Help identifying tractor
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=131040
Printed Date: 22 May 2025 at 6:26pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Help identifying tractor
Posted By: Jcashsalt
Subject: Help identifying tractor
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 8:17pm
I believe its a 1940s AC model B but im not positive its a 3 speed 24 tires and i dont believe it has a frame around engine.Here are some numbers ive pulled off it. Am 2976 13 J or n 25 z am3208 2 am 2787 18 or on other side20 Thanks for the help any one know engine? Year or model?
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Replies:
Posted By: Brent.eggers
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 8:21pm
It's a b their are cereal numbers stamped into transmission. Right in front of the gear shifter
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Posted By: thendrix
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 8:32pm
Arched front axle is a B. 3 speed could be a B or a C. That front axle would fit the B, C, and CA.
Welcome to the forum
------------- "Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan
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Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 8:33pm
First Welcome to the Unofficial Allis Chalmers Forum. No problem! Delighted to be of assistance. This is my favorite Allis Chalmers Tractor the B. It has electric and foot brakes. Therefore it is at least a 1942. The numbers you have presented are casting numbers and outside of replacing items are of little use. Look for the serial number to the rear of the shift lever. Be sure to clean the area so that all the numbers appear. There is a page of serial numbers on this forum so you can tell the year from there. There is an engine model number on a flat place on the rear of the engine. I hope others will chime in with exact location information. Looks like you have a rather nice looking unit. You can see that the battery box, hood and seat are missing. You may want to check behind the differential housing to see if there is a PTO. If so you may see a hydraulic pump located on the right of the PTO facing front. The tractor does not have a frame around the engine since the engine was the frame. Let us know if there is any way we may be of assistance. Take good care of my favorite. Good Luck! Bill Long
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 8:41pm
Hey thanks guys will let you know what i find tomorrow
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 9:16pm
Yes, you have a B tractor... the steering gear box and rod are off a B, not a C... Your rear end has B hubs on the axle, not the bolted C hubs. Like mentioned, it is post 1942 due to the electrics.. Does not have bolt boss on the torque tube, so probably pre 1950.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 9:26pm
the motor serial number is stamped into the flat face where the motor bolts to the torque tube, left side, above center.... about where that leaf is pointing. Motor should be BExxxxx or CExxxxx .......... get that, and get the TRACTOR number Bxxxxxx by the shift lever.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 9:58pm
Ok i believe number by shifter is b56150 as for the motor number i cant find it anywhere is there any other number a a way to find out the engine.
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Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 6:12am
Welcome to the Allis Forum.
B 56150 would be a late 1941
Gary
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Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 8:03am
Nice old B for sure,very unusual to see a set of original fenders that good.
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 8:09am
What spark plugs/oil and battery do you guys suggest i use? Im assuming most model B s had the same engine? Also wanting to change transmission oils and diff oil, spark plug wires . Any info will help until i buy a Manuel thank you.
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Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 10:09am
It's got an aftermarket seat on it--possibly a Monroe, rather than the original bench. Makes it a lot easier to get on and off of. My '39 has the Monroe seat and I wouldn't change it for the bench, even though it's padded!! LOL. My other two 'B's have the bench seat.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 10:13am
I have an AC shop manual posted on line at: http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf
And a military B manual (probably IB) at: http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/BMilitary.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/BMilitary.pdf which is a combination operators and shop manual.
Any plugs that fit other than Champion will work fine. Copper wires, not carbon wires for the plug wires. Looks like it has an alternator, that wasn't original so it probably takes a 12 volt battery negative ground though originally it was 6 volts positive ground.
Vendors on this site have battery boxes to sell, then pick the biggest battery that will fit in the box for the best battery life.
A good 10 W 30 engine oil will be nicer to the engine than the oil originally specified, probably 10 for winter and 30 for summer neither with detergent because when that tractor was new detergent oil didn't exist. And car engines needed rebuilding every 35,000 miles. Better oils make car engines last ten times that now.
Transmission oil probably modern 80 would work, maybe universal transmission and hydraulic oil too, more like 20 weight.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 10:18am
Posted By: DanC911
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 12:05pm
Jcashsalt wrote:
What spark plugs/oil and battery do you guys suggest i use? Im assuming most model B s had the same engine? Also wanting to change transmission oils and diff oil, spark plug wires . Any info will help until i buy a Manuel thank you. |
Wow...you kicked a hornets nest when you asked about the best oil and transmission fluid. I hope that the nest is empty or it is a heck of a ride. Kind of like asking which is the right religion!!
I use Rotella 10 W 30 in my B. It seemed to be the consensus when I kicked the hornets nest. In the transmission I use hytran because mine has hydraulics and they are all off the same system. Again it was the consensus of the people that replied.
Good luck with the B. They are great little machines and will surprise you with how much they can do for their size. I may sell other tractors someday but I will never sell my B until they are putting me in the ground.
------------- 1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 1:13pm
10 w 30 is good motor oil.... don't matter what brand. Universal tractor fluid / hy trans for the transmission / hydraulics/ bevel gear ....... If you have an early model B, it probably has the BE motor which was 116 inch instead of 125 cubic inch.. but that could have been changed in the last 75 years... Look for the motor serial number at the back and top center of the block, in front of the gas tank.... should be a flat spot in front of the tank mount.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 2:22pm
Ive heard different opions on weither to use detergant oils or not does everyone ise non det?
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Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 2:55pm
I use not detergent. That's what they were designed to use, so I stick with it. Plus, some say it helps stop leaks lol
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 3:01pm
Ok found the motor number its be 57156 g
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 4:32pm
creston. multi viscosity oils did not exist in 1940. That's why they used SAE30 in the summer and SAE10 in the winter......... If you want to feel sick to your stomach, go to YOU TUBE and look up how SAE30 pours at 30 degrees ambient. The detergents "MIGHT" loosen up some old crud in the motor, but I think that's a good thing to get it all out... If your using straight weight "old" oil, make sure you get SAE10 in the motor for winter use !!
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Crewchief
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 5:08pm
Get'r run'n,,,,then take it out 4 a ride around the neighborhood.Let the neighbors see.
------------- 1952 B 1950 Ferguson TO-2O
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 7:17pm
Is this the 116ci engine? be 57156 g
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 7:17pm
Thanks everyone for the help plan on doing a complete reatore on this old gal
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Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 7:24pm
steve(ill) wrote:
creston. multi viscosity oils did not exist in 1940. That's why they used SAE30 in the summer and SAE10 in the winter......... If you want to feel sick to your stomach, go to YOU TUBE and look up how SAE30 pours at 30 degrees ambient. The detergents "MIGHT" loosen up some old crud in the motor, but I think that's a good thing to get it all out... If your using straight weight "old" oil, make sure you get SAE10 in the motor for winter use !! |
I've seen that video. It does make you feel pretty sick. Luckily, I've had no issue so far. The tractors all stay in an insulated shop (Stays about 60-65 degrees in the winter). If they stayed outside or had an un-insulated shop, I'd either run multiviscosity or SAE10 in winter.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 7:50pm
Detergent oil is good for ALL engines, it keeps them clean and has other additives that prevent moisture from making batteries of silver/copper bearing inserts against steel that are shorted and so corrode rapidly without that additive.
Rotella diesel oil is good for vintage engines because it has more zinc additive to give better lubrication to the cams with sliding cam followers. Modern cars and truck use roller followers and their oil has less of that zinc additive to be easier on the catalytic converter when oil gets to the exhaust.
When detergent oils were introduced car engine life went way longer.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 3:44pm
Just cracked open valve cover to discover this
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Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 3:46pm
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 6:21pm
Can't see 'em at that scale, don't have a 5000 pixel wide screen.

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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 6:23pm
Posted By: Jcashsalt
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 8:15pm
Looking for a gasket set but only seeing the sets for the 125ci engine will that set fit the 116ci engine?
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 8:30am
Nice looking B you have there. I thought it was one of Steve's from Florida that might have escaped!:) Complete restoration. We will be watching. Yea you will need to reduce your picture size for viewing on here. You can get all the parts you need either new or good used from suppliers or folks on this site. The rocker arm looks pretty darn clean! That's a good sign. Have fun with your tractor. These are snorty little tractors that think they are big tractors! Don't ever tell them they cant pull something. They will sure try!:) Plus its Bill Longs favorite, you cant go wrong with restoring a Allis B! Regards, Chris
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 8:41am
Sugarmaker wrote:
These are snorty little tractors that think they are big tractors! Don't ever tell them they cant pull something. They will sure try!:) Plus its Bill Longs favorite, you cant go wrong with restoring a Allis B!
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x2!!
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