Finally pics of my 16
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=142040
Printed Date: 18 Aug 2025 at 12:04pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Finally pics of my 16
Posted By: jerbob
Subject: Finally pics of my 16
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 10:47am
   I may be getting ahead myself but if I can't figure how to send pics to y'all then how can I think I can clean this beauty up and get her in top shape. Wont know if I did the files correctly till I hit submit. Here goes! |
Replies:
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 10:50am
 A better shot of Blade and the extensions that one of the previous owners had welded on. Opinions here,,,, should I leave the wings on or cut them off and take blade back to original look. |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 11:22am
my opinion is they are ugly. If your only going to push dirt they probably help a little but will be in the way when pushing brush/trees I would think. its up to you ultimately. Nice looking machine. Wish mine was hydraulic and id take at torque converter too. Here is mine next to my Dads Hd15 and the ole man himself getting ready to fuel. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 11:28am
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I agree. My use will be more tree and stump remove and some dirt. I was thinking they would be great at snagging stuff and getting in the way. Also, cosmetically, they are ugly looking to the line of the tractor. I suppose of all you are doing is moving piles of dirt that may be fine but my thoughts were to cut them off and go original. Thank you for your opinion on this CAL(KS). Appreciated. |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 11:36am
thing with straight blade is you do lose a lot of dirt off to the sides when pushing. I modified my cutting bits to help push material to the center and it does help. They were worn anyway and I didn't want to spend the $1000 for 2 end bits. with some left over cutting edge, 5lbs of welding rod and some time I came up with these. worn dull bits down work well on a cable setup. 
------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 12:06pm
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CAL(KS) wrote:Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 12:13pm
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Great looking pair. Love that chrome stack on the one. I work full time and travel allot as well. Only get weekends and nights to work on her and really just starting digging into. Getting lists together of fluids, filters, and missing or broken parts to price them out and budget it all. Its like everything else you work with. You find one problem that seems little and it connected to several that are not so little. Want to get the tractor starting every time I push the button. Batteries are old, cables are original but have been taken on and off so much that 1/3 of the battery cable ends are shredded an missing and the battery post terminals are old and worthless. So if you put a charger on the batteries for about 10 mins apiece, she takes off first time every time. found that the generator is not putting out a charge as the bracket is frozen and needs to be tightened. Been soaking it for 3 days and using gentle bangs on bracket to loosen up to adjust it. Right now its frozen tight at the bottom part of the bracket. Looking forward to a 3 day weekend to spend some quality time on fixing the most apparent issues. Getting her charged and starting up without a charge is my first step. |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 12:18pm
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We weren't talking about the tracks but I have a question for ya. To help free up a frozen hydraulic adjuster and NOT blow the seal, could I use a porta power and add some extra oomph to the process. My thought was if I can get the Yoke freed up with the porta power and blocking, the seals may be good enough to hold the piston in place after I get it freed up. Im afraid I am going to blow the seal using just a grease gun and the grease fitting. I could brace against the housing at the rear of the track adjuster and use a 4x4 to push against the the Idler yoke. Thoughts? |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 1:14pm
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im not familiar with the hydraulic adjusters. Is the front idler stuck tight or will it move on the truck frame? is it preventing the track from tightening up? I would give the wood block and porta power a try. maby grease the ram at the same time to try to get it to move. If the ram is froze, it would probably need rebuilt anyway. It would be pretty easy to get a manual adjust from a 16D and go vs fixing the hydraulic. that being said, if it was mine, I would try to get the ram working as it is the correct style for the machine. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 1:33pm
