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Wd45 brakes

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=134424
Printed Date: 10 Feb 2025 at 9:34pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Wd45 brakes
Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Subject: Wd45 brakes
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2017 at 7:19pm
Started on my brakes. Going well - pin came out easy. Have planetary off the rt side and brake apart. Wheel seals leaking on both sides so I'll have to get those. Now to the fun stuff. Bad bearing and race at rt side carrier - didn't want to see that. Do I have to take diff out to remove that bearing?? I haven't taken the left apart yet. Have drained diff as well. Does that drain diff and trans or just diff. Lot of fluid in there.  Thanks.   Smile




Replies:
Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2017 at 7:54pm
  good luck with the brake repair


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2017 at 9:08pm
think there are a couple drain plugs under there and to get the brg off carrier it would be much easier to remove carrier.No problem once axle hsg's are off.I would just use existing shims on each side(keep in order) and call brg fit close enough.


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2017 at 9:29pm
You are pass the hard part (pins) do like Steve said.
I use a roll-around stand like below. You don't have to split the trans/rear-end to get at the ring gear carrier.





  

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2017 at 11:33pm
Thx for the replies. Will continue in the morning. I'll phone local dealer and get some more parts. Don I like your stand. Makes it easier and safer. I"ll let you know how I make out. Ed.


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2017 at 8:47pm
Well today didn't go as well. Tried for a couple hr to get left pin out but no luck. So decided to cut it out. 3 cuts to get it all but actually not a bad way to do it. Could have saved some time if I had done that right away. So diff is on the ground - both side bearings bad. Rest looks like brand new. Wonder if the oil does not get to sides well or why these bearings failed? It was original diff fluid in it but didn't look too bad.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2017 at 10:12pm
That is why universal hydraulic oil is better than that old 80-90 stuff. Thinner oil will get in bearings better.     MACK


Posted By: Albert
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2017 at 10:31pm
Question for Don !
Are you going to make a twin stick shift? It looks like you have another input shaft in the left diff. LOL


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2017 at 11:07pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

That is why universal hydraulic oil is better than that old 80-90 stuff. Thinner oil will get in bearings better.     MACK
It also runs out the leaky spots faster! LOLLOLLOL


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2017 at 8:05am
Manual calls for 50 lb torque for carrier capsrcrews. Is that what everyone is using? just wanting to confirm.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2017 at 6:19pm
I would think 50 is enough...if that's what the book says why question it?You're making less than 50hp.


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2017 at 9:58pm
Yes I am less than 50 hp. Straight stock. LOL. Yes - thinking too much.


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2017 at 8:50pm
Originally posted by Albert Albert wrote:

Question for Don !
Are you going to make a twin stick shift? It looks like you have another input shaft in the left diff. LOL

Well it looked good on paper but not so-much after tiring to install it. lmao 


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.




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