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WD gauge pod?

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=146367
Printed Date: 24 Aug 2025 at 8:51pm
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Topic: WD gauge pod?
Posted By: Matt Tallant
Subject: WD gauge pod?
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 7:17pm
Does the backside of it need to be bare metal for a good ground?Or can it be painted like the outside?Didnt know if key switch and light switch needs a good ground FYI I am using original switches.TIA,Matt



Replies:
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 8:02pm
Yes it must be grounded. See last comment above for a WD45 with starting problems.


Posted By: RickM(MO)
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 8:10pm
X2 on the ground being required.  Also there should be a hole in the bottom left corner of the pod for a sheet metal screw to ground the pod to the battery box.

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Missouri Allis Chalmers Club Member; 1954 WD45 (NF), 611LTD & 811GT Lawn Tractors


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 8:54pm
If you ground the switch and gauges in the box by using a wire that goes to a KNOWN good ground, you can paint the box and not have to worry about it.
I do that to ALL mine as it is the best way to ensure a good ground.  You really can't trust a bolt going through this piece of metal to a spot on the tractor, from which a wire MIGHT be going to the ground on the battery cable.........see what I mean.  If you use a wire directly from a light switch or the gauges or the starter switch, etc.  Then you never have to worry other than ONE place......where it grounds to the battery.  Doesn't matter whether it's a positive or a negative ground.
Extra cost of extra wire........oh my, could probably get up to around $5.00.  I'd say pretty dang cheap to do it right.


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 7:16am
I'm not sure what I'm missing, but mine Is all painted nice with no ground. My only ground wire on the whole traction is form the battery to the frame. The only gauge in my pod in the ammeter and it really only has an "in" and "out" between the battery and electrical devices. No ground
I have a toggle (kill) switch in there too, but it only connects or disconnects power from the coil. No ground needed there either.
 
What are we trying to ground here?


Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 7:22am
Originally posted by Allis dave Allis dave wrote:

I'm not sure what I'm missing, but mine Is all painted nice with no ground. My only ground wire on the whole traction is form the battery to the frame. The only gauge in my pod in the ammeter and it really only has an "in" and "out" between the battery and electrical devices. No ground
I have a toggle (kill) switch in there too, but it only connects or disconnects power from the coil. No ground needed there either.
 
What are we trying to ground here?
If you are using the OEM-type generator that uses the light switch to control the charge rate, you must ground the box. The resistor in the switch goes to ground. If you've converted to an alternator and are using an ammeter, it probably doesn't matter.
 


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 7:25am
As far as I know, the only thing that NEEDS grounded from the box, is the 3 position light switch. If it is not grounded, you won't have the high charge rate when you pull it out.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 7:37am
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

As far as I know, the only thing that NEEDS grounded from the box, is the 3 position light switch. If it is not grounded, you won't have the high charge rate when you pull it out.
 
That makes sense. I've switched to an alternator and don't have the 3-position switch anymore.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 8:11am
Not sure why, but Doug's post wasn't showing when I started typing. I MUST be a SLOW typer Wink


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 12:15pm
You need the ground for the generator and the kill switch that grounds the magneto...
  and when converting to alternator, the old 3 position switch can be reconfigured to off/on/+aux lighting at the all the way out position. Such as off, on front lights, then front and back lights, or second set of lights.


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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."



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