220 hydraulic pump
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11722
Printed Date: 27 Jan 2025 at 10:59am
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Topic: 220 hydraulic pump
Posted By: redline
Subject: 220 hydraulic pump
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2010 at 11:50pm
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My 220 seems to be gaining oil in the crankcase. The only logical reason would be some bad seals/orings in the pump. Are the repair parts still available, and do I need to be a rocket scientist to reseal it? Will it need to be disassembled entirely to replace the seal, or can I just replace the seal? I am pretty sure the pump is working properly, so I am hoping to get by with the minimum disassembly. Thanks for any advice. ------------- If it weren't for the last minute, I wouldn't get anything done! |
Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2010 at 6:32am
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are you sure it isn't fuel dilution? common thing to leak fuel past the pilot tube seals in injection pump due to broken flex ring/blocked return, or just a very worn pilot tube. HTH, Ed.
------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2010 at 10:20am
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I had the same thing happen with my 7000's hydraulic pump on the engine. It was just the front shaft seal. Really pretty simple to replace, you just have to take the pump off, then use a seal pick/small screw drive/small punch and wood screw/whatever your preference set up is for pulling seals, pop the old seal out, and put the new one in. Make sure you get the seal number off of it before you pull it out. I got a new seal at carquest for something pretty reasonable. Tractor was down for less than a day. While you have the pump off, it could be a good time to make sure none of the relief valve caps are leaking, and if they are, undo them and put in new o rings. You can usually tell if it's diesel or oil by pulling the dipstick and dabbing it on a papertowel, as the dye in the diesel will show up on the papertowel. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: redline
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2010 at 10:58am
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There is a real good chance it is fuel. I haven't used it much, mostly just putt-putting around the yard so far. It would take a pretty serious leak at a seal to add this much fluid. The fuel level in the tank is higher than the injection pump, so that could be feeding it constantly. Unless the hydraulic level is obscenely high, I don't think it would be able to flow by gravity. I will try the dipstick on the paper towel trick next time I am out in the shed. The seal on the hyd. pump will be much cheaper, but judging by every other part of this tractor to date, it will be both units leaking, and the previous owner probably welded a seal in rather than fixing it properly. I wish someone would have told him that replacement parts really were available. I don't think he knew that. How does a person beat a machine that badly? (I had done some work on it by the time this photo was taken.)
Thanks for the responses and ideas!
 ------------- If it weren't for the last minute, I wouldn't get anything done! |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2010 at 11:55am
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Another easy way to tell is to send an oil sample out. Costs about $20 at most. Some labs even offer a free first sample (I think blackstone does this). This will tell you for sure whether or not you have diesel fuel in the oil. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |