7060 cooling
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13227
Printed Date: 01 Feb 2025 at 6:31pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7060 cooling
Posted By: 7060
Subject: 7060 cooling
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 10:48pm
| Ive got a 7060 that during these hot days under a load its been running pretty hot. Ive got a pump on it thats turned up 20%, but it was also setup for bosch injectors which this tractor doesnt have. Wide open it would run about 3500rpm, but I throttle it down to about 24 or 2500. My question is with it like this am I actually loosing power by running it half throttle to get my rpms down. With it turned up 20% it should be about 192 hp which isnt too far off from the 7580s, so how did they stay cool. I know your thinking why don't I take the pump off and have it set right, and I just havent got to it yet. Would setting the pressure back down get my temp. to run cooler? |
Replies:
Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 10:55pm
| I have a 7060 and 7080 both running 210hp. I have't had any trouble keeping them cool both have guages in them and run at about 170 degrees. It has been 90 here I pull a 26ft disk or a 24ft field cultivator. I would think you would be along the lines of a weak water pump or a partially plugged radiator. |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 11:09pm
| Do what Dans says and check your water pump and rad. Even if the rad looks clean, shoot some compressed air from the back side towards the front - you will probably see lots of dust. If that doesn't do it, think about your thermostat as well. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2010 at 6:24am
|
other than tractor pulling, there is no reason to try running 3500, or even 3000 rpm! who in the world set up your pump like that? the 20% over is no big deal, just the rpm's are crazy! that tractor is rated at 2300 rpm, and hi idle is around 2500. your tach may be off, verify with a photo tach if possible.
------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2010 at 6:37am
|
Seems like someone else with a 7000 series tractor had problems getting hot and found it was recirculating hot air around the radiator. I think there were some foam rubber parts that were missing that they replaced and solved the problem. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2010 at 12:01am
| Ive been pulling a 40' pheonix harrow at about 9 mph in the bottom ground, and its been running at about 200 degrees on the gauge. Ive been told that the pump was set up for the bosch injectors which need higher pressures, and thats why it runs so fast now that it doesnt have them. I blew the bottom radiator hose yesterday and is had some nasty lookin yellow slime in the bottom. I think it is missing the foam around the radiator on one side too, but I did blow the radiator out before I started this spring. I thought I might have been workin it too hard but its got plenty of extra power and its not lugging it, I just cant keep it cool enough. When I got it the tach didnt work but it sure did sound like it screamed, after I got the tach to working I was just glad I hadnt had any engine troubles yet. Im gonna give some of this stuff a try and see if I can get it cooled off a little. thanks |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2010 at 6:34am
|
the speed wont change that much just because of a change in injectors. the alternator pulley has everything to do with rpm the tach shows though.
------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: TexasAllis
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2010 at 7:55am
We had a similar problem with a 7000 bailing hay. The radiator would pick up dust and stop cooling. We kept a compressed air tank hany and blew out the radiator every couple of hours.
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7060 wrote:Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2010 at 1:14pm
| It has a new alternator on it so that might have something to do with it, but it still seems like it runs way too fast wide open. It does have a straight pipe on it but it sounds alot faster than my 7050. Im gonna try to find someone with a photo tach and make sure. If I tach the pto at 1000 rpm it should be runnin 2300 engine right? Ill try blowin the radiator back out again, It seems like the trans oil gets pretty hot too but the light doesnt come on. I can ground the wire at the sender and the light comes on, but how would I know if the senders working? |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2010 at 2:40pm
| Take the time to pull the radiator set it on some sawhorses and get pressure washer and go to it. Two years ago our 8030 would not keep cool we blew out with air several times with no success when we hit it with pressure washer it left a mud spot on the cement and has ran cool since. With radiator still in the tractor you can't do nearly as good. |
Posted By: cwhit
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2010 at 4:32pm
| I agree with victoryallis, get that rad off and clean it GOOD. Then make sure you replace the foam around the radiator. Make sure it fits snug around the hood and side panels.But I'm also wondering if you might have a gauge grounding issue that is affecting both your temp and tach. We have fought all these things before on our 7000 series.. |
Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2010 at 7:07am
| Been down that road several times also. We have ran into faulty gauges even. I broke down and put an automotive type guage on my 7045, but made sure to pick one out that had a large sweep in the "run range" so I knew exactly where I was. If you cant afford the foam liner stuff at Agco, a piece of foam pipe insulation fits real nice. We just finished bean planting here in SW MO and pulled a 20' Great Plains no-till drill as deep as we needed and it never got above 200 degrees. Measure your alternator pulley and compare the size to your 7050 and see if there is any difference. I have a stock pump and bosch injectors on one of my tractors and it runs at about the right temperature but puts out black smoke like a freight train even though I just had the injectors rebuilt. Anyway, hope some of this helps. Good luck! |
Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2010 at 5:49pm
| I put a new automotive type temp guage on this spring so I could keep an eye on it. It has seat type foam siliconed on on one side, but if Agco still has the foam for it thats the way I will probably go. Its setting 30 miles from home now so I won't have a chance to work on it till I bring it home, but it always stays cool on the highway. We got rained out the other night. |
Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2010 at 7:43pm
| I just thought Ide say that I pulled the coolers off in front of the radiator to clean it a little better this time. I used the garden hose and air blower and washed it 3 times and it looked pretty good. I got a chance to use it day before yesterday and it ran 180 and 190 when I was lugging it harder. I also put the other side foam back where it needed to be. I guess I just didnt spend enough time on it last time, and the air conditioner coil was plugged solid and after blowing it out the air works alot better too. thanks |