Wd45 stalls out under stress
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=136694
Printed Date: 04 Sep 2025 at 7:41pm
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Topic: Wd45 stalls out under stress
Posted By: Mountain goat
Subject: Wd45 stalls out under stress
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 5:39am
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I can't figure out if the issue is fuel or electrical I cleaned the entire fuel system and the points got it to run great in neutral. Any ideas |
Replies:
Posted By: omahagreg
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 6:21am
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Rust in the tank? My WD would run after setting-maybe 5 minutes, then die. Wait a while, it would repeat! Found out rust chunks were mostly blocking the inlet inside the tank. ------------- Greg Kroeker 1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 7:05am
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Check ignition timing advance weights and spring under the points plate and then check the governor weights. You can also open up the main or load jet by one turn and see if that helps also. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 7:11am
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is your tractor stuck between 2 gears?
------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 7:29am
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Mountain Goat... that's undoubtedly one of the shortest problem descriptions you could describe. Troubleshooting a problem with a RUNNING engine is best if one makes more observations known, and also identifies what was attempted. One of the very first things that will stall an engine, is applying too much load. Another, is applying a load before the engine is warm enough to run. Having improper mixture, plugged up air filtration, plugged exhaust, leaky intake or exhaust manifold, poor fuel, improper fuel level or plugged carbeurator, weak battery, bad coil, stuck spark advance mechanism... worn carb throttle shaft, governor linkage problem, sticky valves, hydraulic pump unloader mechanism failure... Here's a really simple one: Water in the gearbox, and ambient temperature below 32F... frozen gears... just like stuck brakes... Can you tell us more about what youv'e done, mebbie a bit more example of how much stress is required for it to stall... what does it sound like, what color is the spark plug insulator once it stalls? ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 8:16am
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Brakes rusted in the ON position? Like Dave says, we need more info. Where in WI are you located? There's all kinds of help all over the state..... ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 5:55pm
| Sorry my first time I made several attempts to get that post up ok it runs great in neutral idling and high Rev but when I go up a hill or try to get a load of gravel in the bucket it starts to misfire and pop but keeps going I've cleaned the entire fuel system except the tube in carb couldn't get it out but used carb cleaner and air gastank had rust so took it off cleaned it cleaned points and retimed it 2 turns out on carb runs best brakes good air cleaner good |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 6:54pm
| The tractor sat outside for a year or so untouched before I got it.at first it would only run a few seconds because rust was plugging the inlet in the tank so I cleaned it then it would run but it miss fired alot then I cleaned line n card then started both jets air and gas 1.5 turns it started warmed up I moved the thottle n it died so I turned fuel out to 1.75 stared ran ok also noticed that the the idle screw was all the way in. Anyway it ran better still to much missing so then I moved the distributor until it leveled out with barely any missing and the idle speed went up then put it on high Rev and it missed slightly so I left it on high Rev and adjusted the fuel until it ran smooth now it runs great until I go up hill or scoop with it the brakes don't stick although I have driven with them locked 1 time the shift works great no slipping out |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 7:24pm
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I might suggest taking the hose from the air cleaner to the carb off and try it. Maybe the air cleaner is plugged? Or put your hand over the top of the air cleaner pip when running and see if that makes any difference. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2017 at 7:43pm
| Thanks for the advice guys I'll try to narrow it down next time I go to the tractor |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 7:50pm
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Worked on the wd45 yesterday checked the plugs n wires took the air cleaner off n it ran the same it runs good until I go up the hill and it starts surging runs good for 3 seconds then misfires for 3 seconds then good then misfire I'm starting to think it's a governor problem. If I hold the rod coming off the carb it revs up n runs smoothly and it tries to push the rod back. If I move the hand throttle lever I can move it about 1 inch before it moves anything else. I've seen posts on this did anyone ever figure it out |
Posted By: GregStremel
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 8:10pm
| Try brand new spark plugs? We used to have a problem like this. The Champion pugs looked good. We put new Autolite plugs in and problem solved. |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 8:36pm
