1939 WC
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12635
Printed Date: 31 Jan 2025 at 2:58pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 1939 WC
Posted By: whoff
Subject: 1939 WC
Date Posted: 18 May 2010 at 6:59pm
|
Today is the first warm day in northern Minnesota and I took the tractor down the road for the first time since the rebuild. After it got somewhat warmed up, it started not really missing but acting like it was shutting down. It would be okay if it wasn't pulling or if it was going down hill. By the time I got four miles down the road, it would shut down every 200 feet, I'd let it cool off and then go another 200 feet. After cleaning the carb and reinstalling it at my friend's shop. We fired it up again and it worked for a while but then started shutting down after it was warm. We reset the needle valve and air adjustment. When it's running, it sounds very good. I was wondering if this sounds like a coil issue. That wasn't replaced during the overhaul. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Wayne
|
Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 18 May 2010 at 8:01pm
It could very well be a bad coil. What tractor, what voltage is your electrical system,new points and condenser, positive ground, is the coil grounded properly? I could probably ask more but will leave it at that for now.
-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
|
Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 18 May 2010 at 9:11pm
|
Welcome to the forum!
As for the WC, I would double-check all of the ignition settings. (timing, points air gap, etc. Make sure that the grounding tab is not corroded up and causing it to ground the points occasionally(if it's a magneto). Could also be a condenser going south on you. I would clean everything really well, including taking the mag apart and (carefully!) cleaning all of the connections to the coil. If that doesn't fix it, change the condenser. If still acting up, may be the coil. Just double check the fuel system first. Make sure there is nothing in the tank that could float over the fuel outlet and cause it to starve for fuel. That has happenned to several, and causes intermittent stalling.
Had a nuisance problem with my C. Cleaned entire fuel system repeatedly. Tractor would shut down intermittently, no repetitive pattern. Would start right back up. Might run 5 minutes, might run an hour, might cut right back off. Finally found the fuel inlet seat in the carb was out of round. Sometimes the needle valave would get turned just right, and stick closed in the seat. That would let the carb run dry. Changed the needle and seat. Now she'll run all day and night if you keep the tank full. Hope this helps. Good luck.
|
Posted By: Bill Deppe/AC Salvag
Date Posted: 18 May 2010 at 11:16pm
|
Being a fresh rebuild, it may also mean a o-ring turned when installing the sleeve. The expansion due to heat reduces the clearance with the piston will start binding in the sleeve.
|
Posted By: whoff
Date Posted: 18 May 2010 at 11:23pm
|
To answer all of your questions and to clarify, we didn't actually do an engine rebuild on this tractor as the mechanic determined it wasn't necessary because compression was good and visual inspection and so forth. It is the original six volt electrical system separate from the magneto. I don't even know where the points are on this mag. I have the mag off and plan on taking it to our local auto electric shop which is an old establishment that has done a lot with farm tractors. Do any of you think they could test all of this stuff out? I also plan on putting in a new carb kit. Wayne
|
Posted By: AllisTime
Date Posted: 18 May 2010 at 11:26pm
|
If your tractor sat all winter it might have collected water in the sediment bowl to the point it can not get enough gas threw to the engine!!
|
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 12:52am
Get the mag checked out. Tell the guy just how the engine is acting after warming up. I'll bet money on the coil or the condenser.
-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
|
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 1:45am
I'll 2nd the water suggestion... most fuels nowdays are E10, and as a result, hygroscopic... they'll get enough moisture to wreak havoc. I noticed quite a bit of water in my B... so I got out a 20-gallon tank, dropped the sediment bowl glass, ran it down, then unthreaded the assembly and let the tank run dry. Did the same on my neighbor's Farmall 656...there was a whole lotta water in there. After draining the carb bowls, reassembling and filling with new fuel, they both run MUCH better.
|
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 7:16am
|
Dave, I think you're a little mixed up there. All fuel tanks will have water condense in them. Any fuel you buy may have water in it. If you run regular gas the water can build up in the tank to a point the engine won't run. It can also start rusting the inside of the tank. However , if you use gas with 10% ethanol, it will absorb the water and carry it through your system to be burned off as it is absorbed. This keeps water from building up in your tank and also keeps you your whole fuel system cleaner. Being hygroscopic doesn't make ethanol magic to suck water out of the atmosphere. It has to able to get into the tank before it can be absorbed by the ethanol. My 2 cents worth.
-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
|
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 9:55am
|
Im with CTucer if you can try a diff mag
|
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 19 May 2010 at 9:57am
|