tips for new tractor owners
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=136233
Printed Date: 02 Oct 2025 at 5:48pm
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Topic: tips for new tractor owners
Posted By: dt1050
Subject: tips for new tractor owners
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 1:42pm
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A lot of us have used tractors for years, I thought I'd start a post for folks to share tips they have learned through the years to help those new to tractors. I learned (after almost rolling a tractor). if you only have 1 tire loaded on the rear of the tractor, make sure to keep the loaded tire up hill. ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Replies:
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 3:09pm
| Can you explain about the loaded tire? I would think you'd want the filled fire on the down side. If it was on the up side, wouldn't it give you a higher center of gravity? |
Posted By: Josh(NE)
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 3:12pm
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My tip would be buy a good owners and repair manual, not an IT manual. A good manual is a wealth of information. ------------- Allis Express '65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 3:31pm
Agree, I've had the IT manual and while there helpful they are not nearly as good as a repair manual. grab a cinder block and walk on a hill. first try it holding it in your down hill hand, it will want to pull you over and down the hill, if it's on the up hill side, it will pull towards the hill and will help keep you balanced. it's best to keep fluid in both wheels or non at all. Sorry, I can't really explain the specifics in a scientific way. ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Josh(NE) wrote:Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 3:44pm
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Promoting that they should ask questions, on a knowledgeable site like this even if not considering an A-C. When I am asked to help someone decide, my first question is ALWAYS "what do you want to do with the tractor". How big is your place is also a factor as many feel they want something small to get started but push that small unit beyond both operating and safety limits later. Then on to hydraulics requirements, loader use if they have not used one and I always stress "a loader tractor is not a bulldozer". Gas vs. diesel is also a big one, and "gray market" tractors they may be looking at that have no parts support, etc. Have actually talked a few out of buying a real tractor as they had little use for what they thought they needed, beyond some initial work on property they were purchasing. Advise some to rent a decent FWD, have the work hired or have even done some work for folks reasonably myself as it seems many just need a real "garden tractor". Some people are afraid to ask questions, ripe for an unscrupulous salesman that sells them something they do not need and "trailer packages" are the rage down here the last ten years. Lite duty JD FWD, loader, back blade (or box blade with scarifiers) and a four-six foot brush cutter where a trailer is included in the package. They sell a monthly payment that they naturally finance. Questions are free . . . . |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 3:50pm
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Timnearforthworth, good point, any folks out there that are new or old to tractors/farm equipment, feel free to post a question and see what answers we can give. http://nasdonline.org/1650/d001534/a-guide-to-safe-farm-tractor-operation.htmlDriving across a steep slope: The greater the angle of the slop, the greater the danger will be of rollover. Your tractor was designed to distribute it's weight around the centre of gravity of the vehicle. If you cross a slope with a very steep angle there may be more weight on the downward side of the centre of gravity and the tractor could simply flip over. This problem is compounded by the fact that you may encounter obstacles which will change your stability such as potholes on the downhill side or rocks and other obstacles on the uphill side. Your tractor may also have side-mounted implements on it. You should keep the side-mounted implements on the uphill side of the slope for added stability. Don't raise the implements or loader buckets. Keep them as low to the ground as possible. Avoid turning uphill. If stability becomes uncertain, turn downhill. This could prevent a rear rollover. ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: Dek Thorne
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 5:17pm
| Have lots of storage space. When one tractor shows up others will start to follow u home. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 5:22pm
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Mentoring a new tractor owner is a great idea too. So many questions. I would place safety at the top of the list. Like only attempt to start the tractor from the operators seat. ( That is assuming you don't have a crank only tractor.) Then safety is really a big deal! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 5:25pm
| Common sence helps a bunch here |
Posted By: thendrix
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 5:30pm
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I traded a tractor to a guy a few months ago and he's a first time tractor owner. I spent a couple of hours with him showing him how things worked. The last thing I told him was "your azz will tell you if you should be there our not. If your azz says "no" then don't go there". That's how I was told and it's always worked for me. ------------- "Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 7:34pm
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Totally agree with the safety issue. The older stuff doesn't have the shields and guards like the new equipment. But that being said use any and all guards that are available. Being alittle scared doesn't hurt. When fixing a problem start with the simple fixes first and don't be afraid to ask for help. If these guys help me out they will help anyone. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: rpropst
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 7:40pm
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With what weather does to a tractor that sits outside , Build
a tractor shed. You will pay for a shed whether you build it or not.
