WD spinout eccentrics wont lock
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=127292
Printed Date: 15 Sep 2025 at 5:16pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD spinout eccentrics wont lock
Posted By: WDDave
Subject: WD spinout eccentrics wont lock
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 7:34pm
Hey Guys I have sand blasted/painted my WD spinout rims. When I took them apart two of the eccentric blocks were missing so I found a couple used ones, I now have all four blocks and they all measure the same at the thinnest point. Now I cannot get all four eccentrics to turn fully clockwise to lock. I can get one of my eccentrics to turn all the way , the other three I made as tight as I can but when under a load it slips on the rails and does a nice scrape job on my new PPG paint. Were spinout rims and hubs a matched set from the factory? Is it possible someone replaced the rim and the inside dimension is tighter maybe that's why two of my blocks were missing.
------------- WD ,wide front, with loader
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Replies:
Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 7:40pm
tighen the one with the least weighhht one iiiit first lower one first -then 2 side then top last
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 9:04pm
I know that these are very tight when you do get them turned into position. I had to work at it. I think I ended up using a breaker and a cheater to get them snapped over into the locked position. Regards, Chris
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 9:09pm
Start with Norm's suggestion and then Chris' advice.
------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 9:31pm
You also need the stop blocks to stop them from moving when pulling. LOL Bob
------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 7:55am
If you didn't already, make sure they are clean and oiled. A little oil will help a lot. Then do like the others say.
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Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:03am
I use a 3/4 drive ratchet and homemade socket in my CA and sometimes I have to lay on them pretty hard to lock over. Leon B
------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:05am
I put some Never-Seize on the cam where it contacts the block being careful not to get it where the block contacts the rail. It provides a little lube and makes it easier to loosen the next time.
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:52am
I had to use all three. Never seize. Adjust top one and use a big wrench.
------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:33am
I actually have an odd 23/32 or 25/32 6pt socket in the toolbox. A 3/4 doesn't fit all my locks very good. I can't remember if the 3/4 was a little too big or small... A former Allis mechanic from the 70's that I know said he used to have a lot of those odd sized wrenches for the Allis's. Said he threw them all away when he quit.
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Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:28pm
Allis dave wrote:
I actually have an odd 23/32 or 25/32 6pt socket in the toolbox. A 3/4 doesn't fit all my locks very good. I can't remember if the 3/4 was a little too big or small... A former Allis mechanic from the 70's that I know said he used to have a lot of those odd sized wrenches for the Allis's. Said he threw them all away when he quit. |
A 20 MM socket fits as well as anything I've found. I have two, one 1/2" drive and one with a 3/4" adapter welded in for added torque!
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Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 5:04pm
On one of my tractors, when I had the bolts out, I ground them to fit a 3/4" socket perfectly. I think the original wrench was a tad bit bigger than 3/4". I have a few of those 32nd size sockets also but since metrics, I just find one that fits snugly. They come in handy for rusted nuts and bolts as well.
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Posted By: WDDave
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 6:24pm
Success, I used all suggestions and then some. I never seized the eccentrics where they contact the blocks, Jacked up the wheel took the weight off tried tightening in different orders but just couldn't get the last one to the lock position. So I loosened the bolts that hold the eccentric brackets to the hub but kept pressure on them with the lock washers- got all eccentrics to lock then tightened the bracket bolts. Mike I also found that 20mm fits the best and that isn't all that great because the hex flats on the bolts are tapered, kind of looks like these things were cast and they had taper (draft) on them for the mold to release. Thanks for the help.
------------- WD ,wide front, with loader
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 9:58pm
Dave, BTW Welcome, and you did good using all the tools in the box to get that done. These guys have helped me a lot. Good Idea loosening the bracket/s! I will have to remember that one too! Any pictures of the WD? Regards, Chris
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Posted By: WDDave
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 7:42pm
Thanks for the welcome Chris, I have bits and pieces of pictures of the WD , I will get one of the whole thing soon and post it. My wife doesn't appreciate "rusty orange" but I'm sure the guys on here do. And you are right the guys on here are very knowledgeable its great to have someplace like this to help each other.
------------- WD ,wide front, with loader
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 7:54pm
Chalmersbob wrote:
You also need the stop blocks to stop them from moving when pulling. LOL Bob |
Dad used the CA for everything for 35 years and the only thing the blocks were used for was for a preset position, one for the wide setting for cultivating, one for the narrow setting for plowing. He never moved them and never had a rim slip. The first time I moved the wheels after many years, I had to use a 3 foot pipe wrench as a handle for the original wheel wrench. They HAVE to be turned all the way to the stop or they aren't locked.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: WDDave
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 8:50pm
CTucker, I'm glad you mentioned to use the wheel stops only as presets. I have a manual that shows two wheel stops per spinout rim. So I was thinking they are relying on those to keep it from slipping in or out under a load. I only have one stop per wheel I was thinking maybe I need to get two more but after having all the eccentrics locked I used it today and had it under enough load to spin the wheel and nothing slipped.
------------- WD ,wide front, with loader
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Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 9:11pm
tighten the top one first,then put the one on the bottom to the top tighten it.do the rest the same way.you can see the rim deform as you tighten them.if you have a cheater bar,use it
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