| My d 14 had a similar problem . Going up hills on the road it would start missing and cutting off.It had not been run much in several years. Cleaned carb and it cleared up.The tude in the carb needs to be cleaned also . |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2017 at 4:49am
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is it a magneto or coil? if it's a coil maybe it's starting to go. generally it takes a bit to get the coil hot and it just shuts off and won't start till it's cooled down. but I've found parts generally fail in there own way, just to mess with us...lol
------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2017 at 6:35am
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I agree with replacing the spark plugs. Mine did the same thing going up a hill. I did everything suggested and nothing changed. I finally replaced the plugs with new ones. Problem gone. Don't clean them-replace them. Good luck! ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: rw
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2017 at 8:15am
| The plugs potentially could be the problem and all 4 at once makes it a little less logical but strange things happen. Sounds more to me like the fuel mixture is getting lean. At high idle with no load the throttle plate is just barely open more than at low idle and this means most of the fuel is being supplied through the idle jet. When the load goes up the throttle plate opens more thanks to the governor trying to maintain RPMs. The opening of the throttle plate means more air and more air needs more fuel. The gas for this increased amount of air is supplied by the main metering jet. I suspect this needed fuel is not being supplied for some reason. I think for sure it is not making it to the combustion chamber at the right time and in the right amounts to make the power to keep it running. I'd open the main jet about a half a turn. I have seen times If it has an idle mixture jet that is open too far you have to run the main jet closed up a bit to get it to idle at low speed. Those old carbs just kind of "spill" the gas into the air stream. They can do a great job but they need to be clean enough spill the right amount and todays gasoline can clean junk out of passages and drop it into other passages. |
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2017 at 8:46am
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Bad condenser maybe? ------------- '49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2 |
Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2017 at 10:18pm
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Coil ------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040 |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 3:53am
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could also try running it at night that way ya can see if there is any spark arcing, like a hairline crack in the distributor cap or bad wire, etc.
------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 8:44am
| It has a coil.I cleaned the carb again I'm pretty sure it is not a fuel problem or governor.I took the plugs out and cleaned them.their champion 1 and 3 were flooded I put them back in it idled great went up the hill good at first then started it's stuff again the farther I went the worse it got I think it is electric problem |
Posted By: NICKMI
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 9:14am
| How much fuel is in tank might not be enough to push fuel to carb if going up a hill try putting more gas in it and cleaning the carb since it sat for awhile plugs are also a good idea autolite 295 work good for me avoid champion plugs good luck getting it up and running good |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 9:16am
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Replace the plugs! Don't clean them. I believe I put Autolite 295 plugs in mine. It's a cheap try and new plugs never hurt.. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: ocharry
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 11:09am
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i would change the plugs ,,,,and wires,,,,and the coil wire if you had 2 plugs fouled they are not firing under load,,,,change them all my .02 ocharry
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Posted By: 45 turboa-
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 11:36am
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I think I would try new points and cond. find ecklin or standard points and cond. There are a lot of cheap brands out there and they are junk. ------------- turbocharged |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 2:15pm
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Champion plugs just don't work good in an AC 201 or 226 engine. Like was said before, buy yourself a set of Autolite plugs. It will make a world of difference! |
Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 3:28pm
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I had a very similar problem with a D15. It would get worse as it ran. It Was The COIL! ------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040 |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 8:10pm
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Champion tractor plugs are junk and won't clean properly no matter what you do to them. Get rid of them. Gerald J. |
Posted By: corbinstein
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2017 at 6:41am
I stall out under stress too! 
