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170 temp issue revisited

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=141185
Printed Date: 25 Aug 2025 at 1:25am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 170 temp issue revisited
Posted By: tractorhead9542
Subject: 170 temp issue revisited
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 8:38am
Maybe a month or so ago I posted an issue with a 170 overheat. I would like to bring this back to the table and get input.
After running the tractor for 5 minutes or so the temp gauge creeps up into the low area of red and stays there. I have used a temp gun across the engine to find that it is running considerably warmer near the temp sender than the rest of the engine.
I must inform that the tractor has a recored radiator, new water pump, 160-degree thermostat, new temp gauge and sender. And after all this it still does it. So I've concluded either I have a crappy water pump, a coolant jacket blockage, or possible ignition problem. So over the weekend I did plugs, points, cap & rotor and re-time engine to spec. Hey the tractor runs great but still does the same thing.
The block is nice and cool the head is considerably warmer and the exhaust manifold temperature is in my opinion way too high for a tractor at idle( well into the 400 degree range). Being this engine is set up for an electric gauge you can't just throw a mechanical style in it without drilling it for larger pipe. I have picked up a VDO electrical temp gauge and sender and I'm going to try that just to confirm. I've also replaced the cap but I don't recall popping the cap while warm to see if there was any pressure. So something else I need to check.

I've been a heavy equipment technician for almost 20 years and this is one of the few times I have lost my cool if you will. Any thoughts folks?

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The road to nowhere...leads to me



Replies:
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 12:46pm
whats the infrared gun say?


Posted By: tractorhead9542
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 1:24pm
Block is 138-140 at bottom
Top of block 158
Thermostat 162 in front and after is 180+. 190-195 at sensor
Ex manifold 480_532.

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The road to nowhere...leads to me


Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 3:40pm
Where is the sensor at?  If near the rear side of block then it may be sediment has collected in the block and that is usually furthest from the water pump where water flow is less near the back of the block.  That's all I got.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: tractorhead9542
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 3:43pm
Back of cylinder head manifold side. I fear I may have to tear this down for a blockage

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The road to nowhere...leads to me


Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 4:09pm
Try flushing the block first.


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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 6:32pm
Its the temp sensor location, that's the problem.  I have a D-10III and a D12III that have it in the back, and both are like 40 degrees cooler than the sensor says.  On my D15II, the sender is accurate, and located in the thermostat housing area.  There may have been a older block installed in the tractor, I think new blocks have it in the better spot.  Also takes a longer gauge and tube, to reach that far...

It could have a blockage, but I doubt it.  Also check and see if there's a hole in the exhaust manifold or gasket, that's blowin hot exhaust, on that area...


Posted By: tractorhead9542
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 10:24pm
Flushed the block already. I have a D12 series 3 and don't have this issue. Engine is correct for serial number but I do appreciate the input. I am going to swap gauges probably Wednesday. I will repost then, good night guys

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The road to nowhere...leads to me


Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 6:23am
Thermostat installed correctly? Some can still be installed upside down.


Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 7:12am
My 170 barely makes it into the green doing light work and will be maybe a 1/4 into the green while mowing.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 7:41am
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

whats the infrared gun say?
This. You need to know how accurate your gauge is before you assume anything. It could be your gauge. It could be your sender. It could be that the engine is, in fact, getting too hot. Personally, I think a 160 thermostat is too cold. BTW, how old are your hoses? You won't see a collapsed hose, but it will really impede coolant flow.
 


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 9:54pm
What about fan belt? Is it good? Is the fan pulley worn to where belt runs in bottom? Check temperature of radiator, bottom should be 15 degrees cooler than top.
If tractor is being worked, there should not be that much variation in temperature. Never check temperature on a hose, they will give a false reading.
190-195 is closer to temperature motor should run rather than 160.   MACK


Posted By: tractorhead9542
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 10:04pm
Thermostat installed correctly. It has that goofy brass ring so you can't put it upside down but I did think of that. All hoses are new and so is fan belt and tensioned, not loose at all. Guys, I really do appreciate your input and I mean that. But after all this... still a stalemate. Tomorrow I'm going to play with it some more willing I have the time

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The road to nowhere...leads to me


Posted By: tractorhead9542
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 10:07pm
I agree that a 160 thermostat is a little cold for this tractor. But I have also run it without a thermostat and had the same result. I still use this tractor so I at least need to keep it as cold as I can until I figure this out.

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The road to nowhere...leads to me


Posted By: tractorhead9542
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2017 at 10:14pm
Going to try to run it tomorrow and get it up to where it normally sits. Then it's time to pop the radiator cap. No pressure tells me we have a crappy water pump or cap. Disagree? Cap shouldn't do this!

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The road to nowhere...leads to me


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 7:55am
If it's not boiling over the only problem I see it being is the gauge or sensor.


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