raddle repair on gleaner 3
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128065
Printed Date: 01 Oct 2024 at 5:04pm
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Topic: raddle repair on gleaner 3
Posted By: wjkrostek
Subject: raddle repair on gleaner 3
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2016 at 9:04pm
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I was combining away and broke the raddle chain. Is there anyone out there that has fixed theirs and willing to give me some pointers ? is this a one man job and are the chain part avalible? thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2016 at 9:19pm
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it has ca550 links - one slat can be removed if you have to with no issue. If the links are flat spotted , throw it away. Check the floor pan for cracks and look at the rear sprockets - if worn below the wide spots in the dips in the sprockets - they are shot. The front idlers must rotate free. The access is the front clean out door. Removes with thumb screws originally. Draw bolts pull the idlers forward to tighten the chain. Chain should have 3-4 " of slack off the floor when pulled up mid way through access panel . Late units had a Z bar raddle. Older units were square tube slats. NOW if you mean an EIII it has a wooden raddle... change it out to a metal one - idlers/ sprockets out of a K. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: wjkrostek
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2016 at 9:54pm
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yes sir I did mean E3 and it does have wood. It will not be possible to find K parts up here. So you just pull the whole thing out to work on. Can one man put it back in? Hope I can just do away with one board and adjust. thanks. |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 3:29am
| I've never replaced one myself. but thinking it over, I think there will be just room for one person. I think you'll hafta work on taking it apart and back together from the underside. that means you'll hafta lay on your back up in there. take a piece of plywood to lay over the sieves (a piece of carpet over that won't hurt either). you'll need to clean out as much stuff inside as you can, plus possibly squirt some water inside to settle any dust. everytime you smack the chain with a hammer you'll be breathing grain/dirt dust! will need sum wire to hold the chain together as you pound the chain together with a hammer. have a piece of plywood inside (about 6x6 inches) to put between the chain and inside tin of the combine. you could prolly do this on top of the pan, but it would be a one handed operation thru the window on the side. to get them apart, prolly can grind off a rivet with an angle grinder on top. again you'll want water to spray in there for any fires you may start. if you are a little fat like I am, you may hafta take the straw walkers out too. that's not a real bad job, just time consuming. and make sure you replace those wood blocks back in the same place where you took them out so they match the wear. and as Tbran says, check for other wear. good luck! (you might even manufacture sum new words)! |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 3:33am
| above response is if you broke the chain. if you just broke a slat, that can be changed real easy on the top side thru the window. I have done that before. (don't replace the slates with wood, use the steel ones. and they can be mix/matched. (wood/steel) |
Posted By: wjkrostek
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 11:58pm
| I got into it today . It looks like I have 3 or 4 broken slats and a broken chain. One side of the chain has an old break and the other is fresh so the chances are it cracked or broken at other spots as well. It's not a normal chain I looked on the net and can't find a chain like that. I will call in the morning and see what kind of parts are around. If I I go with K parts is that a different chain? Does anyone know if they sell the whole rattle or do you need to put it together your self? If you know where I should look (combine scrap yard) for these parts please give me a heads up. What is something like that worth. |
Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 12:58am
Orangereborn 964?? 192nd Ave New Richmond, WI 54017 715-247-3079 715-781-2055 mailto:Orangereborn@hotmail.com" rel="nofollow - - Orangereborn@hotmail.com |
wjkrostek wrote:Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 5:21am
| I don't remember the # of the chain size. check with shoup , and some farm stores still sell flat chain. may hafta save the links that the bars attach to tho. let OB check his stash first! it would be alot of work, but you could take a wider one from another combine, cut the steel slats down and reweld to the width needed. I think they all had the same size chain in them of that age. would hafta put a piece of steel inside the slats for strength when re-welding them back together. |
Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 7:01am
| If I remember right, the chain is a square link with a piece of steel that holds square links together. Unless it has been changed to another style it is not ag link or roller chain. Work on through the side inspection doors and where the bottom plate is. |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 9:01am
| all my Gleaners had square link flat chain with the links that had the ear that the slates was riveted to. kinda like a chit spreader! |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 9:02am
| oh...and small hard bolts with lock nuts work well when attaching the slats, don't need rivits |
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 9:11am
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Bill - Manchester Manufacturing link. Read last paragraph: http://www.manchestermfg.com/hillside.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.manchestermfg.com/hillside.html I have some NOS wooden slats but don't think I have any chain parts. I bought a NOS Z-bar raddle chain set for a K off eBay cheap about 5 years ago but it's roller chain not Ag chain so if I ever install it in my EIII I need to change out all the sprockets. It was like $400 for new sprockets from AGCO back then, no idea if they still carry them or how much. I see Manchester also sells the newer drive and idler sprockets though as a whole kit with the raddle chain. Mike ------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
Posted By: wjkrostek
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 10:16am
| I don't know how you do it Mike but you sure can find stuff on the net. I called them and they say they can fix me up with new raddle for $400 bucks . new chain and steel slats with new sprockets and idlers. Only thing is they don't know about shipping. They will get back to me. Lets hope they can put it in the mail. Thanks to all of you for your input. |
Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 5:50pm
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Posted By: wjkrostek
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2016 at 12:24pm
| I finally got the raddle back on but I need to buy some half links to make it fit. The raddle I got cost $400 and then $200 for postage . Ran it for a while in the shop and everything seems to work. But will have to wait until next year to try it out. If you have one of these check your raddle for being to loose. This repair was a pain. If you buy a chain sure you can get some 1/2 links. I needed three on each side to make it fit. The chains where the same length but I figure the sprockets must of been different diameter. The company said no it has to fit. I never could figure it out so I got some half links to make it fit. If you know why please let me know. I don't want it to go down next year. |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2016 at 3:46pm
| William....do you go to the "mocha Moose Café" there? |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2016 at 8:03pm
| I put a Manchester in the A2 and now this F2.Seems like they came with a pair of half links that I didn't need.there was some kind of extra links because the extras went in the drawer with the ones from the A2 conversion.You do have your front idlers slid back,right? Don't know why yours isn't fitting.Don't run it too tight.Should be able to turn drive sprocket by hand. |
Posted By: wjkrostek
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2016 at 11:38pm
| I turns easy. I had to take it back out and laid it side by side but I didn't have the old sprockets as I destroyed them getting them out. They must be bigger as the chain rides on the sprocket. Not much room to work in there. Now that I've done it If I have to do it again it will be a lot easier. what did you do to get the roll pins back in? |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 9:03am
| punch and hammer to install and remove.I pull the walkers out of the way so have easy access to raddle drive.Sprocket and idler should carry chain at ends shouldn't be riding false bottom there. |
Posted By: wjkrostek
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 10:13am
| I didn't take the walkers out so you know the problems I had. Only way I could get the pins in was to use an air hammer and it worked well. there is just no room. I cut the sprockets out with a torch. They where so frozen on the shaft there was no way to get them off while still in the combine. Did yours sprockets slide off the shaft? Maybe mine was worse than normal. I wish I knew how to use a camera and had a helper. This would be a good thing to put on utube (?) so others could learn form our experience. Thanks for your input. I'll find out next year if it worked. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 10:41pm
| after some vibrating with the air chisel and PB Blaster the sprockets did slide.Had to replace the drive /sprocket shaft 2 yrs ago as it broke in two at a pin hole.If you ever pull the walkers just be sure that they don't rub each other or the sides when reinstalled |