D17 Failure
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=135950
Printed Date: 12 Oct 2025 at 5:34pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D17 Failure
Posted By: mikeks
Subject: D17 Failure
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 5:19am
First post. Been reading a lot of great info here for a while. Hopefully you can solve this one. I believe the tractor is a 1962 D17 series II. Son was using it to hay cows, killed it, couldn't get it to start again. After many hours of troubleshooting the electrical I realized the rotor was not turning. Working my way through, the valves are also not moving either. I thought timing chain, simple enough. I know nothing about tractors, and just enough about cars to get me in trouble. After a little research I realize it is all gear driven. So the question is, what broke? Can I tackle this, or does it need to go to a shop? Engine cranks Pistons move rotor does not turn valves do not move.
Any ideas on where to get an online manual for this?
Thanks in advance for the help.
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Replies:
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 5:46am
Rotor? Do you mean camshaft or do you mean the distributor rotor? If neither is turning I'd say you need to take the front cover off and look from there.
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 6:09am
The shaft inside the distributor that turned the rotor is not turning. Also with the valves not moving I would assume that the camshaft is not turning as well. The only thing I know is turning is the crankshaft. I can't seem to find any diagrams of how this engine is assembled. The way I see it is the crankshaft turns the camshaft which turns a hydraulic pump which has a shaft that drives the distributor is this correct?
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Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 6:09am
I would say the crank gear or cam gear stripped. The cam drives the distributor.
------------- When someone tells you Nothings Impossible, Tell them to slam a revolving door
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 6:16am
https://www.agcopubs.com" rel="nofollow - https://www.agcopubs.com That is where you want to go to get the service manual. http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/login.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/login.aspx This is where you will fine the parts manual I agree with the comment of pulling the front cover.
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Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 6:40am
If you want some picture of the engine apart...
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=126761&title=wd45-rebuild-progress" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=126761&title=wd45-rebuild-progress
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 7:14am
THE DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEARS HAVE FAILED FROM LACK OF OIL !! LIFT DISTRIBUTOR OUT OF ITS SOCKET AND YOU'LL SEE THE PROBLEM.
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 7:17am
If while you are turning it over you see the front crankshaft pulley turning then that's a good thing as the crank is not broken. As Dan said above it's likely that one or both timing gears are stripped.
------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 8:15am
Well, if you've ever changed a set of spark plugs you can probably do this. With the book you can learn what you need to do. Who knows it might be the beginning of an exciting new career. LOL There are a lot of vendors, and very knowledgeable mechanics who are willing to walk you through it, here on the site. Between the two, if you learn all you can before you start, you'll find it's not rocket science. Tools you might need you usually can rent from NAPA, O'Reilly's and when you bring them back you get your money back, so it really doesn't cost you anything. CHARGEEEE
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 10:15am
I forget which engine but I've heard where the governor weights wear and fall off and into the cam and crank gears.
Dusty
------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 11:22am
It probably had the governor weights come apart and go through the cam gears. It really does a number on them. I have a Gleaner E engine apart right now for that problem. You'll want to pull the engine and remove the oil pan to get all of the debris out of the engine. Governor weights, pins, and gears are all available new.
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 12:42pm
Wouldn't the pistons hit some valves if they stayed open since the cam was not turning? Could be bigger problems....
------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year:
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 6:12pm
How do you know the valves aren't moving? I assume you took the valve cover off? If you are looking through the fill tube, it may take a revolution to see any valve movement.
If the valves truly aren't moving, then you lost the crankshaft gear key, or some gear teeth on the camshaft gear.
The distributor/governor gear runs off the camshaft gear, and the camshaft gear runs off the crankshaft gear. If you lost the camshaft gear key, the distributor would still be turning, as the cam gear would still turn with the crank. It is possible the camshaft gear came completely off, but I would find that very hard to imagine.
My guess is when he killed the engine, the impulse loads from the last cylinder fire, may have sheared the crankshaft gear key way.
------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2017 at 10:44pm
Greatly appreciate everyone's help and input. Got the front end separated and everything peeled off but was unable to remove the pulley off of the crank shaft. Soaked it down and called it a night. Will post more when I know more. Thanks agin!
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 4:23am
Hang right in there. You'll get'er done.
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 6:57am
I believe that pulley may have two set screws, one on top of a second.
------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 7:43am
One big setscrew on a D-17 gas.
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 7:51am
No Allen set screws then? I couldn't find any anywhere.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 12:27pm
One big pointed bolt with a jam nut on it. NO ALLEN HEAD SCREWS.
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 1:19pm
Awesome, thank you! Know any good removal secrets? Or by chance what size of bearing splitter will fit behind it?
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Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 1:45pm
I've pulled the pulley of my WD45 crank with a 3 jaw gear puller. Probably not the best because you could bend the pulley.
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 7:59pm
Found the problem, or at least the start. Camshaft gear has 3 spots with the teeth chewed off. Other gears appear fine. I have pictures, but no clue how to post them. What other problems should I look for? Any chance of the valves hitting the pistons like OrangeBlood mentioned? Any suggestions on where to find the gear and all the needed gaskets?
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 8:10pm
Also any suggestions on making sure I get the correct timing gear and gasket. How do I verify series, engine and all that? 17 41087 is stamped on the torque tube.
