Still working on getting it started, seller said it ran earlier this summer, but who knows if that's true or not.  I'm sure I'll have more questions, but thank you in advance.  I've already learned a lot on this site.

Just a little info, 

The serial number will start with a  WD and then the numbers. 

It's located just below the left rear brake spring hole on the very back.  

I wouldn't worry about the plate missing right now. 

It did have a purpose but I have forgotten what it was unless it had something to do with running a vacuum pump, but I may be thinking of a nipple that was piped into it to hook a hose to. 

I have the same setup here on my WD, but I don't milk cows neither, like I grew up doing. 

Neither one of them seem to start with WD and it's entirely possible that it's a mishmash of different parts, hence my questions.

But, I'd still look under the left rear brake spring hole for verification. 

My number is this: WD190615. 

If you don't have a "WD" in front of that number, at that location, then I'd say that there's been a swap along the line somewhere with a newer rear end. 

I only say this as you noted getting the number off of the axle vs. the location o fmost all of the WD's. 

The early ones had it stamped beside the left brake cover on top to the inside(or right side) of the cover. 

The right side of the engine corresponds with a WD45, based on that and the s/n under the rear brake spring hole, I was under the impression that I had a 1954 WD45.  The dual fuel maninfold, coupled with the lack of dual gas tanks, leads me to believe that I have mishmash.  Also since neither of the s/n seem to match the standard formats, I'm wonder what I really have, hence my questions here.

I'm in the Columbus area, so about an hour East of Coffeeville.

Here's another pic of the location of the s/n that doesn't start with WD.  The engine s/n 45-23124-G is located by the carb and doen't have FK or FG after the 45, like page 16 of the operators manual gives as an example.

Sorry for all the dumb questions and thank you again.

Hmm, I wonder if the "WD" is filled in with paint that's before the number. 

Like Lonn said, Run it as is and use non ethanol gas if you can.

You'll be fine. 

I don't think that you have a mishmash. 

It's just the normal build for the operations on a farm at the time. 

And he had a seed dealer there around Columbus that he delivered to. 

As a matter of fact, his area went 3 counties up the east side of the state! 

like others have said, good clean regular gas will be fine

Stan, thank you for the image resizer info, here's my first attempt at using it and more questions:

What is the silver button on the electrical box?  I can't find it in the operator manual.

What is the lever for?  I can't find it in the operator manual.

More parts that came with the tractor, any ideas what they are?  An extra drawbar and ???

Again thank you for all of your assistance I really appreciate your putting up with a bunch of newbie questions!

The silver button looks like a a starter button.Turn the key on and push it. 

Originally, the two loop rings under the quadrant were the starter and choke. Just pull back on the right one and engage the starter. Left one is the choke- just a quick pull shut and push open movement is all it takes, if that, to start it. 

The handle is a hand clutch. Put the transmission in gear and pull the handle back to engage the hand clutch to make the tractor move on the ground. This can be slipped all you want as it runs in oil and was designed that way for the implements of the day like a round hay baler. 

The spring is a snap coupler bell spring that helps keep the drawbar or other implement eye attached underneath the tractor. 

This also helps "feel" the draft on the drawbar or other implement attached and hooked to the traction booster. 

The arms are implement arms and look like they go to a blade. 

And the last pic is of the snap coupler latches and the pto shaft. 

The 90* plate appears to fasten to the tractor to accept a pto shield with the slot in it. 

Although, the wide step plate that comes with the tractor had one on them , and yours has it. 

So, it's a guess as to what it's for. 

Someone else can chime in on that. 

Tom

Tom, thank you as well, based on the following picture, I assume I've got a standard generator:

I'll have to take the electrical box apart and see what if anything the switch is connected to.  I missed the different brake pedals!  Thanks again to everyone for chiming in and your patience with a newbie.

there's a lot of us other learners who gain a lot by following your string here.

so... thanks to you as well for sharing your adventure.

Jim here's a better picture of the stuff in the picture with the snap coupler bell spring:

So other than the snap coupler bell spring and snap couplers, what am I missing to use a snap coupler?  My main initial use is to add a shredder/mower to cut  the trails through my woods.  Would I be better off with 3-point or a snap coupler shredder/mower?  All of my experience has been with 3-points.  How hard is it to find snap coupler equipment and how is it's price compare to 3-point?

Again, thank ALL of you for your time and patience.

the "hand" clutch you have circled in one of the pictures is called the transmission clutch in the owner manual, it provides 'live' PTO, ie, you can slow or stop the tractor forward motion without stopping the PTO

the handle for the hand clutch will really help when mowing hay, if the tractor starts to bog down in the thick stuff, just push the lever foreward, the tractor stops but the pto keeps turning. my wd45 was a mix match, had a leyland front end, psteering from a combine cylinder and a psteering pump from a chevy truck, etc. but worked great.

don't worry about asking a bunch of questions, the folks on here are great and they realize not everbody grew up on these machines. they are always willing to help with an Allis, heck I've even seen them respond to posts for green tractors.  good luck, dt

Gerald, thank you, I'll give that a try, I never much cared for that technical stuff ;-)

fixer1958, thank you, nothing happened when I pushed the button so if it's the eject button, it isn't working.

Michael, thank you, I appreciate knowing that the seat has been changed, I'll probably just put a cover on it.  The label on the generator says 12 volt, there appears to be a regulator mounted on the front of the battery box.  I'm still getting my mind around the hand clutch, I appreciate the description, just seems odd.

Sugarmaker, thank you for chiming in on the "drawbar," I'll investigate the silver button further and I'll probably investigate purchasing a 3-point once I make sure I get it started and everything works.

Don, thank you for the information, that helps my understanding of exactly what I have a lot.

dt1050, thank you for explaining which way to move the hand clutch.

Ted, WOW, thank you for the link, I need to pour over that for awhile, it will help a lot!

I can't say thank you enough for all or or time and assistance.

the one thing I've found working on these old machines ya just never know what somebody has done to them in the last 50 years.

look for stuff like that once ya get tearing into it, correct it before your in the field trying to get hay in before the rain..