Help on AC 45 Grader Power Steering
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=125084
Printed Date: 03 Oct 2024 at 10:20pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Help on AC 45 Grader Power Steering
Posted By: Ian Beale
Subject: Help on AC 45 Grader Power Steering
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2016 at 11:03pm
Our AC 45 has developed a problem with the steering.
The wheel locks up a little, particularly turning left. If you rock it gently it will activate the assist and start moving but not always cleanly. Less so on going right.
I've taken the steering wheel shaft off the box and that assembly isn't binding. Working the steering box with a bolt through the hole in the input shaft reproduces the lock-up symptoms.
I've been through the steering box itself (earlier posts here) as I had to rebuild the tapered spline on the output shaft but didn't take the worm out of the box or go into the control valve assembly. I didn't find out about the adjusting screw on the power unit until later so didn't check where that was for setting, which is 1/8th of a turn by the book.
Next step looks like splitting the front end as it looks like that is where you get to the adjusting screw. Then seeing if that adjustment makes a difference.
The parts book shows shims on either side of the "worm driving bevel gear" on the steering worm with the note "use as required". There are no details on how you do the setting of this in the shop manual I have.
Any extra information would be handy, so TIA
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Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2016 at 4:24pm
Update
A couple of cans of whip-arse and I plucked up courage and started.
You need to split the front to get to that adjuster. But not SO bad. Ours has had the lean drive replaced with hydraulics so no need to disconnect that. And the short front shaft in the steering has been "farmerised" and doesn't slide so you need to disconnect at the box - there is enough room if you take the nut off the front shaft bearing holder so you can lift the shaft. You get swearing practice at the lack of room there, particularly for getting the bolt out of the u-joint and if you drop anything. There are still two bolts in that housing somewhere.
Then take all the frame bolts out and drop two long 3/4 inch bolts through as locaters and lift the frame about six inches to get at the adjuster.
Which I reset to the book 1/8 of a turn and things seem to work for now.
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