D17 Injection pump removal help???
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=143985
Printed Date: 27 Nov 2024 at 1:46am
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Topic: D17 Injection pump removal help???
Posted By: Massey65
Subject: D17 Injection pump removal help???
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 8:17am
| I recently purchased a D17 Diesel and the injection pump needs to be rebuilt. It is a 1958 model. Can someone please tell me how to do this. I just need the procedure for the removal. Thanks for your help. I finally got one of the tractors I have always wanted in my collection and it is pretty. |
Replies:
Posted By: calico190xt68
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 8:40am
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These are Dr. Allis instructions and I just recently used them, however, I used them on a 190XT so there might be some variation. D17 appears to be a Roosa which is what I had. I also found I had to remove my oil lines and I used a hinged, ratchet box wrench to remove the back side of the fuel lines and to retighten. Make sure you keep track of your washers as they are easy to lose when reinstalling the pump. Getting the injection pump back in "time" is very easy, if you follow these directions. There are two studs with 3/8" nuts that attach the pump to the engines front plate. Make a light chisel mark or scribe a line on the mounting flange of the pump and the engine front plate. This mark will insure that you know EXACTLY where the injection pump was positioned before you removed it. The pump body can be rotated on these two studs for small timing corrections...MARK IT, TO KNOW WHERE IT IS. Once you have done this, you can remove the timing window to drain the fuel, disconnect all the linkage and the six banjo connection bolts and fuel supply and return lines. The injector lines and their rubber clamps will need to be loosened ( or removed) to be able to spread the lines apart from the pump to allow the pump to be pulled rearward about 3 inches. There is one large engine oil line that may have to be removed to gain more room and will need two new rubber sleeves on it when reassembling. Pull the pump to the rear and tip it out and there you have it. Now, notice the end of the pumps driving shaft. It has a flat driving tang. On one side there is a "dot". Look inside the pump and see the drive socket.....there is also a "dot". When reassembling, you have two things to make happen......... "dot" to "dot" on the drive shaft and drive socket and "scribe line to scribe line" on the pump mounting studs. That puts it exactly back where is has been for the last 20 or 30 years. If you choose to get a different pump, this method doesn't work very well. Don't use a felt tip pen...SCRIBE THE MARKS. Personally, I never remove the large engine oil line, I remove the end cap of the injection pump to gain more clearance, and also remove it and replace it when re-installing the pump. I do my own pump repair work, so this is no big deal. Clean, clean, clean is the word of the day. When reassembling, get the pump mounted with the 3/8" stud nuts left slightly loose, so the pump can rotate back and forth. Get all six of the injector line banjo bolts started back in their respective holes and just snug, and then correctly rotate and position the pump and tighten the 3/8" nuts. Be very careful to not roll the rubber seal lip when installing the pump. Use light penetrating oil on the seal and pump bushing and tuck the rubber seal into place with a cotter pin puller or a strategically shaped piece of coat hanger wire that is not sharp on the end. Have fun !!! ------------- 80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 8:46am
| Remove timing window on side of pump (2 screws) rotate engine until both lines inside pump lines up. Remove all lines, linkage and any thing that is behind pump keeping it from sliding back about three inches. Remove the two mount bolts and slide pump back. MACK |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 8:59am
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Like Mack said above, plus while pump is off being serviced, make sure engine does not get turned. Upon re-installation, the proper timing can be set at that time. Could have been a degree or 2 off over the years as the gears and shaft wears. Good luck! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 12:28pm
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An early D17D does not have any degrees on the front pulley. Like the others said, roll it around until the two lines in the timing window line up then pull the timing peg out of the rear cover and work the engine back and forth until the peg drops in the hole in the flywheel. This is your pump timing. No reason to scribe lines and such. When you put the pump back on, line up the two marks then pull the peg and your timing is set. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Chgibson
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2024 at 7:45pm
| Well I just pulled my pump before I read this and didn't line up any timing marks before I pulled it. How screwed am I? |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2024 at 8:39pm
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The series 1 diesel is the easiest diesel to time BEFORE you pull the pump. Shut off the fuel at the tank. Place a mark at the pump flange and the mounting plate so you know where it was when you put it back on. Unscrew the timing pin from the flywheel housing, left side of the tractor. Remove the timing window at the pump, fuel will come out, allow it to drain. Easier to have a helper turn the crank pulley clockwise slowly while you are holding the pin in the hole you just unscrewed it from. As the engine flywheel turns the pin will slide into the timing hole. Verify on the pump that the timing marks are lined up. That’s it, very easy. Since you have pulled your pump, I would have to go back to a service manual to figure it out. If you haven’t turned the engine or the pump, put the pump back on and bolt it in place and follow the procedure above until you get it timed and then remove the pump. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2024 at 9:18pm
| Dot-to-dot on the driveshaft tang and the pumps drive socket. Make note of where the flat washers made marks on the pump mounting flange slots and place them in the exact same spot. It will run fine. |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2024 at 10:15pm
| Your previous post mentions removing the pump,breaking it down, and then rebuilding it. That job isn't exactly for a novice. Usually, an experienced diesel pump rebuilding shop is needed. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 6:39am
| One thing I would add is that the pump will come back from the rebuilder with the throttle wired to the wide-open position. Don't remove the wire until the pump is installed on the engine. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 6:48am
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Those previous post were from 2017. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 6:59am
True, but when I have a problem, I often Google (whatever problem I am having) Allis Chalmers Forum. Doing that I usually get good advice and not some of the idiotic replies from some people on the Facebook pages. Don't get me wrong, there are some good people on FB, but many people offer opinions that have no clue what they are talking about.
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AC720Man wrote:Posted By: Chgibson
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 10:53am
| Yeah that's how I got here was googling it. I'm not an experienced mechanic and was trying to decide if I should tackle this tear down and rebuild what are the recommendations? Should I find someone professional to get this done? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 11:30am
| Injection pump Ed can fix you up. Those pumps do require knowledge but also some special tooling to tear down and reassemble. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 11:48am
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As Dr Allis said, I would highly recommend Ed to rebuild it for you. He has done several pumps for me and does excellent work. I wouldn’t attempt it myself. Some things need to be left to experts to repair. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 1:54pm
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Thanks for the plugs guys, you're right on, he said himself he is not a mechanic. That right there tells you to leave it to a professional. The removal and re-installation can be performed by someone with basic mechanical skills. Rebuilding the pump however does require much more skill and experience. I've seen many problems from do-it-yourself jobs gone wrong. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |