Farm Equipment - 190XT turbo and lines

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190XT turbo and lines

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14036
Printed Date: 02 Feb 2025 at 1:55pm
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Topic: 190XT turbo and lines

Posted By: JC-WI
Subject: 190XT turbo and lines
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2010 at 11:26pm

In another post I mentioned I was retrofitting an AiResearch TO4B80 onto a 190XT that had a rayjay turbo before.

Got me to thinking that I don't know what condition the AR turbo is in. It came off a 7000 engine.

Should I just put it on and try it out or is there a way to test it before putting it on. Or should I just send it out and have it rebuilt , or ...

Buy a new turbo or maybe a rebuilt turbo?

What would the best and most practical solution be.

And while I am asking, should I also plumb up the turbo the way the 7000 was or just fit it up to the existing oil lines from oil gallery on engine?

Does someone have the oil lines and turbo to manifold air tube for the XT with an AR turbo that don't cost an arm an a leg? Thanks, JC

Replies:

Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2010 at 8:43pm

Check the impeller shaft. If there is any play at all it needs a rebuild. Axial or radial. If you an feel it. it is too much.

A rebuild would be cheaper.

I am not sure but my 190XT, 200 And 7010 are plumbed the same. All have the Air Research turbo.

The routeing should be the same on the Ray Jay but may have differant tubes.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2010 at 9:04pm

There will always be some movement in the shaft and bearings on an Air-Research because they are a floating brg !!! If the compressor discharge nozzle isn't oily on the inside, it's probably fine.....do NOT condemn one for looseness in the brgs/shaft. They are often good for 7-8000 hrs of use.

Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2010 at 5:48pm

I found out tree branches also help you find out when your exhaust housing is about rusted through too :). If you just put it on and run it to test it, a couple things. Make sure you prime the oil line to it so it doesn't run dry off the start. I also poor in some fresh oil in the bearing on new turbos and spin the bearing to make sure it gets some oil down in there, then crank the engine over with the pump in the off position until the tractor shows oil pressure. Also, make sure the exhaust housing isn't about rusted through, as on the 301's that's what supports the exhaust pipe, and when they rust through pretty good, they can break off easily and leave you without a turbo. Also, be ready to stall the engine with the tractor in road gear in case you get run away if the turbo has a bad oil seal. Don't want to suck the engine dry of oil. I would test to make sure you can stall the tractor easily before you put the new turbo on if at all possible. And don't try to stall it with a rag/hand in the intake. Heard some bad stories.

Hurst

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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours

Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2010 at 10:12pm

What I said was if you can feel any play, It needs repair. Most people cannot feel .005-.009 end play. The radial endplay is .020 max