Farm Equipment - D14 battery issues

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D14 battery issues

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13177
Printed Date: 01 Feb 2025 at 4:46pm
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Topic: D14 battery issues

Posted By: MeadowLake
Subject: D14 battery issues
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 6:21am

Morning. Before I spend another morning trying to get her (1967-68 D14- positive ground) started, could you assist. Yesterday the starter wire clamp broke to the negative battery mount and I tried to clamp it (mowing). When it started the clamp was touching the engine and it sparked. She did start but in about 10 minutes died and the battery was dead. Several hours later after hunting up a new terminal end and replacing it and charging the battery the same thing happened. Started and ran fine for 10 minutes then died and battery dead again. So, I wonder if the arch changed the polarity on the generator? What is the simplest fix to this -tractor sits in hayfield.

Replies:

Posted By: wayne3
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 6:40am

I'd get the battery tested. Good luck.

Posted By: MeadowLake
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 10:55am

Agree. I charged it started it up again. It fired up fine and ran for 15 feet and cut out dead. Not even enough juice to turn over once. Must be a bad cell in the battery.

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 12:45pm

You have more than a battery issue , once running the generator should put out enough juce to keep engine running. Once engine is running after starting the battery can be removed and it should still run , a way to test gen output.

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 1:05pm

If you suspect a polarization issue, put a fully charged battery in it and polarize the generator. All it takes to polarize is a momentary connection between the "BATT" and "A" terminals of the regulator. If you did that and it still doesn't charge, the generator system is easy to test.

Remove the belt from the generator, disconnect the "F" terminal on the generator, and short the "A" and "BATT" terminals together. The generator should spin like a motor. While you have it motoring, ground the "F" terminal. The generator should slow down, but continue to motor. If all of the above checks out, verify the "F" wire is good by passing current through it. I use a headlight bulb for this test. If the bulb lights bright, the wire is good. If everything checks out this far, replace the regulator.

If the generator didn't motor in the first test, try using jumper cables to go from the NEG battery post (positive ground) to the "A" terminal on the generator. If the generator still doesn't motor, it will need to be removed and checked for worn/stuck brushes, or other internal faults.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: MeadowLake
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 5:23pm

Thanks all. New battery did the trick. For now. Has always run down batteries.
So, on to the next puzzle. I had this 2000 series SN d14 tractor in for new head gaskets and this is the first time I am using her since. I took her into shop because she would run fine until the engine got hot -under load - 15 minutes and vaporlock/lose power. Starts bucking. Air/gas mix right. I let it cool down it runs fine again. So, new gaskets - block in good shape everything else seemed good. Started right up, purring. Nice idle.

Once I got it running with the new battery, and several flushes of the old gas/carb/fuel filter sediment/ I was able to mow for 2 hours without any problems yesterday. Then started to her it get rough. Then it started again. She runs well for 10 minutes or so under pto high load then starts hiccups. Once that starts I can idle her out with the clutch in but that is all. Cant return to load until engine cools. I drained fuel filter every time and did get some response (has sediment from desinegrating gasket which I finally just removed).

Today, I noticed that oil pressure starts out at 50 on gauge and drops to 20-30 when it starts to lose power. Sorry that is the only gauge that works. I only have a slight bleed on manifold side- 2nd from right where new gasket did not seat well yet and a slight drip on new oil filter where gasket mounts on block.

What to flush next? Radiator? another carb? (replaced it 5 years ago with a rebuild about the time when this started). I hate to mess with carb adjustments, always get into trouble that way. I have not replaced spark plugs yet but bought them today.

Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 7:29pm

Hmmm - I think you might have an electrical issue that's causing your engine to miss after it gets hot. I had a similar symptom that was fixed by replacing the coil. When the engine heated up, so did the coil and it lost its poop. Not sure about the oil pressure - suggest leaving that until correcting the miss/no power problem.

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WC, CA, D14, WD45