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 8:12pm
Call sandy lake on the supplier page they can get you everything you need. Alot of other vendors there can as well.
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 8:53pm
You have a bit of a mess here. Getting the cam gear off may not be that difficult,but getting one back on without damaging something else won't be easy. If I was doing it,I would remove the engine and clutch. Set the engine on the flywheel standing up. Oil pan off,oil pump out,rocker arms and push rods out, then remove the cam. Either find a cam with the gear already on it or find a good used gear and press it on. Inspect the crank gear and especially the distributor gear and governor assembly. Rod bearings and main bearings should be looked at plus the clutch assembly and rear main seal should be replaced. Maybe even the clutch shaft seal also. New cam bushings and oil pump inspection should also be done. Good luck.
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 8:56am
If you have teeth missing, you have metal that needs to be found. Like Lynn said, I think it would be easier to pull the motor, as far as you have the tractor apart at this point, it won't take much more work to pull the motor, and the time saved doing the work, will likely offset the time to pull.
Did your governor weights come apart?
Oh and by the way Eldon is the smart guy with the valves hitting question. I really have never looked into the valve cylinder interference on these engines, but my best memory would say they would not hit. Others may know for sure.
------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 9:01am
I think there is enough clearance that the valves won't hit. I had one stuck open in my d17 and it never hit but I don't remember now if it was fully open or just partly. That was about 6 years ago now. I just remembered part of the trouble with it was a stuck open exaust valve and the motor still turned over at the time.
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 9:08am
I looked at the governor and didn't notice anything strange. But I also did not know what I was looking at. I am leaving town for a couple days for work, will check it out closer when I get home.
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 9:11am
There are two weights on the governor. When they fail the hole on the back opens up and they fall off if one was missing you would have noticed.
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Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 10:09am
Dan73 wrote:
I think there is enough clearance that the valves won't hit. I had one stuck open in my d17 and it never hit but I don't remember now if it was fully open or just partly. That was about 6 years ago now. I just remembered part of the trouble with it was a stuck open exaust valve and the motor still turned over at the time. |
I know they hit on a D14...
------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year:
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 10:47am
mikeks wrote:
Found the problem, or at least the start. Camshaft gear has 3 spots with the teeth chewed off. Other gears appear fine. I have pictures, but no clue how to post them.What other problems should I look for? Any chance of the valves hitting the pistons like OrangeBlood mentioned? Any suggestions on where to find the gear and all the needed gaskets?
| The governor weights have flown apart and went through the timing gears or it did previously and a piece has been picked up by the gears. I'd sure check over all the other gears. A bent tooth on one gear will take out new teeth on the cam gear and you'll be back where you started........... don't ask me how I know.
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 10:51am
PS the crank gear can have a bent tooth on the back side where you'd need a mechanic's mirror to see it. Again.... speaking from experience.
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 7:58pm
Lonn wrote:
PS the crank gear can have a bent tooth on the back side where you'd need a mechanic's mirror to see it. Again.... speaking from experience.
| experience is a great teacher
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 8:18pm
Just heat your cam gear with a torch and pop it off. To put the new one on make sure the wife is out shopping, put it in the oven at 300 degrees and when it's hot slip it on the cam.
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 8:42pm
Just got back in town and stepped in the shop long enough to realize the governor is missing weights. I'm not even sure how the governor works. Time to do some research! Did get some great info from my local AGCO dealer, and found all the parts and gaskets I needed. (until I noticed the weights). Thanks again for all the great advise. Will keep you posted.
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 9:01pm
You will have to pull the motor apart those weights are in there somewhere they are what caused all your problems and will continue to break stuff unless you get all the bits out.
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 10:02pm
Before you go to far, pull the valve cover and loosen all the rocker arms. This will let the valves close. Then roll the engine over with the crank and see if you have compression on each cyl. At least this way you could save pulling the head. All the rest goes.
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Posted By: mikeks
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 2:36pm
Got the tractor up and running over the weekend. Clearly the governor weights have been an issue for a long time. Didn't realize how bad the throttle was until I got fixed. Governor weights were simple to replace, found a used camshaft gear, heated it up and it slid on with no issue. Pretty simple fix even with a lack of experience. Thanks again for all the great advise.
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 3:38pm
Mike, I think your playing with us!:) Nice work doing the research and getting this tractor back together. Now drop some pictures on us! Regards, Chris
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 10:01pm
mikeks wrote:
I have pictures, but no clue how to post them. | You need to look at the main page: http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/default.asp" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/default.asp And then go to the bottom to:
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=7&title=forum-support-only-no-tractor-questions" rel="nofollow - Forum Support Only - No Tractor Questions and then to: http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115700&title=posting-pictures-on-the-forum" rel="nofollow - Posting Pictures on the Forum
That should help you out....
We LOVE PICTURES!!!!
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2017 at 4:15pm
Most engines, particularly older engines with gear or chain driven cams are not interference engines. I.E the pistons will not hit the valves so no damage can be done. Most new high speed, high compression overhead cam engines and belt driven cams are interference engines and major damage can occur if the timing belt breaks or even begins to slip. That is why it is important if your car has a belt driven cam that the belt is changed at or near the recommended intervals.
------------- Jack of all trades, master of none
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