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Thank you Cal for responding. Here is what i have. 1. On the left side, there is 0 adjustment showing on the ram. By that I mean that it has not been adjusted at all and the ram face is flush with the housing. i replaced the 2 grease fittings as they were toast. When my grease gun grabbed onto he new fittings and was not leaking around the fittings you could not even pull the handle down. I was able to get the fitting to take grease and after about 10 pumps, there was a loud metal bang and then the piston started to show about an 1/8" of movement. I stopped and made sure the rear fitting which greases the seal was taking some grease and decided to hold off and let it sit under pressure. My thought is to take the machine our for a little walk and maybe that will loosen up the front Idler and get it moving on the truck frame. 2. On the right side there was some adjustment done in the past as the piston has 1" showing. I am told that there is roughly 3 or 3.5" of ram travel available so if I can get maybe another inch of travel it will equate to quite a bit of slack taken up. Both fittings on the adjuster had to be replaced as one was broke and the one for greasing the seal area will not take grease. When I stated to pump this side up, it took at least 20 or more pumps with no motion on the piston but was getting some resistance on the grease gun so I was thinking it was filling up the area and was getting leakage around the fitting. With not much resistance ( but some ) grease started to leak out around the seal with no movement on the ram. I stopped at that point before I made matters worse. Thats when I thought If I could give the front idler some help with the portapower, it might be enough to break the idler loose from the truck frame and the seal may be strong enough keep the adjustment in place when the porta power is taken off. wishful thinking maybe. Really appreciate the ear and advise. |
Posted By: michale34
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 9:13pm
| I have seen those blade wings used at the sawmill and papermill for pushing up and making chip piles. I like the round cabs on these old ac dozer since the fuel tank and such on ac dozers are all rounded unlike cat . A lot of logging and clearing dozers had the rounded cabs for going through the trees |
Posted By: michale34
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 9:22pm
| On the track adjuster its been many moon but I remember dad taking them off washing them in diesel and replacing the seal it was a round rubber seal that was flat on one side cupped on the other they were about half price from napa then they were from the dealer back when napa had people and books that could actualy find parts insted of what a computer tells |
Posted By: AC Mel
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2017 at 11:48pm
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Jerry... Glad to see you got the picture thing figured out....saves me roooooom.....for the SHAMELESS DUDE pictures I'm still waiting for...I'll still have photobucket space for those when they show up...LOL. I'm with Cal on this....get your" AIR ARC" out and cut that "CRAP" off...turn it into a "MANS TRACTOR" ...Cal and his dad's tractor are a couple of the most "perfect specimens" for cable blades. You really should learn how to run a direct drive cable blade.....before you run a "power shift" or torque converter "hydraulic blade" that being said we're happy you are taking on this project...cause there's lots of support here. Oh... why don't you using the same post for at least 3 pages before starting a new one? It would probably be easier for some members to keep up with....you know like the SHAMELESS DUDE |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2017 at 6:49am
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Suggestion understood and taken ACMel. My son coming over with his shops air arc to clean up the blade. Looks goofy with it on and I already decided to get er done. |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2017 at 6:58am
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Thank you for jumping in. I am going to cut the wings off butvwanted to hear opinions. I don't like the look and I agree with you that I have seen them on units pushing bulk grain, silage and other dry materials. Thanks for the compliment on the canopy. I also like the rounded ones better than a boxy flat box or cage. It's solid and no welds or repairs. Should clean up nice. |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2017 at 7:03am
Thank you. If I can't fix them in place then I will pull them for sure. |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2017 at 8:08am
There is a large heavy equipment company in Michigan called AIS. They sell and maintain. One of their shops is 30 mikes from me and said they would make a no charge house call to look them over and give estimate on repair. They will take them off and replace piston and seals as well as honing the inside to clean them up. Then a re install. Want to do it myself however and that is the route I am taking so far. |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2017 at 8:14am
ACMel. So my old shriveled up brain grasps yer suggestion, and to make it easier for everyone. To follow the post, should I respond with quotes like I did here, or start new post for each response, or, just keep replying on the original post to keep the topics matching up. Being new to the forum I want to be correct in this regard. ;) |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2017 at 9:03am
| New topic/question....new post |
Posted By: jerbob
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2017 at 6:06pm
| Got it. Sorry to confuse. |