Noisy/growling finals
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13416
Printed Date: 01 Feb 2025 at 4:42pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Noisy/growling finals
Posted By: Chuck(ONT)
Subject: Noisy/growling finals
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2010 at 10:30am
I purchased a C recently, knowing it had noisy/growling finals. As I recall this was discussed a while ago and other than new gears, moving the finals to the other side was a mentioned option. Has this been done, with good results?
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Never take life too seriously.
Nobody gets out alive anyway!
1C 1 WD45 1 AC180
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Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2010 at 10:37am
I switch final drive gears on an M Farmall once. The guy said it howled bad. Afterwards he said it was much better and only howled in reverse. I would check out bearings first and look things over.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2010 at 11:55am
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I've got a CA that was used very little its whole life and it growls also.
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2010 at 4:36pm
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I've noticed that some of my A-Cs growl whenever a green tractor drives past the house... ???
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Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2010 at 6:17pm
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If the tractor sat for a long time, the bearing races in the final drives can get rusted and ruff. Also make sure you have oil in the final drive. I noticed the other day one of the final drives where leaking on my CA. It had rusted a hole through. Well I had checked the level in it over the winter but when I took the pan off to fix the hole it had about half cup of oil on top of 2 inches of water.
Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Posted By: Rogers
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2010 at 7:19pm
For the amount of work involved in changing the final drive bearings I can't imagine a good reason to not just buy new bearings and races. I don't know current prices, but I expect you could buy them for 20 to 30 dollars per side.
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Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 10:14am
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Can't believe I didn't get even a snicker... tough crowd!
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Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 10:18am
LOL!!!!!!! Big Dollars$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
I can't remeber what model it was but the bearings were $300.00 each.
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Posted By: Chuck(ONT)
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 11:41am
I am gathering parts for a project tractor, just checking options. May be a big game of mix and match. Could end up with a combo BBC, a CBC, or a BCC.
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Never take life too seriously.
Nobody gets out alive anyway!
1C 1 WD45 1 AC180
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 2:28pm
Bearings aren't cheap. To replace the bearings and seals on my D17D, I spent about $300.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: JohnDNY
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 3:21pm
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Don't buy your bearings from a dealer and pay the big price. You'll pay half of that from a bearing distributor. I have many times and the price is considerably cheaper. Try an outfit like Kaman Bearing Co. They sell to the public.
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Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 4:08pm
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Every tractor Ive been round with final drives has growled ; WD,s \WD 45,s \170\175\180\185,s ; it was either the finals or the transmission ; never gave any trouble on any ; so keep em rolling !!!!
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Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 4:14pm
Dave, I thought that was pretty funny - got two snickers here in Massachusetts. As to cost - I go to a local bearing/seal outfit rather than AGCO. Of course, my tractors don't get much use, so any quality difference won't surface until long after I'm done using them!
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 4:24pm
Dave K, better get your ears checked. I was snickering here. Dave(MA) there might not be any quality difference.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 4:31pm
Hee hee... I'll rinse 'em out, just to make sure. They probably mark their territory a little bit too, but it ain't 'cause they're scared.
I'm sure that when these beasties were built, the metal used in the bearings was top-notch, but I'd be willing to bet that the modern replacements, particularly those not coming from third-world manufacture, are as good, if not better, on account of modern process control.
Tucker- you said you reversed the gears... you mean... flipped the pinions, or flipped both outer reduction housings... and this quieted it down except for reverse? So I gather that the growl was apparently wear on the final drive gears? are they straight-cut?
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 5:03pm
Yep, straight cut, which tend to be noisy anyway. I can't remember if I switched sides but I reversed the final drive bull gears so it powered off the opposite side of the teeth. I questioned whether it would do any good but the guy wanted to try it.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Rogers
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 9:24pm
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When I said 20 to 30 dollars per side I meant per inner and outer set of bearings and races. Looking at some on-line tractor sites that is about right. If you replace the inner and outer final drive bearing and axle bearings and seals on both sides you would probably be looking at 250 to 300 dollars from a quick glance at prices.
If you take the bearings out a go to a local bearing house you should be able to get the best prices. Either way for the labor and time it takes to change the final drive bearings I can't imagine trying to swap sides and then having to do it again. That is my 2 cents worth.
Even with new bearings they are not going to be quiet. It depends on just how noisy they are as to whether they really need changing. I am assuming they are very noisy, and the decision has been made that something has to be done. If that is the case the only real option I see that is not gambling is to go with new bearings.
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Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.
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