Wd45 connecting rods
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=140205
Printed Date: 27 Nov 2024 at 5:30pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Wd45 connecting rods
Posted By: Joshrod
Subject: Wd45 connecting rods
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2017 at 9:52pm
Does anyone know if there is a rod that will fit a factory wd45 crank but be about .125 or .1875 longer than stock? I purchased oversized sleeves and pistons thinking I was getting d17 pistons but they are dished just like wd45. I can return them for 80 dollars  . Just trying to make the best of this and still increase compression.
|
Replies:
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 3:48pm
|
Wd45, D-17, 170 and 175 pistons are all "dished" (Power Crater pistons) Just because they are "dished" doesn't mean they aren't higher compression than stock WD45 pistons. As was said in posts before, you need to order 4.125" - 7.25/1 compression pistons or 4" - 8.25/1 compression pistons (if you can find them and if you can afford them $$$$).A very well respected mechanic on this forum told me the Power Crater pistons will out dyno the higher compression flat-top pistons. They will also run on pump fuel and have a lot more longevity than an engine with flat-top pistons from a 201 engine. ...but to answer your question, I, personally, have never heard of longer connecting rods. I know some of the well respected engine builders use Farmall H rods, but I don't know their length, compared to WD45 rods. Everything I have read about using the H rods is for more clearance in a stroked engine. ...and by the way, rods from a 201 engine need to be shimmed when you install them, unless you have a machine shop machine them to work without shims.
|
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 3:56pm
|
If you are trying to build a "pulling engine", my advice is to search the pulling section of this forum and read everything you can before you start. There is a lot of information available on here from guys that know what they are talking about and they can save you a lot of money and aggravation. Speaking of money, if you are building a pulling engine and the pistons you already bought are really stock WD45 pistons, my advice is to return them and chalk the $80 up to your first pulling lesson. There will be many more lessons before you're done and a lot of them will cost much more than $80!!!
|
Posted By: Joshrod
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2017 at 4:30am
| I agree that there is tons of information on here, so much so that it seems overwhelming to sift through! I will probably complete this rebuild with this engine, dyno it and pull it once or twice. If this plus a good overhaul/tune up doesn't get me what I am aiming for I will pay more attention before I start the other wd45 engine. I had 2 needing rebuilt anyway, but I started with the one with the better transmission. I am not opposed to learning from my mistakes, but from now on I need to pay more attention I guess. I am a machinist, so many of these things seem like great fun to me! Just finished making some billet aluminum goodies to drop weight in some places! |
Posted By: Joshrod
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2017 at 9:03am
| Has anyone ever had one of those moments where you look in the mirror and say.....how did I make it this far in life? After ordering the wrong set of sleeves and pistons, based on my assumption I was doing the right thing, I pulled the head off only to discover that this block is currently holding a 4.125 M&W piston. Can a person get any dumber? I haven't removed pistons or sleeves yet but block is on the engine stand. I say they are m&w pistons only by the shape on top of the piston heck I am probably wrong again lol. Should I replace crank bearings, hone cylinder, re-ring pistons and carry on or do I still have better options? |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2017 at 12:36pm
|
You need to do some reading !!!!! DO NOT USE SP46 M&W PISTONS IN AN ENGINE WITH A 4.5" (226) CRANKSHAFT !!! Here are some links to some threads you need to read: http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/mw-ap46-oops_topic22310.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/mw-ap46-oops_topic22310.html http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/pros-and-cons-on-mw-pistons-in-wd45_topic101316.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/pros-and-cons-on-mw-pistons-in-wd45_topic101316.html http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/qs-for-future-project-wd45-engine-mods_topic39529.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/qs-for-future-project-wd45-engine-mods_topic39529.html
|
Posted By: Joshrod
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2017 at 2:43pm
| I'm not sure how far the valves enter the cylinder, but I measured quickly with calipers and had .330 between top of piston and block no gasket. I am just getting ready to read the other threads. |
Posted By: Larry(OH)
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 7:27am
|
That AP-46 oops is mine. You can use them, BUT you need to have the top of the piston milled off. You can see where the valves hit, ans that was with a large lift cam I had in it. This was my first AC build and a quick learning experience for sure. If I remember right, you need to take about .125 off the top and should end up in the 11.5-1 comp ratio area using the AP-46 pistons ------------- '40 WC puller,'50 WD puller,'50 M puller '65 770 Ollie *ALLIS EXPRESS contact* I can explain it to you, BUT I cannot understand it for you!! |
Posted By: Joshrod
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 7:48am
| Those pistons have been in there for who knows how long, I have owned the tractor over 3 years and plowed and baled and mowed with it and it never knocked or anything. I never put anything but regular unleaded in it. I can't believe it is anywhere near that high on comp |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 10:28am
That is true with a (4" stroke) 201 crankshaft. What we are talking about is using M&W SP46 pistons with a 4.5 stroke, 226 crankshaft (which is what I thought you were talking about doing). When you add .25" to the top of the stroke, the pistons are too high.
|
Joshrod wrote:Posted By: Joshrod
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 5:29pm
| So you think someone put a different crankshaft in the engine as Well? I haven't taken pan off yet to inspect, but how would I know if it wasn't a wd45 crank? I will be off tomorrow and Wednesday and hope to get a lot done in the shop! 12 hour nights are killing me lol |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 8:18pm
| I thought, on another post, that you said it was a (WD) 201 engine and you were planning to change to a (WD45) 226 crankshaft. |
Posted By: Joshrod
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 9:14pm
| No sir, it is a wd45. I always thought it to be stock until I removed head. Sleeves still need to be removed regardless because I noticed antifreeze in the oil when I started rebuild process. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2017 at 9:06am
|
Since you have antifreeze in the oil and, if the pistons look ok, I would probably install new sleeves, bearings and re-ring it. If you plan to pull it, you might want to think about installing a D-17 governor spring and, possibly, having a cam reground close to 175 specs. That will give you an engine that will run on pump gas, can be worked all day and will still give you more power at higher RPM.
|
Posted By: Joshrod
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2017 at 1:24am
Is there enough meat on a factory wd45 cam to grind to 175 specs? This is an addicting hobby, and I haven't even got it back up and running yet lol |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2017 at 3:11pm
|
Here is some reading too http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/wd45-reliance-vs-mw-engine-kit-comparison_topic121191.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/wd45-reliance-vs-mw-engine-kit-comparison_topic121191.html Sorry to see that photo bucket killed the pictures
|