------------- 1950 snap coupler B 1948 WD 1951Ca 1952B 1952adjustable axel B |
Posted By: Scott B
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2017 at 8:52pm
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Old Timer advice to me was 1). If in doubt go slower and 2). If you got there going forward you'll be able to back out in reverse. A lot of people try to solve an uncomfortable position by continuing forward. And always keep that loader down low. ------------- D17 Series 1 Allis B- 1939 Allis B- 1945 |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 5:15am
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I didn't live out here then, but the neighbors dad was killed when his narrow front rolled over on him. Out here ya live on a side hill or a swamp. I live on the hillside and want my tractors low and slow. Don't be to "proud" to ask a question. I bought an old tractor and had to figure things out as I went, there wasn't all the info or forums like this for help. You can get a lot of advice from folks on here and it's free so why not use it. your right your azz will let ya know if your in trouble!!!  ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 7:22am
I've been driving tractors for 20 years and I learn something new everything day, but I'm pretty much a flatlander here in Indiana. I guess I knew that about loaders and such but newer really thought about tires or weights. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 7:28am
Common sense: the most inaccurately named characteristic of the human race. 
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Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 7:45am
pennies, nickles, dimes, quarters? ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 8:28am
If your referring to how full the tire is filled, it needs to be about 80% full or the extra room allows a sloshing action that can damage the tractors drivetrain. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 9:08am
I don't get what you're saying. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 9:10am
...nah, he's saying it's best to keep the loading fluid on the bottom side of the tire, or it raises the center of gravity.... 
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Posted By: Bob-Maine
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 2:55pm
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Scott B has good advice "always keep that loader down low" I have put a lot of hours on my AGCO ST-32 compact 4WD this winter with the snow we have had. Even a bucket full of snow too high in the air can cause you to tip on uneven ground. Also, raising the loader with one side of the bucket caught in frozen snow can make 'er tip. Fortunatly, me and my ST-32 are still upright. Bob@allisdowneast ------------- I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 3:15pm
| Always make sure it is out of gear when you park it and again when you start it. And if you start to feel confortable with it slap yourself and slow down you get in trouble when you get overly confortable with it and stop paying attention. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 9:16pm
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Here is a list of things that I have put together over the years. It is help from numerous other people on this and other forums. I hope it can help someone else, as it has helped me. I print it out whenever I am going to look at a new (to me) one. Has helped a little in purchases of implements also. Hope it can help someone else. Sorry it is rather lengthy, but......it needs to be!! (Anybody else who feels I should add to it, just let me know!!) and THANKS!! Buying a Tractor Check List Tools to Bring: Flashlight, Wrenches, clear jar, clear tubing Prospective Tractor Evaluation Sheet Year: Make: Model: Serial Number: Asking Price: Hours: Name/Address/Phone of seller. General Questions For Seller What do you know about the unit’s history? Why are they selling the machine? What are they replacing the machine with? Do they have any manuals for it OEM Owner’s Manual, Parts Manual, Service Manual? Implements they used? What was the machine used for most often? Lay of their land? Can you deliver the machine/delivery cost? How long has it been for sale? Has it been stored inside? Any implements go with the machine? What repairs and work has been done to the machine? Who has maintained the machine (Owner, Professional)? Is there anything you know doesn’t work? jump gears, engine noise, power director pops out, overheats? What would they all fix if they were keeping the machine? Walk Around Front narrow/wide: Power Steering: Roll Shift front axle work: Tire condition: Front tires (size) Rear tires (size) Is there fluid in the tires? Power Adjust wheels work: How corroded are the wheels: Any wheel weights, if so how much? Push in and pull out on rear wheels if they move there is a problem (B, C, CA) Go over the cast and steel components and look for hairline cracks Any evidence of leaks Motor (head seepage): Hydraulics: Finals: Tranny: How many hydraulic remotes: External hydraulic pump or controls: Hitch system? Are all parts there i.e. lift latches, 3pt conversion, drawbar? Rust locations and severity: Rust painted over, pitted metal painted: Dents in tin: Missing parts: Damaged parts: Ware on pedals (match hours?): Ware on drawbar: Paint/decal condition? Is it original, overspray, stickers. Pre-Drive Test Drain some engine oil Is there water in it? Is there metal in it? Suck some coolant out Is there antifreeze in it? Is there any oil in it? Any corrosion seen looking from the cap? Drain/Suck some transmission oil Is there water in it? Is there metal in it? Drain/Suck some Hydraulic oil Is there water in it? Is there metal in it Power steering tight, how much slop in wheel? Drive Test Throttle goes up and down smooth? Test Cold Start Does it start easily: (good bat, compression, wiring, ignition, tune up, fuel flow, carb are implied) Look: Does it smoke (blue smoke=oil burning; rings, pistons, valve guides. White/black can frequently be corrected by carb or ignition