7060 Puller
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Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=129786
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 7:48am
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Topic: 7060 Puller
Posted By: jjohnso6
Subject: 7060 Puller
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 12:08pm
Hi, looking for some help. I built a 7060 with 500 + HP. It is the black belly power director transmission. The two speed has been newly rebuilt and the hydraulic pressure turned up to 285 but it slips at the end of the track even before the wheels spin. What can I do to fix the issue. Can I put a clutch in it? Do you know of someone that can do that for me?
Thanks for the help,
Jeff
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 12:14pm
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It slips in HIGH button or LOW button?? And what have you done to the torque limiter??
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Posted By: jjohnso6
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 12:23pm
Posted By: jjohnso6
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 12:24pm
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4th gear, hope to pull road gear
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Posted By: jjohnso6
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 12:25pm
torque limiter has been removed
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 12:59pm
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Late 7080 and all 7580 clutch have 5 discs in low range instead of the 7060 4 disc. You could also consider reducing the belleville return spring count on the piston to apply more pressure to the discs. This could have some effect on the upshift/downshift timing of the clutches. If you are always in LOW range, you could weld the hubs together and combine both LOW/HIGH clutches at the same time.
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Posted By: mbachmojave
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 7:35pm
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You can connect the two power director clutches together? Can you apply holding pressure to both at the same time, to in theory have a total of 6 discs holding then?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 7:45pm
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It could be done, yes. I would remove the front countershaft gear (replace with a spacer), weld the hubs together and work over the valve to provide oil to both clutches. Maybe just eliminate the center sealing ring on the clutch housing nose.
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 7:50pm
yes this can be done- however and it is a big however, the high and low center hubs could be machined out and put together for what ever range one wanted - BUT there would have to be a way to use the low side for to start and then immediately power the additional high side. The high side is not 'buffered' by the belville washers and when any pressure is applied they would lock up first and burn as they slipped. Worked with the Hunleys many decades ago who suffered from this issue and abandoned the idea for a Crower. Doc and did a little discussion on this a few years back. ez iest way is to take off the oem valve and install a dual valve controlled by the clutch so as to apply pressure to the low side as the pedal is moved up a second valve pressurizes the high side to lock up. Another vavle or solenoid would be needed for the tranny brake... lots of work and tuning.. .
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Posted By: mbachmojave
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 7:59pm
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So this would be a good way to get more power through without having to get a director from a 7580? Doesn't the high side clutch have a different ratio some how, wouldn't that fight each other? the low and high?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 8:17pm
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My thoughts were this: connecting the two hubs together (welding or whatever it takes) eliminate the Bellville washers on the low range piston (leave the guides and seals), eliminate the center sealing ring on the clutch housing nose, and replace the front countershaft gear with a spacer. Now, you have a dual clutch that couples at the same time, with the same wave washers between all the discs/sep plates, and a support for the rear hub riding on the high range input shaft. There is only ONE SPEED with this design.....Low Range only. The clutch disc counter will be increased, but you lose the upshift/downshift feature. Trans brake would still work the same. I suppose one could design it to work for the high range (only)as well, but its countershaft gear would be more work to remove for high range.
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Posted By: mbachmojave
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 8:25pm
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Ahh right, so you have to get rid of the one gear that the high would be driving, to couple both, and then also getting oil pressure to engage the high pack at the same time as the low.... do you need a second valve of some kind to bring on the pressure to the high?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 8:29pm
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Not the way I'm proposing to do it.
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Posted By: mbachmojave
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 8:33pm
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So in your way, with removing one of the sealing rings, it will apply pressure at the same time as the low range is engaged?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 8:34pm
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 8:35pm
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When I can't sleep at night, this is what I do.....think about pulling tractors.
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