WD45 Engine Rebuild
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115588
Printed Date: 07 Feb 2025 at 10:04pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD45 Engine Rebuild
Posted By: Allis dave
Subject: WD45 Engine Rebuild
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 4:18pm
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About 5 years ago when I painted my WD45 I pulled the engine, installed a new clutch, had the flywheel surfaced, and put a full gasket kit in the motor because the cork was rotted on the head gasket and was leaking. It had M&W’s in it and the pistons, sleeves, and bearings all looked good. I’ve only put 100-200 hours since then. After working it hard for a few hours the spring, the head gasket was leaking oil so I pulled head off to have it checked and milled and saw the front sleeve was scored. Pulled the pan and the bearings were lightly scored and there was some soft gasket sealer that flaked off in the pan and some orange paint chips. So I’m going to rebuild the whole thing and want to make sure I do it right. I’m not a mechanic so I’d be happy for any knowledgeable advice. I want to have the head hot tanked and machined to true up all mating surfaces. Install new hardened valve seats. I want to get new cam bushings and grind the crank. I’m also thinking about getting the block line bored and the rods bored to remove any shims. Is this actually worth the money? Should I get the engine internally balanced or is that a waste of money at these low rpms? I’m trying to decide what engine kit would give me the most power and reliability. I’ve got what looks like another good set of M&W piston I could use. Would I get more power out of the M&W’s with the 4.125 bore at 7.3:1 compression or a 4” 175 kit at 8.25:1? My guess is that they would be almost the same. I was reading some of the posts of converting to a full flow oiling system. Is this very difficult for a novice and what’s an approximate cost? Will the stock filter handle that much oil flow? Is it easy to get a D17IV oil pump? Please let me know if I should be doing anything else, and thank you in advance. |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 5:11pm
| I'll try and take questions in order. #1. You must coat the head gasket with some sort of sealer or it probably will seep oil or antifreeze(or both) somewhere. Absolutely dry isn't a good idea on a 60 year old engine block. It should be re-torqued after running a while and when cold to insure proper tension. #2.Unless the exhaust valve seats are shot, they already are a hard replaceable seat. Let a reputable machine shop tell you what the head actually needs. #3. WD-45 conn rods do not have shims in them. The block main caps do. New shims cost less than an align-bore. Suit yourself. #4. More balancing than factory isn't a bad thing, but may not really be needed. That choice is up to you. #5. Motor kit thing is also your choice and end result is about the same HP gain over stock. #6.Changing to full-flow oiling is not too difficult for someone who is experienced and requires a newer D-17 oil pump and filter base assembly/lines to complete, along with drilling out passages in the block and plugging one of them. Not a job for a novice, as drilling the engine block is a serious endeavor that no mistakes can be made or the block is junk. |
Posted By: Bill Deppe/AC Salvag
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 11:01pm
| One summer I disassembled 8-9 '45 engines, after having the cranks checked, discovered those with M&W pistons most likely showed cracking when magna fluxed. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 7:01am
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After getting a $400 price to line bore last night I decided it wasn't worth it. I did use that spray copper sealer on the head gasket, torqued the head, then re-torqued warm. I didn't have the head checked though so that could be an issue. Do you guys just "feel" torqueing the studs hidden under the thermostat or is there a more accurate way? Bill, are you saying that on the M&W engines, the cranks showed cracks? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 10:46am
| Whenever you have a crankshaft re-ground, your Machinist better be magnafluxing it checking for cracks to be sure it's worthy of re-grinding. |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 5:12pm
This is one of the wrenches that I use.    ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Allis dave wrote:Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 1:16pm
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Line boring is something to do on an "as needed" basis. I had to line bore my CA engine because the center main was far enough out of position that even though I had .002 clearance on all 3 mains, the crank could not be turned with the caps torqued. Balancing can't hurt, and could make a smoother running engine, but the gains may not be worth the extra expense. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 2:23pm
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Don, Did you make that wrench? |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 2:37pm
No, I didn't make this one, it was built by Snap-on. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 8:02pm
I believe those wrenches were for distributors. |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 10:48pm
Sorry but they are built just for this and they are not distributor wrenches. I have four or five dif one's to get in or around stuff on heads to tighten bolts/nuts.  ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2015 at 4:50am
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Don, what do you call those wrenches? I have never seen anything like them!
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2015 at 2:32pm
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Is that a special made tool for that job Don? Seems like A-C used Kent-Moore aka Spent More for their special tools, but Snap On and the rest are good at coming up with solutions too. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2015 at 6:44pm
Brian I don't remember what Snap-on said it's for but I have had them for years, this one is a Snap-on number S9513C and I have not looked to see if they are still for-sale now. I have one from John Deere and two from OTC and two that I made. They are worth hours of time off jobs over the years for me. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2015 at 8:01pm
| That's great Don, Thanks! I just bought one off e-bay. $20 including shipping. Worth it to make sure everything is torques correctly. |
Posted By: Gary in Texas
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2015 at 4:22am
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It looks like a cylinder base wrench use for aircraft engines. Like Continentals and Lycoming. |