CARB FIXED - First start of Allis C
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Topic: CARB FIXED - First start of Allis C
Posted By: easygoin4
Subject: CARB FIXED - First start of Allis C
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 3:25pm
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Couple questions: (FYI- I have never had this thing running, bought in pieces, she is back together, looks great, going to fire it up soon) Can I hand crank the engine w/o plugs, with oil in it and prime it- wait for oil to come our little oil line to Mag. The engine was put back together with assembly lube and alot of oil, now pan is full and new filter is on. Next Question- I rewired completely, it was a hand crank, and now will be both 6 Volts. All went together great and I have manual. I purchased used box with 3 position light switch, new Amp meter and Mag shut off. If I pull the light switch all the way out should the lights come on NOT RUNNING. I tried pushing the starter button too and nothing. Brand new battery but will check voltage. Any advice would be great.. Keeping my fingers crossed... thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 5:11pm
| I don't think hand cranking is going to move much oil around. I would just fire her up. You could use the starter the move some oil if you wanted. Just disconnect the coil wire. Although, this could cause problems also. As far as nothing happening with the new battery, make certain you have a tight, metal to metal connection to the leads. The amperage is very high in a 6 volt system and it won't work without very good connections. Been there, done that. Good luck and let's see some photos! |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 5:18pm
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With everything being apart and you not having started it this is always a interesting point. First suggestion is go slow and don't question everything. Dont start taking things apart.I know I have been here before too. You have built and assembled it to a condition that is probably better than when it was new. You may have one little thing, like no ground that is causing your starting issue. Go over the electrical with a continuity tester and or multi-meter to make sure you have power. I don't have one of those pull switches, so cant answer if the light should come on? And I always have electrical issue, Just me and my lack of knowledge. I am sure you can hand crank the engine but not sure it will prime the oil pump? Someone like Dick L will be along to answer that. If you have plenty of lube as assembled then I would just start it up and check oil pressure gauge. I think once you find the issue it will be pretty simple. We could use a couple pictures too:)! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 5:27pm
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Some guy coined a phrase on the VW forum years back: "Hit it with an axe!" It might help 
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Posted By: Leon n/c AR.
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 7:04pm
| The light switch is normally a three position switch. In should be low charge, mid position is for lights and all the way out for high charge. Best I remember the lights could be turned on without tractor running. Leon |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 7:39pm
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i agree that was my thought to start from beginning and check wiring with meter. I have added a few pics- first one is when I got it in the summer. Its not a show condition restore but good enough for this city guy who likes these old toys. Thanks will keep you posted as to what I find.    |
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 7:54pm
| I beg to differ. That is a beautiful tractor! Very nice attention to detail. Nice work! |
Posted By: Chuck(ONT)
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 8:19pm
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Looking good, like the seat and fenders. ------------- Never take life too seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway! 1C 1 WD45 1 AC180 |
Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 8:34pm
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nice! ------------- It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa, |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 8:43pm
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Looks real good. To prime the oil pump and get oil thru the system I like to put a hose on the filter stand pipe with it long enough to hold over the rocker arms. I fill the hose with motor oil and let it seep down once or twice. With the hose full and without spark plugs I run the starter until oil is running out of the hose over the rocker arms. I then replace the filter, the spark plugs and start the engine. I check for spark at TDC by hand cranking before priming the oil pump. I do this by making sure the CENTER or TDC line is in the inspection hole the instant I get spark on number one plug wire on the compression stroke. That is when both rocker arms are up on number one cylinder. As you might guess from the above I do not put the valve cover on until I have it started. I then only set it on until it has warmed up and I have retorqued the head bolts as well as reset the rocker clearance. |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 8:53pm
Hmmm... IIRC the lights should be connected so they operate in an off(in) on (first position) and off (second position). Sounds like wire swapped. Pushing starter button and nothing... well, that's the simplest circuit on the planet... you've got one side of the battery grounded, the other side to starter switch. When switch closes, you have a current path going from battery, to starter switch, through starter switch, through starter windings, to ground, and back to battery. Something on that path is incomplete. I would look at all your connections, particularly the ground wire connection to the tractor, and the nose of the starter, as these are very necessary contact surfaces... if there's paint on them, you won't be carrying current on the ground side of the circuit. Since this is a C, I would also check the starter switch contacts. very frequently, the starter switch contacts on Bs and Cs, become intermittant or fail, yielding a no-response-to-starter-switch condition. one can eliminate this as a problem by disconnecting the battery, removing the starter switch, and applying a jumper cable to the battery post, and the other end to the contact surface on the starter. MAKE SURE that the tractor is chocked and out-of-gear, so that if the starter turns the engine over, the tractor doesn't drive over you..  ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
easygoin4 wrote:Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 8:58pm
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Sugarmaker, That is one BEAUTIFUL JOB!! I can assure you they never looked that good new. Listen closely to what is said above. You are getting advice from some GREAT mechanics. You will find the suggestions and advice to be very correct and exceptional. The C has the B-C-CA engine which is about a simple as you can get. In fact, I even worked on them and had success. Thanks for bringing the C back. To me it is one of the nicest looking A-C tractors. Happy Thanksgiving! Good Luck! Bill Long |
Posted By: MrHDC
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 9:03pm
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"It's not a show tractor" What a crock!! LOL! Looks like a show tractor to me. Good job. Hervey |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 9:06pm
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You are doing a great job on the tractor. Looks good!! On your 3 way switch. Knob in, charge 3 amps, knob in first position, lights on high charge, all the way out, just high charge. Check for voltage at the starter switch on the starter to chassis gound. If present then remove the switch and clean the contacts. They can get corroded from sitting as can the points in the mag. The C is a great little tractor and fun to drive. I love mine.LOL Bob ------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S, |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 1:22am
| I agree...that is a sweet little tractor again! nice job! |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 6:33am
| As nice a job you done on that C I'm very confident you will soon have it running !! When it comes to life you will have a ear to ear smile as we all do at that point. You have a very nice tractor. Mark |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 7:06am
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On the light switch, the guys pointed out the correct information on how it works. Also, I would like to add, that make sure where the switch is bolted inside the instrument box that it is clean and free of paint under that switch. This switch is a multi-function self grounding switch, and it needs to have a good ground in order to work correctly for the charging side of the system. New paint makes a great insulator. As for priming it with the hand crank, I doubt very much if that will work unless you have an arm like Superman. I always pour oil down the oil pump pipe and fire it up. Your no start condition sounds like a connection that isn't clean or is insulated from the new paint job. Its probably something simple. You'll find the problem... Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 7:26am
| I had no idea the Model C was so small. Bloody hell, I might as well add another to the list. |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 2:18pm
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Thanks for all the advice and compliments... I had similar problem with lights on the Massey I recently did, too much paint.LOL So this time I took a wire directly to the ground bolt (which may still need paint removed) and wired the light switch, front and rear lights dierectly to this to be sure I had a good ground. Yes ran 2 wires to each fixture... I am sure its a contact thing for starter, but will open box back up and test every circuit- Love a challenge.. Thanks agian to all of you.. Will let you know what I find.. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 3:43pm
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you know where the starter sticks into the bell housing, the wall must be clean and no paint........ the 5/8 inch set screw pinches things together to get a good ground for the starter. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Chuck(ONT)
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 5:40pm
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Check the fuse in the box. ------------- Never take life too seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway! 1C 1 WD45 1 AC180 |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 7:18pm
Bill, Its not mine, but this is a very nice tractor!!!!! Looks like it belongs to "easygoin4" I think it would rank right up there with a high quality restoration! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 7:25pm
Gary, You do need one of each!:) Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 7:30pm
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Easygoin4, Don't pull one like I did. Was painting the starter switch contact assembly. Well I placed a piece on masking tape on the inside so as not to get paint on the contacts. Yep you guessed it. I forgot to take the tape out when I put it back on the starter! Masking tape makes a great insulator! Pulled the contact switch back off, took the tape out and the tractor fired right up!  Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:38pm
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When I install a 3 position switch I run a wire from the 10-24 stove bolt to the battery ground bolt on the post. That way I'm sure to have the switch grounded. Yes, be sure to clean the rust and paint from all ground connections. Paint and rust are great insulators. LOL Bob ------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S, |
Posted By: Rog(NCWI)
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:42pm
| On my Model B, if I pull the light switch all the out the lights stay on just as they do on the first notch. Is this right? The amp gage shows about 3 amps when all the way in and about 12 amps all the way out. Not sure on the middle setting. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 7:35am
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The Headlight/Tailight circuits get connected to the "S" terminal on the 3 pos. switch. Headlights will come on in middle position. Third position, lights out, high charge only. Your charging rate is fine... ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2015 at 4:47pm
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Update. Fuse blown, lites work fine, however the mag. Switch is not right grounds out whether in or out. So disconnected it at mag for now and has spark. I put plugs in and she fires up or only few seconds. I feel is is a gas issue, but fuel dripping out tiny plug in bottom of zenith carb. Also the throttle rod at carb does not seem right, the stop set screw is not in closed position its like it stays open quite a bit. I do have the correct spring on rod to manifold bolt. Next question..do all 6 volt systems crank slow. I have brand new battery and starter just cranks slow. I have hand cranked till arm sore it will fire but dies right away. I do have good ground now. Thinking about throwing 12 volt charger to starter to get it going. Any thoughts... thanks It was nice to hear run and sounded great, no smoke either. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2015 at 5:16pm
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The 6 volt systems worked for years fine ( with regular maint.) till people started replacing cables with "off the shelf" stuff NOT made for 6 volts. Cables NEED to be BIG, connections CLEAN , that means NO paint between starter and block and no paint between ground connection and block.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2015 at 9:17pm
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I think you have a few minor problems. The carb must have one of the internal passageways plugged or the float is messed up OR the gasket between the carb and manifold is leaking air. For the electric side, there has got to be a bad ground or bad positive side connection. You are very close, it will run soon, believe me! ------------- "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" Allis Express participant |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2015 at 9:39pm
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The battery cables are a no. 2 wire. Ground I know is good sanded all well for good conntact The cables are not std. 12 volt cables. I noticed gasket is wet at carb. So assume too much fuel. Will try again tomorrow.. thanks |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2015 at 11:26pm
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A 12 volt charger will NOT spin a 6 volt starter. Got volts but no startin amps. Use a 12 volt Battery. It will actually spin the engine too fast for the mag to snap and fire. Just bump it over with 12 volts like your handcranking the engine. Your wasting your time spinnin the engine fast. I think your having carb issues. Reset your float level. Sounds like your drowning it in gas. I'm telling you this stuff because I just went thru all this BS myself. |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 5:06pm
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Good new Sort of: First- got tired of trying to crank it with 6 Volt, just not enough, will figure out later, So I grabbed my Jet ski battery and disconnected all electrical and direct to starter and starter housing, cranks great now enough to fire it up. Problem is Fuel, I have taken carb off 6 times to adjust floats, keeps pouring our the bottom hole. I even left off bowl on bench ran water in funnel and clear line and lifted the floats up maybe 1/4" and it shut off the flow- thought I had it.. NOPE. Is there any tricks to float adjustments. Also the floats are good no holes in them, checked that too. But she will run, I only have a little fuel tank on it until I get carb right, great oil pressure and no smoke. The carb is a Zenith.. Any Suggestions.. thanks |
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 5:11pm
| Did you rebuild the carburetor? In my experience, if the carb is dirty the stop valve pin will stick and not shut off the flow of fuel. You may need to buy new seat and pin for the carb. However, when I clean my carbs, I use brake cleaner to force volume through the ports and passages. Once everything is really cleaned, try it again. Also, I've never had luck with viton type shut off pin. I prefer the metal ones. |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 5:23pm
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I will try to load the video of it running and son pointing to carb leak. http://vid382.photobucket.com/albums/oo264/easygoin4/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20151129_170103516.mp4" rel="nofollow - http://vid382.photobucket.com/albums/oo264/easygoin4/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20151129_170103516.mp4
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 6:07pm
What ground is sanded? The starter HAS to be in direct contact with the block or you have no good ground. NO paint on the outside diameter of the starter and NO paint in the bell housing hole. Rust in those 2 places will also insulate it from grounding. Also , any connection of the ground cable needs to be direct to solid contact of the torque tube. IE if you are connected to the steering post support, is the post in good paint free contact with the torque tube? As to the carb leaking out the bottom, I believe your needle is not seating good and no amount of float adjustment will fix that. With the top half of the carb turned upside down, the float should set level (parallel) with the gasket area. In that position, you should not be able to blow thru the gas inlet with your lung pressure. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Acmichael
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 9:03pm
| Looks good. I'm glad someone else is asking all of these questions. I'm getting real close to firing mine up and after reading these post its gonna help me to make sure everything is like it's supposed to be. Thanks |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 5:46am
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I have taken the carb apart soaked in carb. cleaner and blew out every opening with compressed air and carb. spray. the carb was actuall very clean from what I have seen in the past, there were no marks on the needle that appeared to be worn. I did find a manual on line for Zenith Carbs and now see how to meausre the float. I will also try to blow thru line as mentioned. The Starter housing and starter have been sanded and cleaned- that is why I was finding it difficult to understand this ground issue. The ground terminal off battery is going to steering post and did sand it but will do again. I have checked all me grounds with an OHM Meter and they were reading good contact. It sure made my day when I heard her run for longer than 5 seconds and ran so smooth, guess my timing was right on - thakns to all the guys for timing advise.. I will work on it the next few days after work to get things dialed in and try that float adjustment again. Thank You all Very, Very Much... |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 6:47am
I don't know where the C's FACTORY ground-connection point was originally, but I'd connect it to the point closest to the starter... if there was a connection tab on the STARTER, I'd put it there, and now that I'm thinking of it, I'll probably weld a grounding tab to Schwartz's starter, and then take a second ground wire to the block for ignition...  There's another possible source of carbeurator issue- if there was water in the carbeurator passages at some point in time, and it happened to freeze, it COULD have cracked the casting internally somewhere, and not be easily seen. Gasoline will seep through a crack that water's surface tension may not. Another possibility, is that if the carb inlet is restricted (say by an air cleaner that was being restrictive) it will draw substantially more fuel, even with the choke open. May or may not be the case for you, but just for future reference, if moisture displaces the oil in the oil bath air cleaner, then freezes... it makes for a very frustrating start-up experience (don't ask how I learned this! )------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 7:17pm
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Great idea on the additional ground terminal. Float issue Still: I set float perfectly and put on again it still pours out the bottom hole. This is getting very frustrating- I have had this carb off 8 times. Now I left carb attached and removed bowl to see how much gas in it- see pictures, fuel was down bout 5/8" as shown- how could it be overflowing. MY thoughts are now maybe something else is causing the overflow- but I do not know the workings of a carb to clearly. There are no cracks in bowl that i can see, so how does the fuel get to the other chamber to leak out. Any ideas... Thanks not much hair left to pull out...    |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 8:42am
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Two things to do to that Carburetor. First, buy yourself a bore brush that you can install in the end of your hand drill and run in and out of the inlet port. The inlet ports on these Carburetors get so full of rust and debris from the threads to the back of the bore inlet hole it isn't funny. If there is a lot of debris in there, its just gonna keep sticking to the Viton needle causing a flooding issue. Second, make sure the needle valve is running smooth up n' down in the seat's bore and not hanging up. Take the needle out, and with some super fine steel wool burnish the needle to remove any rough edges on the needle that could hang the needle up. I do these two things on every rebuild I do for our customer's. I tank, soap wash, and then glassbead our customer's Carburetor's, and still after all of that, run the bore brush in and out of that inlet cavity and still the rust and debris comes outta' there! Its a trap for dirt, rust and debris in there...HTH Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: Chuck(ONT)
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 10:32am
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Did you check the float for leaks? ------------- Never take life too seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway! 1C 1 WD45 1 AC180 |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 11:02am
| First you have to quit trying to blame the float. Listen to Steve and make yourself understand how the needle valve must seat without fine particals of rust can hold it open enough to leak by the seat. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 11:17am
Listen to Steve and Dick and like I said, u7se lung pressure to check the seat of the needle with the carb top UPSIDE DOWN!
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 3:36pm
| Dick Steve and CT are all correct, it's hard to believe how much gas will pass thru the needle/seat with just a tiny piece of dirt on the needle seat. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 4:02pm
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Here's another problem that I see that can be causing chronic hair pulling . I see you have a rubber fuel line running to the Carburetor. Depending on how old that rubber hose is, they deteriorate from the inside out, and little minute pieces of rubber will get down into the seat and hang it up also. I suggest installing a new metal fuel line or install a new piece of rubber hose. Personally, the metal line is the way to fly! Your problem is not a float issue.... Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 5:10am
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So this guy feels like an Idiot.. I have had carb apart many times its clean as a whistle, adjusted the floats about 9 times. Keep going back in my head about someone talking about a vent. I looked at what I thought was the vent and seemed to have a plug in it. Well not so - after thinking about air flow and all the gas that is pouring out - maybe it should be open, so thru a magnifier (cause I am older and cant see) it had hardened crud in it. Cleand it out all the way open now. Starts right up- RUNS GREAT, No gas pouring out anywhere, just blows me away how many time I looked at that vent hole. I will attached a picture for others to see the vent that was plugged. Now going to work on 6 Volt system and get it up to par. I want to Thank ALL OF YOU for the kind words and help on this. Thanks Again... Chris |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 5:16am
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Picture showing vent that wad plugged. Thanks Again.. Trying this from a phone so hope it shows up. 
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 6:59am
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Damn bugs!!! Glad to hear you found your problem! ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: SteveC (NS)
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 7:30am
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Can anyone put an arrow pointing to the "vent" in Chris's photo for me? Steve |
Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 7:37am
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I was just thinking the same thing Steve...where is the vent? ------------- It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa, |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 5:18pm
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Sorry picture so big.. Scroll to the right I have a pick that I am pointing to vent with. |
Posted By: easygoin4
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 5:19pm
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sorry picture so big, not the greatest with these computers. Scroll over to the right and I am pointing to the vent with a metal pic. |
Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 9:42pm
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thank you! ------------- It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa, |
Posted By: ErikR
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 12:19am
A little smaller...... ------------- 1950 B |
Posted By: SteveC (NS)
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2015 at 6:38am
| Thanks Erik! And Chris ( I was so intimidated by the BIG pic I didn't think of scrolling over. LOL) |