| D-15 Engine
 
 Printed From: Unofficial Allis
 Category:  Allis Chalmers
 Forum Name:  Farm Equipment
 Forum Description:  everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
 URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=147053
 Printed Date: 30 Oct 2025 at 7:57pm
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 Topic: D-15 Engine
 Posted By: ACinSC
 Subject: D-15 Engine
 Date Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 3:14pm
 
 
        
          | Checked the compression on my non-running D-15 today . First 3 cylinders were 60-70 max , last one was 160 . Bought this tractor with the oil pan and starter pulled off . Seller said the motor was locked up . Any advice ? It's a Series one . Serial #D15 2595 .              THANKS !! 
 
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 Replies:
 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 4:20pm
 
 
        
          | Forgot to say this is a gas D 15 |  
 Posted By: DSeries4
 Date Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 4:44pm
 
 
        
          | 60 to 70 is real low.  Rebuild it.  Kits for the 149 are readily available for a decent price. 
 
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 '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185,  '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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 Posted By: Acdiesel
 Date Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 8:37pm
 
 
        
          | probably needs a rebuild, you could look in the spark plug holes at the cylinder walls before you take it down, if you know some one with a scope camera or shine a flash light down there,but that doesn't work as well. could just need some valve work. just some more things to think about. 
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 D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3
 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF
 D15 SER.2 DIESEL
 D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II
 2-720'S  D21 Ser. II
 
 Gmc,caterpillar
 I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger)
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 Posted By: MACK
 Date Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 9:36pm
 
 
        
          | Check head gasket first. Advanced timing will get head gasket on them motors.    MACK |  
 Posted By: DanWi
 Date Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 9:51pm
 
 
        
          | Is it possible valve aren't shutting on the three cylinders with low compression or if it has been sitting put some oil in the cylinders to help compression. |  
 Posted By: CrestonM
 Date Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 10:18pm
 
 
        
          | Yep, I'd do a wet compression test first. If numbers don't go up, you've got valve issues. |  
 Posted By: LeonR2013
 Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 4:52am
 
 
        
          | Could be the rings are stuck. If you can get something in there that will loosen them up also, would be a help. |  
 Posted By: Gary Burnett
 Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 5:27am
 
 
        
          | I'd try to get it running for awhile and see how it runs,if it smokes etc.The rings might just be stuck a little and running will usually break them loose plus by running it you'll find out things like whats the oil pressure and such.Tearing into the motor is the last thing to do not the first. 
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 Posted By: dt1050
 Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 5:47am
 
 
        
          | I used some diesle fuel and pb blaster mix to get my d17 unstuck. 
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 Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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 Posted By: Fred in Pa
 Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 6:59am
 
 
        
          | I would do a leak down test 
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 He who dies with the most toys is,
 nonetheless ,still dead.
 If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
 
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 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 7:37am
 
 
        
          | THANKS for all the replies . Should've also said that none of the cylinders will hold any pressure . I'll squirt some oil in each cylinder and re-test . |  
 Posted By: DrAllis
 Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 7:52am
 
 
        
          | New pistons and sleeves and grind the valves and seats. You can test all you want but you are going to tear it down for an overhaul. |  
 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 8:07am
 
 
        
          | Not sure what to do . I'd hate to sink $2,000 in a engine rebuild only to discover the drive train is junk . All I know for sure is that the brakes work . |  
 Posted By: Gary Burnett
 Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 8:17am
 
 
        
          | |  ACinSC wrote: 
 Not sure what to do . I'd hate to sink $2,000 in a engine rebuild only to discover the drive train is junk . All I know for sure is that the brakes work .
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 Exactly why I'd try to get it running no matter how bad it runs at least you can check out
 everything else to see if its worth working on.
 
 
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 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 02 Feb 2018 at 7:38am
 
 
        
          | I like your thinking Gary . One of the ignition wires is broken so I may replace all the wires , plugs , cap , etc . THANKS !! |  
 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 2:03pm
 
 
        
          | Hard to believe , but my son and I got this D 15 running today . I drove it around the yard a few minutes and it quit . Got it back in the shop and got the motor started again . It will run a couple minutes and quit . If it sits 5 mins it'll start and run again for a couple mins . Gonna pull the fuel line and see if I can figure out what's going on . We have gas at the carb but it's sure not a strong stream . Should say I replaced the plugs , wires , cap , rotor , points and cond . THANKS B and B . Any advice is welcome . |  
 Posted By: dt1050
 Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 2:05pm
 
 
        
          | is it vapor locking? try running it with out the gas cap on. could also be a coil, next time it shuts off check for spark. 
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 Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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 Posted By: WF owner
 Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 3:22pm
 
