from the dock to his farm? Things are different out here. I might agree with him on using the one he currently has. |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 6:21am
|
Spoken like a true North Dakotan. ------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 7:16am
|
The 1,400 head issue has raised more eyebrows than I expected, and I do sincerely appreciate all of the responses. Dennis (that's the name of the shop owner and is the guy doing the engine rebuild) is a good friend, and I trust him fully, even though I got accused of "not trusting him" early on in this thread. LOL. But anyhow, he sent the head to the machine shop that he has good faith in, because he gets work back from them that does not fail, thus costing him money and grief. When Dennis called me the other night to tell me about the all of the head issues, I was a little shocked at the price. He said that one of the "smoking guns" was a previous poor job of valve knurling that had been done. Now I am not a machinist, but have a pretty good grip on all of the components of the head, and when a machinist tells me what he's going to do, I understand it. But I don't have a 301 head rebuilt every day of the week, in fact this is my first one, so I didn't have much to compare it to. I am not sure what all is replaceable in this head; two things that jump out at me that I remember him saying, were "all new valves, and valve guides." I'm thinking that he said valve seats, too, but I could be wrong on that. But, basically, It would be pretty much a new head when done. Dennis called me Thursday evening, and I gave him the "go ahead" on it, purely out of trusting him, and no research. I kind of wish now, that maybe I would have told him that I'd think about it and research my options over the weekend. I probably could still back out on it, but I don't like to operate that way, especially if the machine shop already has parts ordered. I sort of think though, that even if I had all weekend to consider things, I may have had the same out come. Mack's offer does sound fantastic; not sure if he's giving me a head that's all ready to bolt on, or if it has to go in for a looking over as well. I know that with a few phone calls, I could have found some used 301 heads, that probably would have, but possibly would not have been, in better shape then mine. But by the time I would have ran around the country side to gather em up, and then have the machine shop give an estimate on them, too, I would have had a lot into that, plus an aggravated machinist. And supposing that I found one that didn't take too much work, because all wear items were "within specs," is that what I really want? Honestly, not really. Why.....? Because I've been stewing on this project for roughly two years. Money is not in abundance around here, and a philosophy that I try to adhere to is: "If you don't have the time and money to do it right, when are you going to have the time and money to do it over...?" Over the last two years, I was tempted several times, to dig into this engine, and fix just enough to make it useful again on a bare bones budget. Probably could have done it, and be using it again already now. Call it a strange form of OCC or what you will, but I really don't think that I would be "sitting as tall in the seat" with something that is done to "get by with", as I will be with something done as close to 100 % right as it can be. This engine rebuild is probably one of the very few projects of this caliper that I'll have done in a while. Like I said, money is tight. Have 100 other allis projects around here that could and should be done. I chose this one, because I love this tractor, and it is one of the most purposeful tractors I have on the place. Win, win situation. Do necessary farm chores with it, and wear a grin while doing them. I guess, all in all, about what I've accomplished with this post, is that I've talked myself into believing that I made the right decision on the head. Truthfully, if there was such thing available as a NOS head for it, that was ready to bolt on and didn't take a winning lottery ticket to acquire, that's the route I'd have went. If it wasn't one of my favorite Allis's, and wasn't a "once in a lifetime project" for me, well then I would have been cutting corners, and said no way to the head cost. But to satisfy my OCC, this project requires new, rather than "within specs". Over the years that I've owned this tractor, I've been fixing a lot of other little mechanical and cosmetic things on it, little by little, and I sincerely hope to get a fresh coat of paint, and new decals on it before the newness of the engine wears off. If'n I get to that point, I think that I'll be glad I didn't spare any expense on the head, even though it kind of bites hard now. Darrel |
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 11:26am
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Darrel, some many years ago, I went to the Allis dealer and asked for new valves and expected valves in Agco or allis/duetz boxes... what I got instead was tisco boxes... So I took them and put them in my One-Seventy... guides weren't the best and ground the seats that were in it. I didn't have time to drop the pan and push the pistons out and re-ring it at the time, that was about 13 years ago... Fast forward, now the engine is far tireder, leaks oil out of the seals and smokes and ... now one of them tisco valves are leaking on the ex. The engine is truly in a need of down time and a complete overhaul, to cure the bazillion hours it has on it. And I too would like to have this engine done right, with the best guides there are to be put in and quality valves... and an engine balancing too... Have used this tractor for 45 years and I could slap a new set of bearings and possibly just rering it, (got new pistons and sleeves for it) and go through the valves again and out last me, But I want it to be good for another 45 or more... For it to be still useful long after I am gone. ------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2018 at 3:17pm
| The seats are probably all ground too deep and need replaced.It's amazing how much compression one loses that way. Makes em hart starting. The idiot that did the seats on my 8070(prior to my purchase) put new seats in but didn't grind them deep enough. Had slight valve marks in top of 2 pistons when I had it overhauled.Things definitely need done right when dealing with AC. Sounds like that's what you'll get,even though a little pricey.March on.... |