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1958 D17 NFE (lots of pictures)

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Category: Allis Chalmers
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Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
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Topic: 1958 D17 NFE (lots of pictures)
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Subject: 1958 D17 NFE (lots of pictures)
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 6:20pm
Local sale tomorrow has a D17 for sale. I did not hear tractor run. From what I can see:
-Gas engine.
-all gauges in place.
-steering wheel intack
-Rear rubber fair to good.
-Front rubber poor.
-Narrow front end.
-PD moved back and forth. (I am not a good judge of those).
-Brakes had 1/2 pedal.
-Snap coupler system
-sheet metal looked pretty good. Minor dents
-Grill had a tear in it.
-muffler was not covered. (this may not indicate anything)
-oil in rear end was light brown and very thick
-looks like original paint.
-Fenders had minor damage.
Any ideas what this D17 tractor may bring or its current value ?????
Sorry no pictures. Not sure if I will go to the sale. If I do I will let you know. I don't need another tractor!
Regards,
 Chris





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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.



Replies:
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 6:35pm
Chris would you get a chance to drive it? To check the power direct the first thing is it should want to snap out of you hand as it passes the engagement point. I think of it as going over center and popping as a result of that if they go softly into gear with very little effort they clutches are probably weak. The second test is a hill and touch the breaks. If the clutch is really bad a decent hill in reverse will point it right up bad clutches won't back up much of a grade.
The d17 happens to be my fab tractor if I could afford to bring another one home I would without a second thought.   
As to the value if it starts and runs doesn't jump out of gear in the transmission and the power direct clutch is good I would say it should bring 2500 to 3500. Probably be on the low side if it was here simply because no one seems to want to buy anything.   For a reference point a friend of mine bought a really nice farmall M last summer at an auction for 800. He said it was the only bid and as it ran perfect and had new tires he just couldn't bid lower. It was an estate sale.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 7:39pm
Dan,
 Thanks! I wont get a chance to drive it. May hear it run.
Your values sound about right. We will see.
Regards,
Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Rltool
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 6:15am
Go get it Chris. You NEED another project! Those WDs are all looking great & getting to easy for you to fix up. LOL
Good luck!
Ray W.

Get it cheap. You know how much fixing up can cost.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 7:30am
Ray,
 Yea that's a double edged sword alright. You pay to much to begin with and then dump money in them to fix them up. I hear you! I may go just to see where it sells at. Will report later tonight.
Outward appearance it looks like a tractor kept inside and not abused.
 Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 7:53am
Chris i think the most important part for you is to know your local market. Around here the odds of finding a d17 for sale are not very good. But I see posting in here all the time about people buying them in other places. If nothing else going to the auction and just learning how much intrest there is in it would be worth something in itself.
The one thing I will say is that my d17 is a serries 1 and it hasn't had a gentle life. It has been run on loads way too big for it I am as guilty of that as anyone. And my late uncle and grandfather where not big of fixing things they viewed equipment as something you used as long as you could and then you replaced it with something newer and better. But given that there are only two old tractors here. The farmall H that grampa bought new in 50 and just didn't have any trade in value by the time he had the number of tractors he wanted and the d17.   The H is a major project really is scrap but I will fix it someday just because of the history.   The d17 on the other hand is here because it was just too good to trade. To me that said alot. We had 3 big 100 hp tractors when I was a kid and yet that d17 was used every chance we got.
So if you can get it for a good price she will treat you right even if she does need a little TLC.


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 7:56am
The narrow front end will keep a lot of bidders away. My guess is you'll buy this for under $1500, unless they have a bidding ringer planted in the auction.

The uncovered muffler might be worth looking at too, make sure the motor isn't full of rain water.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 8:03am
Originally posted by Play Farmer Play Farmer wrote:

The narrow front end will keep a lot of bidders away.
Isn't a NF D17 rare though? Why are so many people turned away by NFs I wonder?


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 8:06am
You both have good points about the narrow front end. But too many people have flipped or heard stories about tractors flipped over. My grandfather always told me be careful with the H she has been on her side on level ground. Too many people not using good judgment if you ask me.


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 8:54am
Chris must be too busy picking it up to tell us about the auction........

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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 9:02am
I will admit I grew up green. When I was looking for my first tractor it was between a JD 3010 NFE or my D17. Having grown up green I was leaning hard towards the 3010 but the NFE wasn't something I could get past. I use my tractor on some side slopes and a NFE was a disaster waiting to happen.

Obviously I went with the D17 and have never had even a second of regret.

If you live on flat ground or are looking for a show tractor then sure, nothing wrong with a NFE. If you plan to use it the NFE would sure keep me out of the bidding.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 9:11am
I didn't think the NF made much difference, as far as flipping, on a hill side, unless you're going down hill diagonally. 
I had a guy tell me once that 2 guys could tip a NF WD over just by pulling/pushing on it. 


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 9:24am
It is all about how you drive it. If you use common since they are very stable and turn much shorter. But alot of people just don't think. I drove the H here tedding on some nasty hills and never felt unsafe but you have to think before you drive it off over the hill try to go straight and don't just follow the side of a nasty hill. But if you don't think about that you can get a wide front end in just as much trouble.   I know a few times the H here flipped because people thought they could turn it short at high speed. Then they complained that the tractor was unsafe. Well only because a wide front end simply wouldn't let them turn that short. I have given this alot of thought because of my h thought about finding a wide front end but decided against it.

What I never understood was why a narrow front was ever built. Everyone always said it was for row crops but I don't get how a 3rd wheels track helps that out. Seems to me if the front wheels track with the rear wheels you only have two chances to run things over if the fronts of set in the middle you get 3 chances to run your crops over thus it seems harder but that is just me. I never did row cropping so I don't know.


Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 9:29am
Narrow front allows for front mounting a picker, made front mount cultivators and planters easier, and takes up less space in a barn.  I'm not real sure why the NF was first, though.  It was several years, maybe decades before mounted pickers came to be.  When you turn on headlands and end rows, the front wheels don't track with the rears anyway.
AaronSEIA


Posted By: carl
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 10:04am
The NF's were for row crops, the earlier wide fronts had low axles so couldn't use them for corn and beans once they were up above the height of the axle.  That changed when the manufacturers started to use the spindles by the wheels and moved the axle up toward the top of the tire.  The idea that the tricycle tractors were so unsafe has really caught on lately, the only time they were unsafe was with loaders with a loaded bucket up on side hills or turning too sharp.  The other situation where one had to be careful was in mowing road ditches, but wide fronts could be tipped in those conditions as well.  Narrow fronts were much more maneuverable in turning at the end rows when cultivating.  And of course they were a little cheaper to manufacture.


Posted By: LaJaMe
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 11:57am
I agree that the narrow fronts were not dangerous.   My dad had nothing but. Yes you had to be more careful but he liked the versatility it offered.   


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 2:38pm
Chris, Good talking to you today, I hope the D17 you got today is a good one. Please post some shots of the tractor after she comes to her new home and don't tell the wife it there.lol

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 3:50pm
I TOLD JA HE WAS Just to busy picking it up to respond.......
Now Chris,........WHERE ARE THE PICS???  We know you're good at posting pics!!  Let's see that tractor!!


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by Dan73 Dan73 wrote:


As to the value if it starts and runs doesn't jump out of gear in the transmission and the power direct clutch is good I would say it should bring 2500 to 3500. Probably be on the low side if it was here simply because no one seems to want to buy anything.  


I wish somebody in the market around here agreed with your pricing. I have a Black Bar, 1960 D17 with a very strong engine, rebuilt ps, good power director and stays in all gears and can't seem to find a buyer at the low end of this. narrow front with new tires, and really decent tin.


-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 7:00pm
So what did it bring? 


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 9:32pm
Folks,
Don is right I did add a tractor to the fleet. Good talking to you Don, thanks for the support and things to look for.
Probably not the best move I have ever made?
Did I need another tractor? NO!
But must have had my hand up one to many times. This was a fairly large consignment auction for our area. I got to visit with all the friends and neighbors and get a hot sausage. This little D17 sat there and was one of the last items sold for the day. I had time to look it over pretty good. Guess I liked what I saw. I had set my walk away based on the prices listed in this thread. Thanks guys that helped!
Pictures coming! Hold tight! Trying to get them down loaded. I will need some guidance on this one!
Regards,
 Chris


 


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 10:18pm
Guys, here are some random shots of the D17.

Allis-Chalmers D17 as found at auction 3-26-16












I started to notice things like the drawbar hole. Not much wear.






Right fender has some wrinkles.








Brakes were not sloppy or loose and they do work.






zenith carb


Manifold looked to be intact


Foot clutch pivot was worn some.


Small hangnail on tire.


About this time things took a turn for the worse and I became the owner.:)

This is a shot of a friend Dave B that helped spot me on to the trailer I just bought a few days ago. Thanks Dave!




As new owner maybe I need to do something special. I just stood next to it!






Ride home was uneventful but the Ford knew there was something back there!


Ready to unload. and check it out.




Just some different shots.






lights?










Had about 3 inches of old bolts and dirt in the tool box.






Clutch is a little loose and what is supposed to be on the choke rod for a handle?


under belly




Ok guys give me the low down on 17's!
HAPPY EASTER!

Forgot to tell you! As I was driving home to get the trailer, I was thinking about that spinner knob on the steering wheel.
When I fired the old girl up and turned the wheel, low and behold I have power steering! That made me happy too!
It seems to have a little bit of a engine miss. May just be old stale gas? Or needs a tune up, or some work?
All systems seem to function in my early trials.
This tractor has not been abused much in its life. Original paint I believe.
When I climbed into the seat and looked down the tranny lid casting number ended in "826" My wife's birthdate. The address number on the building had 826 numbers in it. I thought this was a sign!:)
Wife thought the D17 looked like crap. I Guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder!
Thanks for the support guys!
What do you think of my new to me tractor hauler! 8k GVW car hauler style. (didn't know I was going to press it into action so soon) Haven't got the center ramp built yet.

Regards,
 Chris










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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 10:54pm
Chris you got a nice early d17 there very much like mine. A couple of things I notice right away. One you have the covers under the gas tank those got lost really quickly on mine I never remember seeing them on it as a kid. Shows someone really cared about it to put them back they look like a pain if you have breakdowns. Second the hood latches seem to be there and in good shape another sign someone took care of it. Mine has the bent corners of the hood bottoms from sitting them against the rear tires and having them fall over. Then there is the big one not only do those look time the original fenders but the ribs in the fenders are all solid not rusted out like most of them.
That is one nice looking tractor.   Now the not so good that carb really needs to go. It is the aftermarket modern replacement carb. I have one here it is really too small for that tractor and won't flow enough fuel. Trust me on this one I have fought this battle with mine. Call Steve at B & B. I know he has one I almost bout it a little while back but a friend had the right carb here that just need a little TLC.
Oh and you are missing the snap coupler hooks. I bet someone put a 3 point hitch on it once and removed it. That is how mine got taken off. I got lucky my grandfather knew where he put them decades earlier and they where still right into the corner of the barm. But you don't need them unless you have snap coupler stuff which I don't. I just think the old hooks look cool.
I would change the carb before I even worried about the skip the skip is probably electrical but the carb will cause more problems and the tractor will not have the power it should when the governor opens up. As I said I have made that mistake and can tell it I'd the smaller new model replacement same as I have sitting here in my scrap pile.

All in all it is really nice and don't listen to the wife it looks great I wouldn't dream of changing how it looks!!!


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 11:00pm
Oh Chris that choke rod had a black bakealight know on it at one point in time. My new carb is cable operated probably came off a much newer tractor which is funny because my buddy found it on an old wd. Anyway i will look but I think I lost that knob.


Posted By: Don Jr NY
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 5:05am
I disagree on the carb. Look at the paint on it. It matches the rest of the tractor. That carb is original equipment and came on that tractor new. We have a series I D-17 that is all original and it has the same zenith on it as his does. We also have a series II that has a marvel shebler on it and the series I will do the same amount of work on a 1/3 less fuel than the series II. Give that carb a good cleaning and it will be fine. HTH.  Don Jr.


Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 5:46am
Nice looking tractor Chris. The rear tires look real good, that's a big plus. What is the rod that is bolted to the power director handle for. My D14 doesn't have that. Tim

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1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207


Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 6:45am
Very nice looking tractor, I like how clean it is underneath. I don't see a guard on the power director handle thumb button making it a early D17. For safety never dismount the tractor on the right side when tractor is running, been a few deaths on those early ones when operator left transmission in gear and PD in neutral then jumped off tractor on right side catching PD lever with clothing and moving lever forward causing tractor to lerch forward.


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 6:53am
It looks like that rod Tim is talking about is a plow stopper. Find a good solid rock plowing and the rod kicks the power director into to neutral. Nice straight tractor.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 6:59am
That looks nice, straight too for the most part.

What's next for it?


Posted By: Rltool
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 7:29am
Congratulations Chris!!!!! Looks like you got a good one. This is good for me too. Because I have a D17 to fix up & I know what a good job you do on fixing & documenting your work. So I & others will benefit!!
Ray W.


Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 8:58am
So ,you ask what it is worth and you will not tell what you paid . LOL



-------------
He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:06am
Folks,
First thanks for the positive comments on the old 17. Future plans?? I may use the 17 to haul wood for the sugarhouse and for the house next year. I can get this one a little dirty and not feel to bad.:) Would also like to take it to a few tractor pulls just to see how it does. Not sure of the weight? Might be 5,000 if the tires are loaded? I think this tractor will be a good stable mate to the old WD at my daughters place, both are not restored. This one may never get restored? After having done a couple its a lot of time work and money. As they say they are only original once!

Well I about broke the bank this last week with trailer and the 17. Need to slow down and do some things around the house. ;)

Sorry for the dumb questions. Just never was around one of these. I can figure it out. I will have more questions than answers for a while. Guess I will need to get some manuals at some point too.

(Dan, thanks for the insight on the carb, I will see how this one does) I have never had a zenith carb so I will watch this one. May pull it sometime and do a good cleaning and rebuild at least. 
Have to get that choke knob. I need one for another project too so I may look at McMaster Carr for a couple 1/4-20 plastic knobs.

The rear tires (16.9-28 Armstrong brand) on this tractor are fair and will work as long as I have the tractor. Right one has some de-lamination on the lugs on a few spots. Almost looks like retread coming apart?? I was happy to see that the rims are not rotted out. very minor surface rust on the right one at the valve stem.

THANKS for the tip on not getting off the right side. I could see how that accident might happen with that PD lever. Is that why that cast guard for the button was added??

I was looking at that bar/clamp on the PD and didn't realize it was a rock stopper feature, but did look like a add on. So guys do you use the PD just like the hand clutch on the WD's? Don said if the tractor was in gear with the PD in neutral it may creep a little when you let out the foot clutch. Yea this tractor wants to move like that.
 
I did not see any serious fluid leaks under this tractor (which is pretty amazing!) and all fluid levels were as required. I will get to a complete fluid change over in the future.

Ok give me the skinny on how the power steering works on this tractor?

Also need to know what the knob is on the lower right of the dash. Its a bakelite plastic looks like a push/ pull knob?

And what is the handle on the left near/above the clutch?

Yes the side panels are a nice plus. Tractor seems to be mostly complete. Fenders may have some rust under where they bolt on but nothing showing elsewhere.

Suggestions on the grill? It has a 6 inch tear in the screen dead center. I am pretty sure this is the same grill material as the WD's. Anyone ever replace the screen in one of these?

Were all the rear lights on this tractor std equipment? One on each fender and the big one behind the seat. Right fender one is missing guts of the light. The wires are not connected. Headlights were both pointed inward (cross-eyed) both are bent and need to be removed and some straightening at some point.

The air stack looks very tall is that correct? Cap slipped right off and back on.

Temp gage is not working and the hour meter is not operational. Has cigar lighter. I think the light switch is the pull rod without the knob right side of dash?

Oil pressure looks acceptable. And its charging.

Haven't popped the side covers yet. Good to see the side cover latches are in place as mentioned. Lots of that little stuff got misused/broken over the years.

 I just couldn't leave the D17 out side last night. Had to make room and pull it in the back of the sugarhouse.

Happy Easter! Off to help Cheryl with the big family dinner she is making!

Regards,
 Chris






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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:07am
wow,congrats Chris on super lookin find.from the looks of the original gauges and the rest of the tractor,looks like she's all original over all.what a nice straight unmolested tractor!!and like b26240 said, not much grease and oil build up any where on this unit,nice clean straight tractor all the way around. and power steering too!! If i'da run across some thing that nice i would've brought it home too!!I would be proud to have that one in my toy box!!Thumbs Up ok i'm gonna quit now,starting to drool all over the key board LOL.keep us all posted on what your doing with it, and again congats on a great lookin find.  DAVE

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54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:34am
Originally posted by Fred in Pa Fred in Pa wrote:

So ,you ask what it is worth and you will not tell what you paid . LOL



Fred,
 I paid way more that the wife allowed!:)
I had put a walk away number on it that was lower than the suggested numbers given to me on here. And I bought it for a little less than that.

 And I do appreciate the suggestions as to price coming from folks on the Allis FORUM!

 One forum member suggested a $1500 price would be his limit. That would have been a good value. I did not have any pictures posted and had not looked the tractor over very well when I started this thread. If I would have seen and used that $1500 number we would not be talking about it.
I thought the tractor would go for more than it did, and was surprised that I had the final bid.

One thing that may or may not have been a factor is that the tractor =came in very late and had no advertisement in their sale information.
You just never know at a auction. Most stuff I am interested in, so is everyone else and it goes sky high! I passed on a $1500 WD-45 a couple years ago at a auction and it had way more issues than this tractor. So did I get a good value on this 17? I feel pretty good about it at this time.
Buyers remorse is not too bad yet:)
(I know I skirted around your question, a little:))

The value can be calculated in different ways. I looked at the rear tires and had a tire guy give me a quote of approx $2000 for new tires. I looked at the sheetmetal and it was very serviceable as is. No serious leaks or oil soaked engine looked like a plus.
All these things cost me a lot of money to fix on the last WD restorations.

Regards,
 Chris

 


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:35am
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

Folks,
 Might be 5,000 if the tires are loaded? You won't make it under 5K with fluid in the rears unless they are maybe only half full 
Weight:4670 to 9395 pounds



very minor surface rust on the right one at the valve stem. Now is the time to get after that or it will spread and probably already rust on the inside of the rim.

So guys do you use the PD just like the hand clutch on the WD's?  Yes
 


Ok give me the skinny on how the power steering works on this tractor?

There is a cylinder in the right side of the front end, works great. Fluid level is checked and filled behind the grill screen on the left side. About 3 inch tall plug.

Also need to know what the knob is on the lower right of the dash. 
 With the foot clutch disengaged, pull that knob out and the belt pulley will turn when you let out the clutch.

And what is the handle on the left near/above the clutch?
 PTO , foot clutch must be disengaged to engage this.










-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:37am
Chris i think that knob on the dash is added for the rear work light. Not sure but it sounds to me like someone added a second light switch for it. My d17 always just had one light on the left hand fender pointing back red as I recall but then the right fender was replaced before I can remember so I really don't know if they just didn't move the light to the new fender. But mine has one of those goofy little 2 prong plugs under the seat for a light but no work light on the back so I think that is something that was added.
As to the lever by the clutch I am pretty sure that you are looking at the pto lever. It should be a flat bar of steal about 1 inch wide and I don't know maybe 18 inches long not too long. Forward is engaged and back is disengage.   
I don't know just how you use the hand clutch on a wd but the power direct is a oil bath clutch you can pull that lever from high to low without touching the foot clutch. You can shift it under load without any issues.   I always was told to always put it in the middle when shifting using both clutches to shift just reduces the chance of grinding the transmission.   If you are baling hay you can just pop the power direct to natural and let the baler process the bunch the slowly inch it ahead with it till it is clear sailing again. People will argue about slipping the hand clutch but mine was used like that since new for about 10000 bales a year and I just replace the clutch pack a couple of years ago for the first time so I don't think it was abused too bad.
The power direct is really tuff just keep oil in it and don't slip it into the middle and leave the tractor running like that not only could it creep but that clutch isn't designed to just slip for the entire time you fix the knotters that is too long just slip it the little bit to get a bunch through and you are ok. Basically as long as the oil isn't hot it is fine.
Oh that creeping is a great sigh means the clutches are pretty strong. The oil bath clutch pack is just sticking with the oil enough to engage it in gear a little. I have noticed my power direct has a habit of doing that but my shuttle clutch doesn't. I am guessing the shuttle clutch can't decide if it wants to go forward or back but the power direct knows it wants to go forward all the time...
Enjoy you new tractor and I bet by the time winter comes you will be soo happy with it that you won't want to send it away to visit your daughter. But if you do she is one lucky lady.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:43am
Belt pullie I should have thought of that. But I don't have one of them....


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 10:12am
Thanks CTucker and Dan!
I knew I would get some answers quickly.
Great suggestions and comments about how these tractors should function too!

I have a thought of hooking to those 3 bottom plows that I reworked last year and turning over some dirt this spring with the 17.

Will look at that rim around the valve stem again.

Fred is still adding and subtracting numbers on the value:) Just kidding Fred!
Hey I might want to sell this tractor someday and make a small profit! Time will tell if it is a keeper or not. My problem is that I just don't sell many items after I get them. Bad habit!
Regards,
 Chris



-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 10:29am
 My problem is that I just don't sell many items after I get them. Bad habit!                         I don't think that's such a bad habit.I don't think a man can have too many tractors.Clap

-------------
54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors


Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 11:48am
Does not seem to have much wear on the clutch pedal "diamonds".
Sure there is many out there but I have seen very few 17's with the safety kick out on the PD handle.
Fun tractor to have size wise, enjoy.


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 4:15pm
AC Dave, I'd say the tach was original, the others look like they've been changed. 

Sugarmaker, I was the one who posted the $1500 number. I didn't say it was worth that, I said you'd probably buy it for that. After seeing the pictures thats a nice, straight tractor. I think you may have yourself a nice piece. I sure like mine. 

I put some snow tires into storage today so I even had a few minutes with mine today. It's just begging to get out - but it's early here. 

You'll have no problem at all pulling 3 bottoms either. I pulled 4 with mine with no issues - after I added the front weights. 


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 5:35pm
Originally posted by Play Farmer Play Farmer wrote:

AC Dave, I'd say the tach was original, the others look like they've been changed. 

Sugarmaker, I was the one who posted the $1500 number. I didn't say it was worth that, I said you'd probably buy it for that. After seeing the pictures thats a nice, straight tractor. I think you may have yourself a nice piece. I sure like mine. 

I put some snow tires into storage today so I even had a few minutes with mine today. It's just begging to get out - but it's early here. 

You'll have no problem at all pulling 3 bottoms either. I pulled 4 with mine with no issues - after I added the front weights. 


Play Farmer,
 I see about your estimate of what I might pay. You weren't too far off!
Think I will go take her for a little ride.
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 7:44pm
Folks took the 17 for a test run and it seems to be running better, but still has a little miss. I noted that the throttle shaft has a lot of slop and may be sucking unwanted air into the gas/ fuel mix?
drove back to the slab pile and the ground is pretty wet in some spots.
Here are some pictures after a couple runs up and down the road to harass the neighbors: My neighbor across the road just brought home a new toy a Case SC. I seen he was driving it down the road this morning.



Manifold looks Ok from what I have inspected?


New water pump and hoses.


12 volt Generator.


Found the fill tube for the power steering. Did not take the grill off yet to check level.








Noticed today that the right rear wheel is all the way inward on the rails.


The stop is there but not doing much good?






Getting used to the controls.
 I think I need a old man step added on the left side?
Tested the PTO and Hydraulics they both work.
 Could not get the rod for the pulley to move?

Beginning to like the 17 a little more:)
Found a nice 5.50-16 tri rib tire in the vast warehouse. If I could find a match these would go on the front.
I have to get the serial number off of the 17 and lock in on the year.

Regards,
 Chris



-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 7:53pm
Chris the serial number is on the bell housing left hand side of the tractor. That genorator is interesting because I thought it was painted black from the factory but that one has been PO1 for a long time. Have you checked the points? It looks like it has new wires I am wondering if it has sat enough to need the point cleaned.
Glad to hear you are enjoying it.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 11:22am
Dan,
 I havent started to look at the systems much yet. Will pull the plugs and check the points too. Not sure about the paint on that generator.
Really liking the power steering!
Just ordered a new tire for the front. Local tire shop can get a match for the 5.50 -16. Guess that means rim clean up too!:)
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 11:26am
Oh I can see it all now... you know while the front rims are off is a good time to check the front wheel bearing and paint the front support.... it will be a restored tractor before you know it..


Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 12:21pm
Chris you did great. Keep the pictures coming.   

-------------
1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by Dan73 Dan73 wrote:

Oh I can see it all now... you know while the front rims are off is a good time to check the front wheel bearing and paint the front support.... it will be a restored tractor before you know it..


Dan,
I cant say it could not happen. But I need to slow down a little on the finance end of these!
I was thinking about doing a wheel and tire swap. I have 6.00-16's on the WD NFE and the books say 5.50-16 should be on a WD. I believe 6.00 -16 is correct for the D17? Hummm?
Just thinkin!
Going out to get that serial number.
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 4:13pm
Guys,
 I went out to check the serial number. A little scotch brite and it showed up pretty good. "D17  13531" (so I think it is a 1958)

Also got the Zenith carb numbers. "229342   12217".

That's the good news. I thought I could smell gas since I brought it home. Yep there is a leak somewhere under the side shields:( That will have to be looked at in the near future. Any suggestions accepted. Tank may be rusted out or have a worn spot. My guess is pinhole leaks due to inside rust.

I was thinking about making another old man step on the left side. Did some research on line and found some for sale. I may go with a custom build step? Would like to make it look factory if possible?

Regards,
Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 4:47pm
Quote from Dan,
"Oh and you are missing the snap coupler hooks. I bet someone put a 3 point hitch on it once and removed it. That is how mine got taken off. I got lucky my grandfather knew where he put them decades earlier and they where still right into the corner of the barm. But you don't need them unless you have snap coupler stuff which I don't. I just think the old hooks look cool"

Dan,
 I do have pretty good set of "D" series latches on the wide front end WD. And a set on the old WD, not as good but still functioning with the poor man's three point on that tractor too.
Regards,
Chris



-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 6:10pm
Chris i don't know what tire size is correct but I would think the ones you want to use will look good.
As to the leak on the gas tank I would check the angle bracket on the bottom back of the tank. The bracket has two bolts that bolt the tank to the tractor. The bracket is welded to the tank and mine had stress cracks at the corners. I think I filled the tank with water emptied it out waited a couple of days then welded up the crack if I remember right.
Glad you have a set of those hooks you can get the spring repair kit for then I think I got mine from OK tractors who is a sponsor here but it was a long time ago so I don't know for sure.
There is someone who posted last winter that they had steps for these d serries tractors on here for sale. They where really nice looking steps and I wanted to buy one but my budget was too tight at the time and now I forgot who it was maybe someone else remembers who that was. I just remember thinking I should buy one of them.
I fully understand the budget repair issues we just putter along on them the best we can.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 8:20pm
6.00 x 16 looks too small on a D17.  My D14s and D15 came with 6.50 which might be a bit better.  Both of my 17s have 7.50 x 16 on the front and have a nice look without being fat.  I see you have some wet areas under the fuel tank - you might need to get it lined, there is nothing else in that area that would make such a mess.

For a good step, talk to Mike Noonan here.  His steps are the nicest you will find anywhere and are a direct bolt on.

If you really want to learn everything about the tractor, get an owners manual.  They are well worth the money.


-------------
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 10:07pm
Hi Chris! 
Way to go on scoring that D17! Clap
You'll like it very well once you get used to it. 
My dad set me on one when I was 10 to bale hay while he and Grandpa and a hired hand hauled hay to the barn. 
It went from a narrow front to a wide with power steering after we had it for awhile. 
It appears that you tractor is a 58 vs. a 59 model according to the reference guide on this site with the number that you provided. 
I have 2 out here that are "58's" as they both lack the thumb guards.
Their numbers are 8948 and 15736. 
8948 has the belt arbor but no pulley and I'm looking for one. 
I believe that you'll find a spinner knob handy for one handed steering/turning when you get to really using your tractor. 
Anyway, get ready to have some fun working it once it's up to snuff!


-------------
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 9:12pm
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

6.00 x 16 looks too small on a D17.  My D14s and D15 came with 6.50 which might be a bit better.  Both of my 17s have 7.50 x 16 on the front and have a nice look without being fat.  I see you have some wet areas under the fuel tank - you might need to get it lined, there is nothing else in that area that would make such a mess.

For a good step, talk to Mike Noonan here.  His steps are the nicest you will find anywhere and are a direct bolt on.

If you really want to learn everything about the tractor, get an owners manual.  They are well worth the money.


Thanks! I do have to get a manual for the D17. And you are right the fuel tank is leaking and will be the first project to repair on the tractor. It also has a little 'hitch' in the steering. like jerks a little at times. May just be low on fluid.
I will look at those steps too.
Mike send me info on your steps please!

Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 9:19pm
Originally posted by Jim Hancock Jim Hancock wrote:

Hi Chris! 
Way to go on scoring that D17! Clap
You'll like it very well once you get used to it. 
My dad set me on one when I was 10 to bale hay while he and Grandpa and a hired hand hauled hay to the barn. 
It went from a narrow front to a wide with power steering after we had it for awhile. 
It appears that you tractor is a 58 vs. a 59 model according to the reference guide on this site with the number that you provided. 
I have 2 out here that are "58's" as they both lack the thumb guards.
Their numbers are 8948 and 15736. 
8948 has the belt arbor but no pulley and I'm looking for one. 
I believe that you'll find a spinner knob handy for one handed steering/turning when you get to really using your tractor. 
Anyway, get ready to have some fun working it once it's up to snuff!


Jim,
 You are correct I had the wrong year. It is a 1958 model. Already getting used to the spinner and the power steering too!:)
Man she sure sounds nice at wide open throttle coming back to the barn! Dad would have liked this Allis tractor. Dads big tractor was a 1970 Ford 5000 and if you ever sat on one and looked over the hood the style looks a lot like the D17!
I think I have to get that old set of three bottoms on this tractor and plow some ground!
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 9:55pm
You think that it sounds nice now running wide open, wait until you open it up with the plow on the back! It'll really snort then and you'll go to sleep with a big grin on your face, if you go to sleep at all that night after plowing with it that first day!
BTW, high 2nd is faster ground speed than low 3rd. 
Side story: 
When we had ours as I was growing up, dad found out that he needed to take an extra set of spark plugs to the field with him when he went to plowing or discing. 
It seems that after light work for quite awhile on haying or planting, after a few rounds with the plow or disc(14', maybe 16'), it'd really work the engine and heat it up which would "knock the plugs out", as dad would say, as they'd go to misfiring. So, he'd stop where ever he was in the field, wait for the engine to cool down, and change the plugs in the middle of the field. He'd gap the plugs with his pocket knife many a time and I watched him do it plenty of times & it ran just fine. 


-------------
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 9:59pm
Link to Mike Noonan's steps...
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115066&KW=steps&PID=947300&title=tractor-steps#947300


-------------
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 10:08pm
Jim,
 Your dad and mine would have gotten along good. That's a great story! My dad only changed plugs or put a jumper on the  WD45's plugs, made from a match book cover to get the spark to jump and clean a fouled plug. Amazing how much work these tractors did with minimal maintenance. Dad never changed the oil he just kept adding as it slowly leaked out various places!
Guess I am going to have to move plowing up the list of things to do. There is about 5 acres behind the house that the neighbor might let me plow? May try to shine those old three bottoms up with the D17. If I do I will get some pictures too.
Regards,
Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 10:12pm
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

Link to Mike Noonan's steps...
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115066&KW=steps&PID=947300&title=tractor-steps#947300


Not sure why this won't work? I am not great at hyperlinks.
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 10:18pm
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115066&KW=steps&PID=947300&title=tractor-steps#947300%20" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115066&KW=steps&PID=947300&title=tractor-steps#947300

-------------
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 11:05pm
One more thing Chris. 
Please wear hearing protectors when plowing. 


-------------
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:06am
Dseries4,
 Thanks for adjusting the link. Those are nice looking steps!

Jim,
What did you say?:) I will do that.
Regards,
Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:14am
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

Link to Mike Noonan's steps...
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115066&KW=steps&PID=947300&title=tractor-steps#947300


Not sure why this won't work? I am not great at hyperlinks.
Regards,
 Chris


 When it is in black like that, it isn't a live link. All you have to do is copy the entire link by left clicking on it and dragging your mouse to the end, then paste it in the url (address box) at the top of the page.
 With mozilla Firefox, you can left click, drag to the end, which highlights it, then right click on the highlighted part and you get a drop down menu. Click open link in a new tab, and you have it.


-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:20am
Those non active links are really hard to copy when you use a cell phone it tends to over run the ends of the selection area. It is much nicer if people use the little globe with the chain link icon and make it an active link.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:14am
You guys are way to high tech for me!:)
I am starting to remove items to get the gas tank off.
Is there a way to change the title of a thread? Or maybe I should start a new one about this tractor?
Anyway this gas tank needs fixed or replaced. Cant have that. I see there is a used one on ebay for $100 too. The underside looks very good.
So I am going to remove the hood panels including the center bar. the hood band has been loosened and I guess one or both the side panels will need to come off to get to the bottom tank bolts. Will try to get some pictures as we progress on the tank.
Fighting head and chest cold today! Had to come in a warm up.
Regards,
 Chris





-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:19am
If you go back to the first posting you made and click the edit link it will allow you to change the tittle of the tread. Took me a while to figure that one out.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:25am
Dan,
Well that was easy! Thanks! Hope I didn't loose or confuse too many folks by changing the title of this thread. (Was D17 early value) Which was appropriate before I drug it home:)
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 11:35am
Hi Chris. 
Here's what to do for the head and chest cold:
Liquify 2-3 lemons in a blender half full of water.
Add 1 tblspn of pure maple syrup per lemon
Add 1 tblspn of cream of tartar-it's found in the spice rack at the store unless your wife has some in the cabinet.
Add 1 tsp (or more if you like spicy) of ground red pepper-which is cayenne. 
After it's mixed, fill blender full of water. Mix. 
Pour a 16oz glass and drink it while it's at room temp to assimilate in your body easier and faster. 
Put rest in the fridge and drink a glass every 2-3 hours. 
This will take care of the head cold, sinus infections, bust a fever, ear infection, probably within 2-3 hours depending upon how plugged you are.
Drink plenty of white grapefruit juice to clean the body's lymphatics out in order for the body to eliminate waste toxins from the cells. 
This does to your lymphatics what Drano does to your plugged house plumbing. Cleans it out to the walls for easier drainage. 
You'll have enough when it doesn't taste good. Wait a week and it will again. Add salt to it if it's too tart in the beginning to sweeten it up. 
The lymphatic system is the body's waste system, and if it's plugged, it creates a recycle of the internal cellular waste, thereby getting sick easier with almost everything that comes along. If this is cleaned out, it's a lot harder to catch something. 
The above is our "go to" recipe if we come down with something unexpectedly.  We haven't had the flu for years and years. Or any flu for that matter. 
For the chest cold:
In a 16oz glass, add "about" 1-2 tblspns of Bragg's apple cider vinegar and fill it up with Welch's grape juice. Drink a glass 2-4 times a day. 
Also, whole "bunch" of celery from the store. 
Separate and clean the stalks,(leaves too), and add to blender in a little water,(or can of tomato juice),  and liquify the whole thing.  This will be a home made V8 .
Add a can of tomato juice with or w/o the tomatoes.
1 onion. 
Garlic powder or a garlic section.
Tsp or more of ground red pepper.
Tblspn of Bragg's ACV.
Add in a few taps of tumeric.
Mix and drink a glass every few hours. 
Liquified beets and beet juice will also help clear out the bronchials as well as the above. 
Also, if you have someone in your area that makes Colloidal Silver, see if they can make you some. You supply the distilled(or spring)water and jar, of course. 
Just an oz or 2 , once or twice a day is all that it takes. 
If not, I got my Colloidal Silver Generator from The Silver Edge and made my own. 
It takes about 3 hours. 
Steve Barwick is the owner. 
It saved my behind 2 yrs in a row when I came down with walking pneumonia. 
1st year was just here for 4 weeks and then a friend sent me some to take. 
I could tell in a day or two of feeling like I want to go do something and not be wore out just from walking in a normal day.
Had the chance to get one after I cleared up as I saw the results. 
We did as an investment to save on dr bills unless absolutely necessary.
Glad that I had it and made my own! 
I was hit unexpectedly again in 2014 and this time I was ready and had it kicked out in about 2 weeks or a little less. 
Steve loads you up on info on all of the things that colloidal silver helps bring relief from. Just get on his email list. 
So, using the above regimens as needed, and a chiropractor visit now and then as needed, (I'm flexible and real limber), we don't have any medical bills to speak of nor prescriptions of any kind. 
I think that you'll find these recipes very helpful once you get going on them. 



-------------
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!


Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 12:29pm
One more thing, Chris, to help you out. 
There is a junction point of the nerve network under each armpit about an inch or two down to about the 1st or 2nd rib.
There are nerves that go to the lungs there. 
Massage these points like you're giving yourself a good scratch for about 20-30 seconds through the day as you think of it. 
This will stimulate the lungs and loosen the phlegm for you to cough out. 
Whichever side is the most "sore", that's the the lung that's plugged the most. 
Do this until there's nothing being coughed out. 


-------------
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

You guys are way to high tech for me!:)
I am starting to remove items to get the gas tank off.
Is there a way to change the title of a thread? Or maybe I should start a new one about this tractor?
Anyway this gas tank needs fixed or replaced. Cant have that. I see there is a used one on ebay for $100 too. The underside looks very good.
So I am going to remove the hood panels including the center bar. the hood band has been loosened and I guess one or both the side panels will need to come off to get to the bottom tank bolts. Will try to get some pictures as we progress on the tank.
Fighting head and chest cold today! Had to come in a warm up.
Regards,
 Chris 

Seeing as you'll be doing this much you might just as well keep going and do the full re-paint. 

Am I helpful? LOL

True story; 

My real job is on the road industrial sales. About 20 years ago I needed a new car for work so I sold my plow truck, thinking I'd find a cheap replacement. Winter was coming fast and I hadn't had any luck finding a truck. I was getting desperate and finally took the next thing I could find, a totally rusted out real piece of work '77 F150. It had a 460 literally just setting in the engine bay, the gas tank was an old beer keg setting in the bed of the truck with a rubber hose running under the cab up to the carb. It started life with power steering, there was no PS pump on the truck. 

A buddy of mine gave me a ride to pick it up. I got it home in one piece and kind of wondered what I had gotten myself into when my buddy says..."hey, I have that Kansas cab - I'd donate it if you want to fix that thing up". 

Well...that got the wheels turning and the following Spring it came into the garage and got a full frame-off show quality restoration - all because someone was "helpful". 

My point - I'm not suggesting you to do something I haven't already done myself. Wink


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 4:02pm
Play farmer don't tell Chris he needs to do the full paint until after he tells us he has all then parts off and spread all over the shop... we can tell him to just paint the tank because you see that from the drivers seat. Then once he gets ready to test fit that he will realize with the new front tires and freshly painted tank he has two really nice looking parts.... we need to stretch it out then I won't feel so bad about the fact that I haven't fixed mine up yet.


Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 7:02pm
Chris,
I thought you were going to buy that little B?  Now I have tractor envy!  Nice tractor my friend.  Sounds like you're tackling it straightaway.  I look forward to seeing her in action.  Now I need a D-series...
Best,
Steve


-------------
1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 7:27pm
Everyone needs a D serries or two.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:29pm
Ok folks, I see some of you found me after the name change to the thread!
This tractor kept me busy most of the day, so I am catching up.
First we need to change Jim H's name on here to Dr. Jim? Wow just reading his remedies I feel much better! Thanks Jim.

Next on to the paint issue!:) The goal right now is to fix the leaky tank!
 I do have parts all over! It's not as easy to take the tank off a D series as the old WD's. Hoods off, Center hood support off which holds the wiring and the exhaust support, both side panels off. Tank band off, gas line disconnected. Now you can pull the tank!





This is a positive ground system.


Center bar front support bolts these should be fun to get back in place.


Drain the tank, a slow process but I have all day. I am retired or tired not sure which, sometimes both!:)


Wires for lights.


Hood center bar out of the way.


Exhaust support bracket is bolted to the center bar. All bolts came out OK.
After looking closer I see some layers of orange paint on the engine block. May have had engine work done at one time??


Tank is almost free.


Right side panel off. Mr yuck in there. Had a brand new voltage regulator but they sure did not have the time to clean years of oily dirt out. This has to get a little cleaning before going back together!




Under side of tank was damp not dripping.


No obvious leak points.


Ok tank is off and inverted to take a look. Yep someone had a leak before and the bracket is soldered to the tank. Pretty nice looking work but all the vibrations over the years still makes this area suspect number 1.




Scratched the layers of crud off and found only good steel. Also inside of tank looked brand new. But I could see the four spot weld marks from the factory where the bracket was attached.


Ok this may not be the way to do it. But is how I tested it.
Gas cap on tight inverted tank and gently blew air into the tank through the sediment bowl outlet. Closed the sediment bowl petcock trapping some air in the tank.  Brushed soapy water around the bracket and found at least two spots where bubbles were being formed.






Next steps will  be to decide method of the repair. I had real good luck brazing a WD tank in the same area. But the old solder may be hard to get rid of? Have filled and rinsed tank with water once and will have air hose full on inside the tank when any heat is applied.

Scraped and cleaned the area between the panels under the tank.


Its a little better than what is was under the tank area.  A half gallon of crud removed.


So I will keep the new paint in mind, but I do know what it takes to make them look good, and you have to touch every piece many times! This tractor is going to stay in her work clothes for a while. She has some plowing to do!

Hey Steve,
 That abandoned Allis "B" is still setting there in a field. I need to at least get some pictures! What a project that would be! Not a labor of love just a labor!

Just to let you know I had to get some of the other off color toys out too! 

New hand grips for the David Bradley. But it started smoking when I was putting it away? Need to look into that. This was abandoned for 40 years. I drug it home last fall.


Massive Briggs Model N engine. Rebuilt the carb was the major work done to it.


Removed snow blade from the Ford. Chains will stay on for a while. very wet around here.


This one is for Play Farmer.
Had to bring these toys home from storage today too. Drove the 147R with implements on carts about 3/4 mile. Should have had ear protection! It is obnoxiously loud!!
 Like Play Farmers story. This Cub Cadet should never have been brought home. It was in very bad shape. And the implements I gathered up were not much better. I have hundreds of hours in this play train. Sure was nice when she fired up today only needing a battery charge.:) Priceless!





Barrel cart works good for the grand kids. Rhett should like it this summer too.

 
Regards,
 Chris



-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:42pm
I would not repaint that tractor, looks like a good original.  Once you have the tank patched, you might also want to consider getting the inside lined so you can prevent any new leaks from forming.
Before you put the tank back on, look at all of the wiring in that area VERY closely.  Nice love making nests in that area under the gas tank and will chew on the wires.  I've had a few tractors where this has happened.  In the winter time, I usually remove one side shield to prevent mice from making a nest there (it is no longer a hiding place for them).


-------------
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:42pm
I like the tractor train. I can see me doing something like that if I ever have grandkids...or maybe just for fun.



Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 10:01pm
Have to say the train is really cool. Looks like you got well equated with the 17 today. Those top center prices go back in pretty easy the front sets in and holds it. I set the front in place used a punch to line up one bolt on the back verified the front and started bolting it down done that a few times before I put the punch in one back hole to line it all up it wasn't alot of fun. I am just impressed you got the screw that holds the tank strap out. Mine where soft and the heads just twisted wasn't a pretty site. I think one is still stuck and the other was wrecked on mine and try to find those fine thread with a taper cut in the end couldn't ofcouse I don't know what they are called which makes it much harder to fine them but man do they align alot nicer then a modern bolt.


Posted By: clintr
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 10:26pm
There was an update on the fuel tanks on the D17's where they used a clamp and a spring setup to hold the tanks down due to them cracking down where yours did.  The later tractors had that from the factory as far as I know.


Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 10:52pm
You're welcome Chris! Wink
These things and a kidney stone flush & a gall stone flush is what I learned from my homeopothist chiropractor that I've been with for 28 yrs. 
You can also flush your body with a gallon of orange , cranberry, and apple juice, besides grape and grapefruit to get things moving, which is what you want. 
BTW, if one has a headache that aspirin won't touch, your can drink the white grapefruit juice to relieve it as it's a toxic headache from fumes and such. 
Also, if one has really been doing strenuous work and ends up with sore muscles and body at night, drink Bragg's ACV straight or mix it with water, apple or grape juice as it's a natural pain reliever. 
Watching you work on your D17, I'm wondering if you're moving muscles that haven't been moved for awhile which would lead to them being sore from use. Smile


-------------
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!


