STUCK tie rod on a 190
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13971
Printed Date: 02 Feb 2025 at 8:53am
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Topic: STUCK tie rod on a 190
Posted By: Daniel Christensen
Subject: STUCK tie rod on a 190
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 7:29pm
I was adjusting the front tire of the 190XT so there is room for a stone box on the side and I didn't expect the tie rod to be a problem. It was/is. It is STUCK. I mean stuck. I took the clamp off, bent the ears out, tapped on it pulled on it. I then even wedged a block in between the tire and tractor and used the power steering to pull on it. No good. Even the power steering didn't have enough power, even with me hitting it while the power steering was pulling.
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CAx3, Bx2, G, D17x2, D14x2, D15, D19, 190XT, WC, WD-45, 185, Gleaner K.
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Replies:
Posted By: Daniel Christensen
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 8:08pm
Just gonna leave me hangin' then...
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CAx3, Bx2, G, D17x2, D14x2, D15, D19, 190XT, WC, WD-45, 185, Gleaner K.
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Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 8:24pm
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Put the heat to it!
Don
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Posted By: Gary in Texas
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 9:03pm
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This may be a dumb question, but have you tried turning it with a pipe wrench? The screw together, don't they?
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Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 9:26pm
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Heat the whole thing cherry red from end to end, I don't know if it would apply in this case but I have heard recently about cooling fast? They only slide together.
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Posted By: Kcgrain
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 9:37pm
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I have only had luck with these 2 ways, one is to take it off heat it red hot, have a 5 gal pail or a 15 gal drum sitting there with ice cold water in and drop the heated rod in there and shock it, it will break the bond between the two pieces, and on some things like 3rd links they will turn apart by hand, the other method is to take the tie rod off, have a nylon strap of some sort, a thick one, for both ends slip knot the nylon strap on find a tree or something substantial and another tractor, I use a 210 and have someone slowly put some torque on the tie rod as you start to heat it with a torch, and it will come right apart. DO NOT use a chain on the tie rod because it will bend it when you apply power, found that out the hard way, clean it up nice and clean with a wire wheel, smear anti seeze all over the male end and you can adjust or replace it with no prob in the future
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Posted By: Oldoug
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 10:04pm
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Heat with torch to red hot then dump cold water on it. You will be amazed at how easy it comes apart.
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Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 10:40pm
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Ive never heard of the ice water trick, I usually heat them and beat on them to try to jar them loose. Will the water make them loose strength?
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Posted By: Daniel Christensen
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 10:42pm
All right thanks everyone; I was hoping though not to have to heat it because it's painted nice and I know that will take the paint right off. I'll bet just pulling it against a tree would do it with no or little heat.
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CAx3, Bx2, G, D17x2, D14x2, D15, D19, 190XT, WC, WD-45, 185, Gleaner K.
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2010 at 5:33am
Just did this yesterday on my D19. I heated the outside tube so that inch by inch it was heated to a red hot as far as the rod stuck in. Then I used the power steering to slide it apart. Didn't take long at all. Done many that way. Never had one I needed to cool with water. The bigger trick for me was sliding the axle out. I had never had a problem with that until yesterday. Judging by the paint, I don't think they had ever been moved. Luckily I got one side out with a jack pushing from the frame to the spindle arm and using a mall. The other side was much worse. Had to heat the axle tube with a rosebud and use a 16# mall and heavy shaft through the axle tube and also a jack between the frame and spindle arm. Three person job. Was seriously considering splitting the axle tube.
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: Daniel Christensen
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2010 at 8:51pm
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What if I were to instead further increase the length of the tie rod on the other side which is not stuck instead of breaking the left side loose which I can't seem to do.
Then I might not be able to turn as sharp one way but I never have to turn hard over anyway. I really can't break it loose. I'm thinking it's never been moved since it was new.
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CAx3, Bx2, G, D17x2, D14x2, D15, D19, 190XT, WC, WD-45, 185, Gleaner K.
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Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 4:36am
Replace the whole thing,BTDT!!
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 8:53am
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If you have time, drill and tap a hole in the hollow part of the tube. Insert a grease zirk, Fill it with grease. A grease gun can put a lot of pressure on the end of the male part and will eventually find its way past the stuck area. dont do this if you think you may use heat later.
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Posted By: Daniel Christensen
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 9:15am
I already tried extending the other tie rod farther which also works it just won't turn as sharp the one way because it'll get to the end of the hydraulic. It's buried in the barn now but I'll try it and see if it's good enough when I get it out.
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CAx3, Bx2, G, D17x2, D14x2, D15, D19, 190XT, WC, WD-45, 185, Gleaner K.
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Posted By: Daniel Christensen
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 3:25pm
I got it using heat. It didn't take too much. It took the paint right off but I heated as little as possible then used the power steering to do it. Now it's good. Room for the stone boxes.
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CAx3, Bx2, G, D17x2, D14x2, D15, D19, 190XT, WC, WD-45, 185, Gleaner K.
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