 
        
          | It sounds (to me) to be a fuel problem. Sounds like it burns the fuel out of the carb bowl, then quits. Have you tried removing the sediment bowl and cleaning the passages out?   Personally, I would make sure to have really good fuel flow before spending money on other parts. |  
 Posted By: CrestonM
 Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 3:43pm
 
 
        
          | Yep, I had that same problem with a tractor once...start and run for a couple minutes, then quit. Start again, same thing. Got it limped back to the house, blew the line out, and that fixed the problem until I had time to clean the tank. |  
 Posted By: jaybmiller
 Date Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 4:24pm
 
 
        
          | bet we've all been there... tear sediment bowl of tank, flush tank out REAL good. I fill with water ,let it 'pee' out 2-3 times then use compressed air to blow dry, swish  winter squirter fluid in(have lots) ,drain then clean sediment bowl and line with carb cleaner. Put 2-3 gallons of FRESH gas in ,see how it pours out at carb connection. It should be see through clean. NOW connect to carb and try again.
 Jay
 
 
 
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 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
 
 Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 2:15pm
 
 
        
          | Put a new sediment bowl I had on today . Old one was gunked up . Now the fuel line won't line up to the new bowl . NAPA has some bendable polymor/ steel brake/fuel lines . Anyone used them ? I'm not thinking a rubber hose would be safe solution ? |  
 Posted By: CrestonM
 Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 2:30pm
 
 
        
          | Personally I'd never use rubber. I've always used copper or steel. Rubber just sounds risky to me. Plus, I think it looks much cleaner with a properly routed copper or steel line. |  
 Posted By: jaybmiller
 Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 3:09pm
 
 
        
          | hmm I've always been able to 'tweak' the steel line on my D-14s..so I'm thinking you should be able to. Be sure to quite brake cleaner  through it though, its probably gummed up to. Heck, maybe a new line(metal), $10-$15 ?, cheap investment . 
 jay
 
 
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 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
 
 Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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 Posted By: DrAllis
 Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 3:21pm
 
 
        
          | D-15's had a rubber fuel line from the factory on series 2's. |  
 Posted By: DrAllis
 Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 4:08pm
 
 
        
          | I just checked....both S1 and S2 had the rubber fuel line from factory. |  
 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 1:47pm
 
 
        
          | Tweaked my sediment bowl and the metal fuel line this morn . Took a while but I finally got everything lined up and put together . Tractor fired up and ran until I turned the key off . One problem solved , I'm sure I'll be back soon with another . THANKS !! |  
 Posted By: jaybmiller
 Date Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 1:59pm
 
 
        
          | NICE I like to hear someone's having a good day !! I slid on some shiny, slippery,ICY Shamless 'donation' today, yanked my arm( right  of course) and now it's hurting..along with elbow and wrist.  Sure glad there's 35days until Spring ...maybe I'll heal by then ??
 
 
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 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
 
 Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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 Posted By: AC720Man
 Date Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 8:09pm
 
 
        
          | How did it run? Smoke? I’m sure everyone knows about Seafoam. I highly suggest it. Put it in the fuel and in the crank case. It does an excellent job of cleaning fuel systems, valves, and stuck rings. You wont believe the color of the oil when you drain it. Black as can be. Run it at least 15 minutes or longer. Change oil and add more Seafoam. Depending on the severity of grim it may take several changes to clean the gunk out. I had an engine that blew blue smoke so bad I couldn’t see the front of my shop when I finally got it running. 3 oil/filter changes later, 1 hr run time total she was and is still smoke free to this day. Compression went from 82 psi to over 135. 2 cylinder Onan. I highly recommend the product. Use it regularly in my fuel tanks, keeps O2 sensors clean as well as injectors or carbs.
 
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 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 1:48pm
 
 
        
          | It runs pretty well for a "locked up" motor . Hafta run it with the choke partly closed . I'm sure the carb needs attention . Soon as I get a lip put on what's left of the battery tray I'm gonna run it thru all the gears . It doesn't smoke much at all . Always heard sea foam was good stuff . THANKS !! |  
 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 7:35pm
 
 
        
          | Pulled the gas tank off today . Once I fish what's left of the fuel gauge float out I'm gonna clean the inside of the tank . Anyone have any advice to share ? THANKS !! |  
 Posted By: ACinSC
 Date Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 5:58pm
 
 
        
          | Put the gas tank on today and drove around 10 mins or so . Everything seems to work fairly well , even the Hi/Lo . Did notice when I tried to take off in 4th gear the tractor barely moved and then stopped while still in gear . I'm thinking a worn out clutch . Sound about right ? THANKS !! |  
 
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