Advice on removal of front bolster - WD45
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12331
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Topic: Advice on removal of front bolster - WD45
Posted By: Hlone
Subject: Advice on removal of front bolster - WD45
Date Posted: 11 May 2010 at 10:29pm
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Any tips on getting the front bolster / axel housing out of. I have detached the steering knuckle and support and the 8 polts holding the it in place on the front. I have supported the frame and have a cherry picker over it to support it. So far after prying, hammering, and talking nice to it I have managed 1/8" forward progress out from between the frame. Tips / Osage advice appreciated. |
Replies:
Posted By: bigfish_Oh
Date Posted: 11 May 2010 at 11:31pm
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block drivetrain good and spread frame more(left side), pb blaster
------------- 1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p. 1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe 1951 WD, factory p.s. 1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale 2014 HD Tri Glide 2009 GMC CC SLT Dually |
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 6:18am
| I agree. Make a good solid frame support, soak each side with kroil and take a hardwood block or a piece of steel and try wedging the two rails apart, and then working it out. Remember, it probably hasn't moved in close to 60 years, so it's not gonna come out easy. |
Posted By: John (C-IL)
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 6:32am
| You may even want to loosen ALL of the frame bolts on one side to let the frame move a little easier. You don't have to remove the frame rail, just loosen the bolts a quarter inch or so. I use the biggest cold chisel that I have to wedge into the little gap between the frame and bolster to break it loose. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:31am
| Loosen bolts on the left side. If you loosen right side the oil from belt pulley housing will spill out. HTH MARK L |
Posted By: John (C-IL)
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:36am
Good point Mark
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B26240 wrote:Posted By: dudley wallace
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:41am
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i took the tractor and tied it to a tree from behind and put a cumalong omn the front with a strap to my pickup truck and spread the frame a little and it came out hard at first but then it not to bad dudley ------------- a member of hendricks county antique tractor and machinery association club. |
Posted By: Allis Fields
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 9:53am
| Don't forget to losen 1 side of the motor mount. it's a angle iron piec than contets the frams to the front of the motor. |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 11:37am
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You might need to remove the lower two radiator bolts too. and now look at the radiator for leaks too.
Don ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: Hlone
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 4:20pm
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Thanks for the Advice. I already pulled the radiator (one nut on the botom broke loose and ended up having to cut the bolt to get it off) We ended up loosening up bolts on one side, and used some wood blocks to spread the frame open to give it some wiggle room. We needed to pull the front bolster to take out a shim to tighten up the steering. Now that I have everything uncovered I noticed that the exhaust manifold was missing a gasket on one side and had rusted some there :( We got the nuts off without breaking any of the studs, but ended up breaking 2 of them trying to get them out. One of the 2 was 50% out before giving up and the other gave 1 turn before breaking off. Now I need to get an exhaust manifold, studs, and gaskets to fix things right. As always an adventure when fixing one thing and finding something else!! |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 4:27pm
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Couldn't agree more about the adventure part of rehabbing these old tractors! I am waiting for a used manifold for my WD45 to arrive. Sprayed the nuts (all appear to be brass) with solvent a couple of days in a row - all but one are willing to turn as I write this. I consider myself pretty lucky! Good luck with your manifold replacement. ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:56pm
| i have removed several of those nose steering boxes.the best way is to loosen ALL of the side rail bolts about 1/4 in.loosen the front engine mount.take a pry bar and spread the frame rails this is a good time to hit the area between the rails and the box with a pressure washer.it will slide right out..i meant to say remove the front engine mount.(dont loose the shim pak) |