Removal of D15 Loader....
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Topic: Removal of D15 Loader....
Posted By: Dantforth
Subject: Removal of D15 Loader....
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 6:22am
| I thought I'd ask before starting. I have to remove the loader. I am alone and don't have a tree branch available. This loader does not have the swing down arms to hold it while the tractor is backed out. I am wondering about using a 2X6 on each side notched to hold the arms. Thanks, Dave |
Replies:
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 7:35am
|
I have used the rafters in the shop for that purpose. I would expect well supported 2X6s would also work to hold it up; however, you may have difficulty later when trying to re-install the loader (need a means to lift/lower to install the rear pivot pins) ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: Dantforth
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 8:00am
| Thanks Greg. I do not have a garage to take it into to remove the loader. How in the devil did farmers take them on / off when they had to do it often? I will try the 2X6's to see how it goes. It has to come off as I am having a knock in the engine checked and possibly the engine will have to be rebuilt. Such is my life. It has been nothing but work and pain so far. I wish I could turn back the hands of time. I'll take photos if my attempts are successful and post them here. Dave |
Posted By: Creek Jenkins
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 8:08am
|
Lemme know how it goes, I gotta do the same thing for my D17 so I kan split it and replace the rear seal. I was just going to prop it up outside the shop as well - I need the room inside so I can roll the front end away.
cheers,
Creek
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 8:09am
|
A steel fence post will work fine. Drill a hole so you can put a bolt through the tee post and the bracket on the loader arms. The loader arms are easily lifted when removed so you can adjust height by moving the post closer or farther away from the loader. I have homemade legs for my loader and it only takes about 5 minutes to take the loader of and put it back on. The subframe stays on and the cylinders stay with the loader. Check the front pulley on the engine to make sure it hasn't come loose. Someone on here once said a loose front pulley can make a noise like a bottom end knock. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Dantforth
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 8:33am
| I will have the front pulley checked but....I can hear the knock especially when I have the tractor under load or going up a steep incline. I suspect a main bearing but pray I am wrong. I have sickened myself of the tractor with all of the work I have been through. I redid the back end completely, cleaned, painted, replaced all bolts and nuts, seals, rebuitl rear ram, brakes.....I guess I am just not suited to this "fun"! Tractor works great and is all complete with three point, draw bar, brush guard so if I can get the knock out it is going....Dave |
Posted By: BrianC,Ont
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 9:27am
| Wish I could get some time to get down to check out the noise for you. So many things on the go. I am going to look at a tractor in Jasper this week, maybe I could stop by then. Send me a PM with your addy and phone #. Are the half load rules off of the roads down there. I am hauling around 60,000 lbs on a tridem reefer trailer. |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 9:44am
|
Don't feel sickened, Dave- you've done the hardest part of the work! These engines are rediculously easy to work on... far easier than the rear end. As for removing the loader... the steel-post suggestion works well as long as you have a narrow front... if it's wide, you'll need support over-the-top. Take a pair of wood landscaping posts, set them on each side of the tractor (just outside the front-wheel track) and lag-bolt a 2x6 across, about a foot above the loader-arms. Ratchet-strap the arms enough to take weight off the tractor. As long as the bucket doesn't slide around, the arms will dangle nicely from the 'tree' you've made. To make sure it really doesn't move, get a big, heavy bucketful of wet dirt or gravel- that'll anchor the front end to the ground. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 11:48am
|
Good point Dave. Since my loader is on a narrow front tractor I never thought of getting the front wheels outa there. Your post and cross beam idea sounds perfect if you don't have a tree or an A frame handy.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: KurtDE
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 12:56pm
| You will also have to split the subframe if you are going to split the tractor to remove the motor. |
Posted By: Dantforth
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 3:03pm
| Well, the loader subframe has been off and is all redone with new bolts etc. so it won't be a problem. I will get at it tomorrow morning come rain or shine or black flies. Thanks guy for the advise and for the encouragement. Dave |
Posted By: BrianC,Ont
Date Posted: 04 May 2010 at 5:51pm
|
Dave; Did you get my PM, I am going to look at that Belarus in Jasper tomorow. Do you want me to stop by and have a listen to the motor.
Brian |
Posted By: Dantforth
Date Posted: 06 May 2010 at 1:03pm
Well, it is off! I just took my chainsaw, sledge hammer and 2X4's and did it. Not pretty but effective. Ireally only needed the two outside ones which I spalyed out so I could get the wide front out of there. The other two short 2X4's are just for insurance. Tks. for the help.
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Posted By: Ron(WA)
Date Posted: 06 May 2010 at 4:09pm
| Great job! Now I know how to do it. |