Slipping at low RPM on 7000 series
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=137488
Printed Date: 09 Jan 2025 at 7:17pm
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Topic: Slipping at low RPM on 7000 series
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Subject: Slipping at low RPM on 7000 series
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2017 at 7:55pm
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I have checked the Pressure at test port by the clutch. 190-193 is about the best I get. I know it is suppose to be 200. Is it that critical. When tractor has run a few hours it slips at idle or low rpm. We use this in 1 gear in low range for transplanting...very slow. When rpm Is raised it engages fine. It gets worse as the day goes on. All other hydraulics work fine. Thanks for help, I am back on it tomorrow. And Yes I have the manuals Oh, it is a 7060 with power director tranmission |
Replies:
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2017 at 9:42pm
| At what rpm does the 1800 light come on? I would rather think the PD needs resealed rather than low pressure. New seals might bring pressure back up. MACK |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 6:08am
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Mack, I think it got to where it stayed on all the time. The light has stopped working. But I do remember it staying on all the time. We use this tractor once a year for about a week, and then it its back to the shelter. So raising the Pressure at the test port is not going to help? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 7:25am
| Raising the pressure will only raise the pressure when throttled up, not at a slow speed. Sounds like leaking seals in the clutch and then a possible gerotor pump issue. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 7:36am
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Raising the pressure won't hurt, but no lower than it is won't make much difference. Without flow rating the pump it is hard to tell about the pump. Resealing PD don't cost much if you do the labor. MACK
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:48am
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does it slip in high range pd-? -high button on floor, different seals and piston - plus takes less pressure. If it does you have a geroter issue... or bad seals on both pistons..
------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 10:20am
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It slips at low rpm in HI or Low. But it does not slip as bad when first cranked. After been running a while it requires higher rpm to stay engaged. The low pressure light stayed on most of last year and has quit now (probably burnt out). We used this at idle or little faster in 1st gear to transplant. Manual says PSI at Inching valve test port should not drop below 150. I am going to check that now. Im sure I don't have that minimum Thanks |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 12:09pm
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Dr Allis When tractor is cool, the pressure at clutch area test port will go to 200 psi. As the tractor warms up the best I get is 190. Also at lower rpm it will fall to less than 100. It will drop to 75 Would that be pump or the seals Thanks |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 12:18pm
| Without a hydraulic pump GPM tester, it is a guess. You don't say how many hours are on it. I'm thinking both pump AND seals in the Power Director clutch. Are you measuring pressure on the top of the valve??? |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 8:29pm
 This is what I found in the strainer. I'm sure it is the first time we have had it off. Most likely first time ever for life of tractor. I will see if it increases the low RPM pressure. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 10:24pm
| After seeing picture of screen, I would say you need a pump and rebuild the PD. MACK |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2017 at 10:24pm
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Are you setting tobacco? If so please post some pictures because most on here have not seen it done. Burley or flue cured? 10 acres of burley is the most we ever put out. Thanks and good luck with the tractor. Can't hurt cleaning the filter and changing the oil.be sure to use 821 hyd oil or equal. Scott ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 5:45am
| Yes, we are setting tobacco. These are tillage tractors from 70s and 80s. We pull them out once a year for this process. They are not pretty but wheel spacing is set for 48" rows so we do not have to move wheels in and out on our daily user tractors. I will try to get some pic of 7045 and 7060 working tobacco |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 6:09am
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Changing the filter and oil might help, but only for the short term. It looks like there's a lot of burnt stuff there. |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 6:55am
      The lift on the ACs are really sensitive and make them work well for tobacco. I would prefer the powershift but the PD works well to. I just  from Hi to Lo range when turning around. We have about 200 acres of Flu cured
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 7:17am
Very cool pictures, thanks for posting them! Question? Do you grow the tobacco from seed or do you get the seedlings in trays from a nursery ready to set out?  ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 7:19am
| As a Band-Aid to your problem, Caterpillar makes a 30 weight drivetrain oil (TDTO) that would be thicker than what you are using for trans oil. |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 11:16am
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Stan, we got coated seed and used 200 cell vacuum seeder to put the seed trays then put them on water.hydrophonics? A lot easier than the way we used to make tobacco beds and pull the plants to set.Looks like flue cured, a lot different than the burley we used to grow. Thanks for the pics Safe and good luck with the tractor. Scott ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 12:37pm
| I will send some pic of greenhouses tonite. The seeds are coated and we plant them in a floating tray in February. As they get older we mow the them every other day to get them all the same size. When they are big enough we transplant them, should be next week. |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 12:42pm
| Cleaning the strainer and adding the 821 oil has picked up my low rpm reading to 135 psi. This should help, I would think. Still peaks at 190 ish when it is warmed up. Of course I will not know for sure until it is worked an hour or so. Thanks again |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 11:35am
| If I had to use that tractor to get current work done, would seriously consider changing the filter every 10-15 hours, and clean the screen till spotless. May buy some time on a unit that is likely gonna have to be torn down anyway and you can help it clean up the system regardless. |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 5:24pm
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Tim I thought the transmission strainer was separate from the other 2 hydraulic filter. I also thought this was the only filter on this side for transmission. Do I need to look for another filter for the 821 oil. |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 5:29pm
| No expert on the 7000 Series. My comment is based on pics you posted showing how nasty it is. Cleaning everything up again may buy you some time . . . |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 6:13pm
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There are three filters on the bottom of the tractor. The one you found is a "strainer" per Allis, and is cleanable/reusable. The other two are on each side of the rear differential down low, I.E. bottom of the housing under and just forward of the axles, there are two round inset plugs about 6-7" in diameter, with a handle grip across the center, behind those are a filter each. "DO NOT use a wrench on the welded nuts, if they are still there, you take out the three bolts, holding the plug in, and use two of them to "push" out the plug. Have a bucket ready as you will get up to a couple gallons of oil from each, but it should stop without draining the entire case. Make sure if you change them, get everything back in in the same location and orientation as it came out. I think this was said above, don't remember while I am typing this. These are in addition to your power director, that filter is behind the frame rail left side of the tractor by the engine ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: lowell66dart
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 8:15pm
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Hey Tobacco farmers!!! I grow a little Perique down here too. ------------- AC 6080 (8030,7060,200,175,D-17HC, 6040,160,6140 all gone) Farmall 1066 & 656 Hi-Clear (for sale), White 2-62 High Clearance, JD 4255 Hi Clear. |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 10:01pm
| Orange Blood, I do know where those canister filters are and we change those every year. Only 100 or so hours on them. Gets done when we change engine oil. All help and comments welcome. Thanks |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2017 at 7:23am
| Those belly filters don't need to be changed every 100 hrs !! I believe the owners manual says every 1,000 hrs, so 500 hrs would suit me. |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2017 at 7:24am
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Thanks Sagefarmer and Allisrutledge for the information on tobacco!! ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: pirlbeck
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 12:46pm
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I sent this info to Sagefarmer in a PM in reply to a PM he sent to me about this problem, but I thought it might be a good idea to post it here too. OK, I searched your posts on here and AgTalk, so I have a little better idea of what you are dealing with and what you have done and found so far.
I think your low pressure problem must be in one or more of the following areas. We sometimes find multiple problems, especially in cases where something has not worked properly for years. 1, Pressure regulating valve dirty or scored and sticking preventing in from closing enough to block off the oil at low rpm. I think I read that you have a service manual for this tractor. If it is a factory manual, it will have a section on checking and adjusting this valve. This valve is located at the LH front of the cab directly ahead of the clutch pedal. To access the pressure regulating valve you have to unbolt the front part of the valve that contains the power director shift spool. Be aware that there are several springs behind this valve along with the cooler bypass valve shims and a number of o-rings. 2, Gerotor pump scored and worn out. Judging by the way the intake screen looked when you cleaned it I think this could be a real possibility. The gerotor pump is the very rear pump in the pump stack, the intake screen you had out goes directly into the inlet of this pump. 3, The gerotor pump outlet pressure is ported out of the through the round pump pilot and into a port in the rear end housing and the through an external line up to the power director valve. This pressurized oil is sealed with 2 o-rings around the OD of the pump pilot. If the rear o-ring was missing or damaged it would allow this pressurized oil to escape directly back into the rear end housing. I would start by looking at the pressure regulating valve in the power director valve and if I did not find any thing there I would be pulling the gerotor pump and having a look. Be aware that you may already have warped/burnt disks and plates in the power director from the low pressure. It is also possible that you have a large leak in the power director clutch itself.....which could cause your low pressure problems. A working trans pressure light or at the very least putting a pressure gauge in the sending unit port on the trans filter base would tell you if the lube pressure was a lot lower on either hi or low of the power director. Usually this sort of problem would be isolated to either the hi or the low side......but it is possible to have a problem that would affect both hi and low. In one of the AgTalk posts you mentioned about having a "5th gear clutch pack" put in.......what was done at that time? A power director tractor has nothing that would be called a "5th gear clutch pack". Can you give us more info on what this repair was and if the problems started right after this repair? |