changes) Listen: Ticking from the top of the engine may be valve adjustment A deep thunk from the bottom or middle of the engine indicate serious repairs The clunk should be more pronounced under load. This may be an indication of problems with the crankshaft, bearings, or piston rods. Do all the gauges work? Tach, hours, oil pressure, ammeter, traction booster (float), water temp, fuel Charging system: Should be a slight charge on the ammeter when the engine is running and a change in level when the lights are turned on (indicates the regulator/resistor switch and cutout is operating). At running speed, no discharge should be shown. Do the lights work: 6 or 12V? Alternator or Generator? Voltages listed on starter, voltage regulator, and generator Brake Test (must remove finals to service them) 1st gear high side press R brake turn to R, does tractor spin & wheel lock: 1st gear high side press L brake turn to L, does tractor spin & wheel lock: Press both brakes does tractor stop: Parking brake work: Test Running Hot: Does it run well hot after ~half-hour running: After running look for leaks Oil: Antifreeze: After warmed up shut it down and see if it will start again: Check oil for foaming or presence of water. This is a show stopper. Is there head seepage Hydraulics: Rams lift all the way: Rams extend all the way: Rams hold for a long time with implement lifted: Any knocking/chatter when the pump runs (Chatter indicates low flow and excessive ware): PTO turns off and on: Does foot clutch slip, how’s it feel: Transmission Tests: Gear popping in 2nd or 3rd is most common. To test go down a hill under load at ½ throttle. Or put it in 3rd with tractor off and have someone help you rock it back and forth, if the tranny is real bad it will pop out. On D-Series Tractors 1st gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged: 1st gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged: 2nd gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged: 2nd gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged: 3rd gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged: 3rd gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged: 4th gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged: 4th gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged: R gear high side, gear & PD stay engaged: R gear low side, gear & PD stay engaged: Power director: Snaps high and stays there: Snaps low and stays there: Motion stops in neutral: Drain/Suck some Power Director oil Is there water in it? Is there metal in it ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: HARVESTMOONPULLER
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2017 at 10:15pm
Boy if I ever sell you a tractor remind me to clear my schedule that day. But in all seriousness that is an excellent list to use as long as you use it objectively. |
Posted By: corbinstein
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 6:38am
| I buy em junk price and fix em up some. that way I don't get screwed on the front end. I can always junk it. |
Posted By: David G.
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 5:08pm
| Don't bypass switches such as the foot clutch saftey switch(if equiped). This makes it really easy to start from the ground and one day you will attempt to start it in gear (because you are in a hurry and forgot to put the transmission in neutral). Easy way to get hurt or killed. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2017 at 5:51pm
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: DanC911
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2017 at 9:46am
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Everyone should remember that experience is a VERY EXPENSIVE teacher because you get the test before the lesson. Here are two that I could have paid dearly for: I was loading my Jacobsen garden tractor onto my truck to bring it to my dad's to help him do some work. I didn't think about the fact I had just gone from an F150 to an F350 making the incline a lot steeper. Using the same ramps I used for my F150, I drove the tractor up the ramps and about half way up it dogged down so I bumped up the throttle and promptly rotated it around the rear axle and wound up on the ground, between the ramps with the tractor on top of me. Needless to say I am lucky that it was a garden tractor and not my B or WD. Now all hills and slopes make me a little nervous and I load everything in reverse. The second lesson came when I was using my cub cadet loader to move process for a new shed base. I took a scoop and thought I should shovel a little more in and top it off. You should never forget the brakes are on the rear wheels and when you have a load in the bucket going down hill you will lose brakes and steering. I have 75 pound weighs on each rear wheel but I realized it was not enough when I nearly hit a big hemlock then an unforgiving oak. Fortunate weight shifts allowed me to miss both. And for those of you thinking it, yes I know I could have dropped the bucket to the ground to stop myself. But then again, those of you that have lived my lessons well know that when you realize you are in trouble, things are happening too fast to react. So if any new operators take anything away from this it should be, back up slopes you don't trust, trust your gut when it tells you to stop, take your time and think before you act. We all love our tractors but none of us wants to be a statistic. Be carfull out there. ------------- 1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader |
Posted By: DanC911
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2017 at 10:00am
If common sense were common, EVERYONE would have it. ------------- 1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2017 at 3:13pm
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everyone definitely ain't got it.
------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2017 at 3:42pm
| E? |
Posted By: Valentin
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2017 at 7:23pm
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Where is hydraulic check on 5050 model? |