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Clutch housing

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=143686
Printed Date: 20 Aug 2025 at 9:52pm
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Topic: Clutch housing
Posted By: jerbob
Subject: Clutch housing
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2017 at 4:04pm
Question troops.

Successfuly adjusted clutch on my HD 16 today. Was set way too tight. Now at 28 pounds pull to engage. When I had the clutch cover off I noticed about 30 years old old black grease accumulated around toe torque converter. Do I need to clean that out or better left alone?



Replies:
Posted By: Morten.have
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2017 at 4:20pm
How did you adjust the clutch? I thought it was a hydraulic unit ?


Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2017 at 4:29pm
It is Morton.
There is an adjustment you can make to control the amount of force to engage the clutch. Per tke book it is not to be less than 15 pounds and not more than 30 pounds of force to engage the clutch. Mine was over 38 pounds. I adjusted it to 28 pounds. Simpler than I thought. Take off a floor plate, take off clutch cover plate, loosen a bolt and turn the adjustment ring. In my case moving ting counter clockwise 4 notches got it where I wanted to be.


Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2017 at 3:24pm
Hello everyone

Before I button up the clutch cavity and put floor plates back down, can someone familiar with a torque converter model 16 let me know if I need to or should clean off the torque converter. When in and adjusting the clutch I noticed,, couldn't help but notice, years of accumulated black grease covering everything.

In the manual it says you can clean or flush the clutch, but in my case the clutch looks pretty clean. To the rear of hit however must be 2 or 3 inches of black, hard and some wet grease covering everything.

Is this something that should be addressed by cleaning and if so, ,,how?

Thank you.


Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2017 at 10:05pm
You had me thinking your asking about the outside,wash away. I always figure bare metal lets heat escape better than caked on mud and oil. 

BUT then you compare it to washing the inside of the clutch compartment,so are asking about inside.


Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2017 at 6:34am
Ye I am talking about the INSIDE of the clutch compartment. At least that's what I call it. Took off the center floor plate, then the clutch access plate to adjust the clutch engagement force. Loosened the retaining bolt and turned the adjustment ring to get desired amount of pull on clutch lever.

This is where I am seeing a large amount of old tar black grease caked on the Outside of the torque converter housing.


Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2017 at 8:07pm
Ok on the out side a pressure washer would get you a good start. My uncle who made a living with a dozer would wash his down every so often. Fifty years ago he would fill a 300 gallon water trough and  portable pump with 2 inch discharge and nozzle about 1/4 inch. Gives good volume as well as good pressure could move a lot of dirt.

He never used screens on the engine compartment,just wash it out when the belly pan filled.  Started with a HD 14C the first torque  converter AC,then a HD21 and finally a Fiat Allis FD 30. 


Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2017 at 8:29pm
Ray54

"He never used screens on the engine compartment,just wash it out. "

Suggests to me that he either didn't have a dozer with the fashionable tapered top line over an unfashionable straight bottom line.  As on a FA 10.  Or that he didn't work in timber.

Our FA 10 (with no side screens) was great for filling the sump guard and the sticks  don't wash out - a known fire hazard.  So I built a set following the picture in the parts book.  It took a while to work out how Fiat did it - some very cunning dimensions in those.

And a much more satisfactory result.

A couple of FD 30's in the area (Fiat V8 engines).  They have vent screens built into the top of the bonnet (hood) area - great for filling the engine V with sticks too.


Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2017 at 9:20pm
 Ian he did have some close calls with fires in the engine compartment what prompted him to start washing them out. The real tree /brush clearing was done from after WW2 to early 1960's.I was born in the 1950's so don't have any memories until the 60's and clearing new land had ended for the most part. The only safety device on the HD 14 was a U shaped pipe from the big bumper up to 4 feet above the hood to keep limbs from coming over the hood. The big Oaks with deep roots he would dig 3 sides up to 10 feet deep,pile the dirt into a ramp and push if it was a solid tree that would not drop limbs. If he thought there where limbs that would break he put a cable u high in the tree and pull. But some of the better land to clear had shallower rooted trees and grew thicker so not as big. I don't know how he judged trees,but no stories of close calls that I ever heard off.

He did comment after the HD 21 with a ripper how much easier clearing would of been with it. But then most work was building small dams to provide water for livestock and wildlife.


     


Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 5:58am
Sure would love to sit on that HD30.


Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 6:04am
Originally posted by Ray54 Ray54 wrote:

Ok on the out side a pressure washer would get you a good start. My uncle who made a living with a dozer would wash his down every so often. Fifty years ago he would fill a 300 gallon water trough and  portable pump with 2 inch discharge and nozzle about 1/4 inch. Gives good volume as well as good pressure could move a lot of dirt.

He never used screens on the engine compartment,just wash it out when the belly pan filled.  Started with a HD 14C the first torque  converter AC,then a HD21 and finally a Fiat Allis FD 30. 


Thank you Ray. Would love to get on a 30!



Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by jerbob jerbob wrote:

Sure would love to sit on that HD30.


Even better with two of them moving and connected with a big chain


Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 3:56pm
Now that's just crazy Ian.


Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 4:10pm
Originally posted by Ian Beale Ian Beale wrote:

Originally posted by jerbob jerbob wrote:

Sure would love to sit on that HD30.


Even better with two of them moving and connected with a big chain




Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 7:29pm
Sounds like a Big Job!  FFWD to about 4:45, in this video, fer a surprise...Wink

[TUBE]Dx8wa7JLHbs[/TUBE]


Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2017 at 2:48am
Originally posted by jerbob jerbob wrote:

Now that's just crazy Ian.


I've driven one but only on a plant shift.  Not in full blown clearing.  Interestingly they have similar control feelings as our FA 10 - only LARGER.

That crew use a relatively short chain and wind them up - flat in second gear at maybe 50 yards wide depending on timber.  Comment on trees on one of our jobs was "They're tight".  The chain would hit a tight one, pull it out of the ground and throw it about ten yards.

Comment also is that the FD30's have the best cooling that they've seen in that type of work.  They've owned HD21's, Komatsu's and worked with Cats on the other end of the chain.


Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2017 at 1:54pm
My uncle sold his FD30 to fellow who was mostly ripping for vineyard development had always run Cat but was having trouble keeping them cool. He liked the 30 so well he ended up looking for more of them.

 Cat had made the assumption a dozer spends 1/2 its time in reverse not working and designed the cooling accordingly. In ripping and brush clearing like Ian was telling about that far from how life is. 


Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2017 at 4:20pm
Ray

"In ripping and brush clearing like Ian was telling about that far from how life is. "

Particularly on the long legs where the wind is wrong for cooling



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