Farm Equipment - D14 Oil Filter and starting

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D14 Oil Filter and starting

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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14367
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Topic: D14 Oil Filter and starting

Posted By: Tyee II
Subject: D14 Oil Filter and starting
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2010 at 11:00pm

I have a 1959 D14. the oil filters at NAPA (wix) bring the oil pressure up on the guage. I noticed this the last time I changed oil and I have changed recently and the guage reads high. I do not remember what was on the tractor prior to using the NAPA filter, but the pressure was in the middle of the normal range and now it is in the high side. Possibly the media is denser creating more resistance ??? Anyone seen this before ? My other problem is hard starting. When cranked over fast, the engine does not want to start. Bumping the starter a few times seems to find a sweet spot and the engine fires. It runs very well, idles good, power is good but it is sometimes difficult to find the spot and annoying if nothing else. i would appreciate any insight you may offer into these two issues.

Thanks

Mike

Replies:

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 12:14am

My guess is you have a 6V tractor and it's been converted to 12V. My Oliver 60 used to do the same exact thing. 6V tractor with 12V battery. Cranked really well, but would not fire. Turned out the battery had a bad cell so the cranking voltage was dropping below 9V while cranking, too low for a 12V ignition system. It would fire off every time when the starter button was released, or the hand crank was used. A new battery fixed that issue.

There was an issue with Wix filters at one time. They tried to go to a pleated paper filter that no doubt did a better job cleaning the oil, but did not have the proper density and caused very low oil pressure. Could be the situation you are thinking of. One filter being senser than another.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 6:34am

If it has the 7011 Napa (57011 Wix) filter then it has the right filter. I sell Wix filters and use them on my D14 with no problem. Did you put in different weight of oil.JP

Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 6:50am

You will see different oil pressure after changing filters even when you use the same filter. I use Fram P-159 and Napa 7011 {Wix Filter} and I see different pressures all the time.
You can put on a brand new filter and check the pressure and then put on another new filter {Same brand and number} and get a different reading. They are not made with the best quality but they want to get top dollar prices for them. Napa is up around $17.00 for a $6.00 filter.

Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 6:53am

Don't worry too much about oil pressure with that engine.
Even if it drops to 5 lbs it will probably be running long after you are gone.

Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 7:24am

An old AC guy around here told me once "as long as it has good pressure when you first start it,don't worry about it."JP

Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 7:30am

I have some B's and C's that don't even have good pressure when I start them and I still don't worry about it.
Some have been that way for over ten years and probably will be that way for the next 20 years.

Just try to kill these engines.
They don't know the word die.

Posted By: Tyee II
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 8:09am

Thanks for the replies. The dead cell in the battery makes a lot of sense. It has been converted. The battery is real old. It seems to start just after I have let off of the key and likely the distributor sees 12volts at that moment. I will try a diffrent battery. The battery has been in it since I have owned the tractor ( nearly 15 yrs) You can always hope something lasts forever ! I have the right NAPA filter, just was concerned about the higher pressure, but it sounds like it should not be a problem. I will post the outcome of a different battery.

Thanks

Mike

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 10:15am

If you have the dropping resistor on the coil , check the wires as there should be a wire that bypasses the resistor when starting . On older GM cars this wire ran from 2nd terminal on starter solonoid directly to coil. On later cars they use a resistance wire from switch to feed the coil but had a bypass wire in system to deliver full voltage to coil when cranking.

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 10:23am

Ford style 4 wire solenoid has the bypass marked I.
When using a ballast resistor run the I wire on the 4 wire solenoid directly to the coil bypassing the resistor.

Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2010 at 10:33am

Might try checking your points gap, and setting them a little wider. Turn the key on and use a meter or test light and check for 12v at the coil and points. If it's a distributor ignition, it shouldn't start or run with a bad cell. I don't think you would get any voltage from a battery with a bad cell anyway.

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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446