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2017 at 8:20am
If the plugs are wet coming out they're not firing correctly. Most folks just don't have any luck with Champion plugs (including me) Some folks don't have any problems with the Champions. Put a set of Autolite 295's in them and then see how it runs. That's probably the issue, cause' if the Chimpanzes are fouled, its getting fuel. Take them out the throw em' in the round file. I never try to clean spark plugs unless they are new and got fouled because of a flooding issue or setting up an engine or somethin'. Older used plugs, in the trash....  ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2017 at 9:50am
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Lots of Champion tractor plugs have an internal series gap to cause the coil to generate a higher voltage because Champion presumes ALL vintage engines are oil burners. That's one problem and the other one it appears that the ceramic is porous so that carbon soaks in and standard cleaning like running normally or with a surface abrasive powder doesn't clean them. Good reasons to avoid Champion tractor spark plugs. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2017 at 11:40am
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Champions do better as a fishing sinker than in your engine. I like AC Delco Autolite or NGK, or Motorcraft in a Ford. Only problem is at some point in time Champion makes plugs for everybody. Just depends on who needs what and what they're tooled up to make. That said, you've got either a condenser or coil breaking down. Either upgrade it to a Pertronix and Flame Thrower coil or use Standard Blue Streak from our buddy Steve in NJ. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2017 at 4:16pm
| Well guy's it wasn't the champion plugs I guess I try coil then points then cap rotor wires condenser |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2017 at 5:13pm
| Do a compression test, you may have a weak engine. Trev. |
Posted By: NICKMI
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2017 at 7:30pm
| Do you have good fuel flow to your carb does it stall or run crappy going down the hill ? |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2017 at 9:13pm
| I think when you get to the wires you'll have found your problem. |
Posted By: corbinstein
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 6:59am
| another little tidbit...... check the cap and rotor... If the rotor doesn't make really good contact you will have a weak or no spark condition. I have one rotor that's a cheapo and nearly every time I go start the tractor, i have to bend it out to touch the cap. otherwise it won't start or runs poorly. I bought it that way, cheap... |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 7:12am
| Have you checked the timing yet? I was going to suggest it before, but someone else already had. |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 4:42pm
| I have adjusted the timing 4 times but just by ear I just try to get the fastest and the smoothest and then retard it a bit. I don't know how to do it with the timing light.I noticed it has a slight seep of coolant coming out the head gasket on the sparkplug side of the motor.son of a biscuit |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 8:29pm
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They seems to be how everyone on here says to time it by year, unless you're using a timing light. Is it seeping coolant or oil? The pushrod oil galleys run very close to the edge of the head on the spark plug side and tend to seep oil.
Take a look here if you what to see the head off. http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=126761&title=wd45-rebuild-progress" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=126761&title=wd45-rebuild-progress And here http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=118485&title=201-engine-assembly" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=118485&title=201-engine-assembly
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 10:18am
| ...when mine was seeping like that,I grabbed the tq wrench and they all moved....dried it up.Must reset valve lash. |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 12:16pm
| It was coolant green n clean but no coolant in the cylinders looks like there might be a bit of oil in the 2 cylinders that r fouling out. Does this sound like it could be the root of the problem. Seeping ecsess oil into cylinders and fouling plugs |
Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 2:43pm
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Have you checked the coil????? ------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040 |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 6:38pm
| Is there a way to test the coil. I checked it to see if it was hot n it wasn't |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 8:14pm
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Plug in the wire that goes from the top of the coil to the distributor cap. Support the other end 3/8" from the ground terminal. Connect battery voltage positive to the positive terminal. Connect the battery negative to the negative terminal temporarily. Every time you break that connection there would be a spark across that 3/8" air space. Without a condenser it will be yellow. With the proper condenser across the connection you break the spark should be blue. Be careful to not contact the high voltage parts with your body, it will HURT big time. There can be enough voltage on the circuit you break to shock too so be careful use insulation between you and that wire. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Rog(NCWI)
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 8:35pm
| I'll put my 2 cents in also. I had a WD and it had the similar problem. I changed the spark plug wires and problem solve. It backfired when under load also. Also different spark plugs. |
Posted By: Mountain goat
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 9:34am
| Well guys I got sick of messing around so I went all out on the electrical. New points cap rotor coil. Plug wires condenser. Problem fixed. Don't know what it was. don't matter she runs great paid 1800 for it n stuck 100 into it not bad for a wd45 with a front bucket loader. Just wanted to say THANK YOU GUYS FOR ALL THE HELP. MOUNTAIN GOAT OUT! |