Using Starting Fluid
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=132009
Printed Date: 28 Sep 2024 at 1:16pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Using Starting Fluid
Posted By: WNYBill
Subject: Using Starting Fluid
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 7:58am
|
Just read the thread on mixing diesel and gasoline, NO NO! My 6060 has a factory installed ether injector. It starts hard, my understanding is designed low compression. I crank for 10-15 seconds, let it rest and crank again until there is lots of white smoke. Then I touch the button and usually it starts with no knock. Sometimes takes a second touch. I said touch, not push and hold. It does not knock like the Ford or IH did. What is the proper procedure so as not to damage the engine? Bill
|
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 8:36am
| On that electric ether system, the ether is released only when you let go of the button. The ether button only works when the starter button is engaged (if it's wired correctly). On a personal note, every 6000 series that I ever pre-delivered (40 or 50 of them) always had the ether injector nozzle relocated to the air tube above the air cleaner and ahead of the turbocharger. This allowed the ether to enter the engine with a lot less "bang", versus the intake manifold location. I would drill a hole in the air tube and braze/weld a 1/8" pipe thread coupler to the tube and move the ether nozzle. Worked very well and easier on the engine in my opinion. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 8:38am
|
Sounds like you're doing it right. When its cold outside I basically do the same thing on my D17D. I crank long enough to get oil pressure and plenty of smoke. Then a 1/4 to 1/2 second whiff at most through the intake hole and she fires right up with no knocking either. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 3:02pm
| Pretty much use the same method for starting my dad's F3 Gleaner. However if we plug the block heater in even for just an hour or so before we know we'll start it, it starts just like it's July with no ether. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 6:19pm
I hadda D-19 that learned how to push its own ether button...
|
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 6:40pm
|
Put some John Deere 80% in there and yeah it,ll come to life ! That stuff will make em knock , the cheap stuff is not as bad , Dr Allis is right on with moving it in the tube
|
Posted By: Johnwilson_osf
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 8:16pm
|
Was at an auction last week, and there was a JD 4010 sitting there. It was a cold morning, and she wouldn't start. The "Mechanics" tried to give it some ether to start. Put in so much, it blew the top end out. I don't think that the machine brought what they were expecting at the beginning of the auction. John ------------- Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80 8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2 |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 8:30pm
|
Why are you using starting fluid at all anyway? I have had one 6080 for 17 years so far the other for 11 or 12 so far so basically 28 to 30 years in that time I bet total I havnt used starting fluid 5 times on them may occasionally use the manifold heater but that's it. Thinking about it the starting fluid option doesn't work on any of our tractors. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 9:25pm
| What do you mean on the 4010? (blew the top end out) ? MACK |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 11:06pm
| VictoryAllis....your tractors apparently are newer than the oldest 14 to 1 compression ratio tractors. They usually needed some sort of help on a cold start-up. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 8:02am
| I'm with victoryallis, almost never use starting fluid. The machines I have with a starting fluid injector....I don't know if any of them work, never used them. I DO, religiously, use block heaters. My tractor that gets used for feeding all winter, I put a Christmas tree light timer on the block heater, set to come on about 2 hours before chore time, and turns itself off. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 9:33am
|
I think the starting fluid problem is being a little exaggerated here. It may not be the best, but it's been used on our farm for years with no issues. We still plug in block heaters when possible but it isn't always. One old Detroit Diesel grain truck doesn't have a heater and won't start at 40 degrees. One of the 4WD's on the grain cart won't start below 40 without a little ether. Where do you plug in the heater when out on a remote farm? Without a little ether I guess I'd have to drive it 30 minutes home each night or spend 10k to rebuild a tractor that otherwise runs well. I spray a little in the intake. Don't hardly ever inject it anywhere. |
Posted By: ACFarmer
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 9:58am
|
Always been my thoughts that if you had trouble using ether, you weren't using it right to begin with. ------------- Making A living everyday farming with and working on Allis Equipment |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 10:09am
Ya think??? Here and anywhere else the subject comes up,,,, |
Allis dave wrote:Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 10:40am
| Well I for one don't have a "problem" with it at all. The times I need it, like remote as stated, I use it without a second thought. Just the way I do things, I guess I very rarely need it and I like it that way. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 12:01pm
|
Not a thing wrong with keeping them warm. I mostly keep my D17D in the heated shop. Ether gets a bad rap because some people think if a little is good, a lot must be better. Before I had heat in the shop that 1/4-1/2 second whiff was just right to get it started unless it was like -10. It lights right off on the whiff, but usually die right away. another 1/4-1/2 second whiff and it would have enough heat built up to keep running. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Johnwilson_osf
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 1:02pm
|
Mack, The head gasket blew out... ------------- Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80 8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2 |
Posted By: Dgrader
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 1:10pm
|
I use ether all the time. No problems. It's like a lot of things, use a little common sense. Something a lot of people have a problem with. If ya don't know how to use it, probly better stay away from it. I'd say that's why so many like to bash it. They just need educated. ------------- Ya cain't fix stupid. |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 1:30pm
One 6080 was 14 to 1 had electrolysis so once it was rebuilt it became 16 to 1. If they need starting fluid they needed to be plugged in. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 1:44pm
| There is night-and-day difference between the 14 and 16 to 1 engines when it comes to cold-starts. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 2:04pm
|
Adding it as the engine is turning and in just a slight wiff - not the lets spray a 1/4 can into intake then turn it over and add another 1/4 can - OOPS it either locked now - didn't need it running anyway - wait till tomorrow and plug it in to make sure it will start next time ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |