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H3 160 cu in gas engine build

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=120652
Printed Date: 27 Jul 2025 at 11:06am
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Topic: H3 160 cu in gas engine build
Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Subject: H3 160 cu in gas engine build
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:33pm
All,

Starting a build thread for my H3 160 cu in gasser.  I think there may be some differences from the tractor D15 II.  Check it out.

For staters, my engine had to pistons stuck, which can be found in an earlier thread, but this one is for the rebuild.

Here is the block stripped and ready to be sent out to get cleaned and cracked checked.



Replies:
Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:36pm
Here are all the casting numbers and stampings on the block.


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:37pm
More


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:38pm
Another


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:40pm
Last


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:41pm
Appearently this motor has been rebuilt at least twice before.  Not sure about the crank and another regrind....


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:43pm
Second grind


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:44pm
Crank casting number


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:47pm
Here is where I see a problem with my dozer.  Looks like someone put a tractor cam in it as there is no lobe for the mechanical fuel pump.  The previous owner blocked this off and used an electric pump.  I dont want to use a electric pump.  Where do I get a cam with the fuel pump lobe?


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:48pm
Exterior fuel pump boss and hole, and cam without corresponding lobe??


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:51pm
Oh, and a tool I made with my $500 auction lathe from last summer, for driving out the cam bearings...

Is the middle bearing supposed to be copper and the outer two babbit??


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 9:53pm
Anyway, any comments would be appreciated, especially pitfalls, etc...

What I do know is the 160 engine kits seem to be more costly.

Who will have the most parts I need at a reasonable price.  One stop shop, etc..??

The block goes in this week, will update when that comes back..

cb1


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2016 at 11:42pm
So far,

$350 for overhaul kit except Mark II,

$1075 for Mark II,

Holy crappers....

$700 for 11 cubic inches...

cb1


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 5:08am
Originally posted by OldSchoolRecovery OldSchoolRecovery wrote:

So far,

$350 for overhaul kit except Mark II,

$1075 for Mark II,

Holy crappers....

$700 for 11 cubic inches...

cb1

Does the right cam come with the kit, fer that $700?


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 12:22pm
Nope


Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 4:15pm
Old School:  I don't have this on fact, but was told at one time Allis thus Agco did not release the 160 gas engine kit to aftermarket production.   On the other hand 149 kits were released and therefore the lower cost in the aftermarket production.  Why the difference...?  Perhaps someone on the former Allis dealer side could explain this better than I.   There is enough talent on this board and members that could probably machine the 160 liner without too much effort. 

The 160 gas can be found in other industrial units and I suspect that if you need to have the fuel pump then a source might be someone parting a 160 gas industrial block.   Have you checked with Tony's tractors - he did advertise at one time on this site. 

Since the 160 gas uses the TSX 815 updraft carburetor it would be reasonable to assume that gravity feeding the carb would work thus eliminating the absolute need for the fuel pump ~ unless you intend an application for the dozer where you will be on severe grades. 

More questions...let us know.  

Orangeman




Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 4:26pm
Orangeman,

Thanks for the reply.

At first, I too didnt understand why it would not have been gravity fed, and then thought, yes, dozer sometimes get themselves upended in ditched, etc and if you were there for a while, the carb could run dry.

Here is a dumb question.  Will the 149 kit work in my block?? or is the block bored bigger for bigger liners??

Quite a big hit in hp, so probably wont go that route.  Probably just bite the bulllet and get the overhaul kit.  Just  found one for $1038, so thats $35 less than the last one I found.

I am also going to check with the shop I am taking the block to.  They are in farm country (Antigo, WI) and maybe they have different answers.

Going to have them look at the crank and see what they say about 040 on the rods.

If I had sleeves made, I would have to get pistons anyway as two got distroyed on the dissassembly.

Thanks,

cb1


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 4:29pm
Oh, and I forgot.  I think the cam is a crawler only deal, unless someone knows what other model(s) cam with a manual fuel pump.

cb1


Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 4:46pm
Old School:  Some more to share - in discussion with the Factory personnel, was told that the 160 gas engines did find some Military application.  As such, the military wanted to insure positive pressure to the carb.   I have not been able to confirm the Military application of the engine, but did find it in stationary power units and used also for irrigation applications. 

I have a unused 149 kit in the garage and could mic the dimensions if that would help. 

Would like other forum members  comment on whether an 160 block can use the 149 liners and pistons - there is a substantial cost savings to be had between the 149 and 160 overhaul kits. 

Hopefully, others will come in here to chime in. 

Good Luck this will be a good post to follow...Orangeman


Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 4:50pm
Old School: Check on the Forklift side of things - as some of the Allis Forklifts used a 160 gas engine.  Not sure of the forklift models that carried the 160 gas or if they have the fuel pump.  Seems like they would contained the fuel pump on the rough terrain fork lifts. 



Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 5:28pm
There was a discussion about these engine kits last fall when agco listed the 226 gas engine kit as being on indefinant backorder. The short version of that discussion was that you want to order a power max kit for you motor. Power max makes the oem style power crater pistions.   If you use a kit with a flat top pistion you will end up with a major loss of compression.   I think indefinant backorder might have been the name of that thread in the farm equipment forum. The power max kits are not cheap but they do carry the correct pistons so you will get the 8.25 i think it is compression ratio. Nothing worse then putting all the work into a rebuild and having it come out with less power.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 5:33pm
Oh you might try posting on the farm equipment forum asking if someone has the engine parts you are looking for. Someone posted recently that they wanted to know if they could swap a 149 into a tractor that had a 160 because the 160 had a cracked block maybe between the two motors you could build one good one.


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 9:55pm
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=78886&title=160-vs-149-engine

So, different blocks 149 vs 160..

cb1


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 18 May 2016 at 10:37pm
Block back from cleaners.


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 18 May 2016 at 10:37pm
Next picture


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 18 May 2016 at 10:38pm
Last picture.


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 18 May 2016 at 10:40pm
Here is a picture of damage from past owner using a bolt a little too long.  Will need to fix this..


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 18 May 2016 at 10:40pm
For mounting the water pump..


Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 19 May 2016 at 7:01am
I have a few 160 bare blocks, some liners, cranks, rods, pistons. I have saved them from mostly farm tractor, and industrial I60-I600.


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Posted By: Brad in WA
Date Posted: 24 May 2016 at 11:59pm
149 has orings on the sleeves, 160 has them in the block, sleeves will not interchange.


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 25 May 2016 at 12:03am
Originally posted by Brad in WA Brad in WA wrote:

149 has orings on the sleeves, 160 has them in the block, sleeves will not interchange.

Thats why the sleeve/piston set is $700 more than the 138, 149 motor.

Special,

Old



Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 25 May 2016 at 12:16pm
I would dress the threaded area up, smooth off the broken edges and check for cracking into the bolt boss but would not attempt to weld or fill that spot, if need be I would drill and add a KEENSERT to the bolting threads for strength.


Posted By: OldSchoolRecovery
Date Posted: 26 May 2016 at 12:40am
Crank came back bad. Cracked.

Rethinking project until fall,

Old


Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 26 May 2016 at 9:57am
Actually the 138 149 and 160 all have oring grooves in the block, but the 160 block has a larger counterbore, so they won't interchange, 160 also has larger wrist pins and are full floating.
125 engines have oring grooves on the sleeve.



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