Posted By: WD45Diesel57
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 7:42am
that is one nice unmodified D17, looks like It was well taken care of. its in good hands now, looking forward to see your detailed photos and progress

-------------
1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 9:50am
Dr. Jim,
Thanks for the additional remedies, I may need them!
The Allis project is on hold today. Raining here and having fun with the Great grandson. Going to help a friend work on a off color Green tractor this pm. Will assist in installing the sheet metal to make this into a orchard tractor.
Regards,
 Chris





-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 9:56am
You are making the green one into an orchard tractor right not the d17? From what I was told orchard d17 tractors where not very popular because they where just too tall. Mine is a orchard trade in that the dealer converted back into a normal d17 still had the orchard exaust and cover over the factory exaust when I was a kid.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 10:06am
Yes the Green one is going to be a orchard! My guess is a D17 orchard would be rare And tall too!
Better see if you can find those old orchard panels for your tractor. Wouldn't that be something if they were still around!
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 8:30pm
Folks,
Not much action today, but did get a chance to work on the gas tank this evening.
Put a air hose in the filler port with tank upside down. Let that purge for 15 minutes or more.
 Got out the old soldering irons and started on the solder around the bracket. What I found worked the best was the liquid flux Stay-Sil, I believe is the brand name. Was using paste and the solder would not hardly flow. The liquid flux brought out the impurities in the joint. It may not be pretty but we are gas testing it right now. If there are no leaks this is how its going back on the 17.





Hope things are good in Orange land.
Regards,
 Chris




-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 8:38pm
Chris next time you have trouble with solder try c - flux it works great. I have never seen any flux that works better.
http://www.rectorseal.com/c-flux/" rel="nofollow - http://www.rectorseal.com/c-flux/


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 9:06pm
Dan,
 Thanks for the recommendation on the flux!
 I would have liked to braze this joint, but with the solder already there I might never get the joint clean for braze?
Just went out and checked. Its been a hour and with 2 gallons in the tank the area around the bracket is dry!!!!
Regards,
 Chris



-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 10:52pm
Thats always a good sign. 


Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 11:21pm
Looks good Chris. I hope it works.
Did you use a torch to solder with?
Thanks,
Mike

-------------
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,


Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 7:12am
That looks great to me. Hope it seals it up. Soldering good is a skill I need to learn. Probably need to buy a good soldering iron to start with...


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 7:14am
Originally posted by allischalmerguy allischalmerguy wrote:

Did you use a torch to solder with? Thanks, Mike

He said.....

Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

Got out the old soldering irons and started on the solder around the bracket. Regards,  Chris


As usual Chris, it looks great!!  Sure wish I had P/S on mine!  Steers really HARD!  I got mine last fall and haven't been able to work on it yet.  I'm hoping it's just a grease thing.  We'll see.  The batter box and all of the metal that keeps the battery on mine is junk!  I'm gonna have to fabricate one as I don't trust the one in there.  The battery looks like it might fall and I don't want any sparks around that gas tank!


-------------
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 9:16am
Chris I did not read all of the posts, if this was already addressed, forgive me. I spent 22 years in the farm tire business, the reason the left rear tire looks like that-- The tractor was ran up and down a paved road, left rear was on paving and the right rear was on the shoulder. It is common with that brand of tire, It should give you years of service.   


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 11:16am
Originally posted by HD6GTOM HD6GTOM wrote:

Chris I did not read all of the posts, if this was already addressed, forgive me. I spent 22 years in the farm tire business, the reason the left rear tire looks like that-- The tractor was ran up and down a paved road, left rear was on paving and the right rear was on the shoulder. It is common with that brand of tire, It should give you years of service.   


Tom,
 Thanks!
These rear tires have a few ratty areas but for the most part they are way better than some I have seen. With pretty good tread depth left on them. I know armstrong may not be a top brand, but I cant be to choosy.
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 11:27am
Folks,
 I took a few lessons on soldering from a friend. Having some old soldered maple syrup pans I needed to learn this skill to make my own repairs. So at flea markets/ garage sales, I would pick up old copper soldering irons to add to the collection.
Currently the solder is still looking good on this tank repair, no seepage of gas from the bracket area. Ready to begin re-assembly.

Ted I was really surprised, and tickled, to get the power steering option on this tractor.  Obviously I didn't know much about this option as I reviewed the tractor prior to the sale. Dumb question? Does it use std automotive power steering fluid?? I need to remove the front grill and check the level.

Just remembered another question. There was another post from a guy that is almost done with a awesome looking D17 Series I and the hood decals were different than mine. Are these the correct ones on mine with the dot at each end?

Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 11:38am
Chris ATF or hydraulic oil in the power steering.   Hydraulic oil in the hydraulic pump and power direct clutch as well. I use gear oil in the transmission and finals.   Some people use hydraulic oil in the transmission.   There was a service update at one point to use hydraulic oil but I feel the big gears are better served by gear oil.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 2:12pm
Folks,
Ok I took the grill off the D17 and wanted to check the power steering fluid level. taking the cap off I found it packed with steel wool type material. Like a vent. So do I have to unscrew the vent tube from the casting to check the level?

Not my day! I tightened one gas tank bolt and it started leaking in the other corner of the bracket near the tank:(. Obviously that soldering is not robust enough to solve that leak. Have to take another run at this issue.
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 2:15pm
Chris i used JB weld for gas tanks on one to fix that leak you are talking about. It has been about 6 years and it still doesn't leak there I did get the tank lined as well.
Yes unscrew the hex nut and then put the vent assembly back together.   Fill just over the gear.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 2:22pm
Originally posted by Dan73 Dan73 wrote:

Chris i used JB weld for gas tanks on one to fix that leak you are talking about. It has been about 6 years and it still doesn't leak there I did get the tank lined as well.
Yes unscrew the hex nut and then put the vent assembly back together.   Fill just over the gear.


Dan,
 You are on the ball as usual! Now where is my big Cresent to remove that vent tube?
I might consider the JB weld on that tank leak too. Dang Solder really should work for that.
Remember if it was easy everyone would be working on tractors.
Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 2:43pm
Solder is very soft and it doesn't stick to steel nearly as well as one would imagine. You can try silver solder, but you'd have to remove the existing solder first. It would be easier to just line the tank.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 5:38pm
Doug,
I am stubborn,  took the tank off and cleaned the joint again. I could see where I had not done the best job on the joint. Re-soldered the bracket making sure I had solder up onto the bracket better. Re filled tank and bolted it in place, seems to be Ok at this point.
Thanks for the support!

Have the grill off and found that the screen ( expanded metal) is flat rather than the same raised screen in the WD's.

Regards,
 Chris


-------------
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 9:16pm
Boy, that is one nice looking tractor. My vote is to get it mechanically sound, and then use it as is.

But, seeing what you did with the WD's, just think of the potential with the quality of work you do, and the time and patience you have.

Tough call. Whatever you decide will be great. Keep the pictures flowing!

-------------
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H



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