D14 radiator
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11378
Printed Date: 24 Jan 2025 at 11:45am
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Topic: D14 radiator
Posted By: bigfish_Oh
Subject: D14 radiator
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2010 at 1:41am
The radiator is not holding water. Is it possible to just "rotted" sitting in the garage? I believe it is original and was fine when parked 2 years ago. In the service manual it says if radiator loses water rapidily, check the baffle in upper tank for being loose or out of place. What are they talking about?
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1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe
1951 WD, factory p.s.
1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale
2014 HD Tri Glide
2009 GMC CC SLT Dually
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Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2010 at 6:25am
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I would think the baffle redirects the water from the top to distibute it evenly to all the vertical tubes for better water flow.If loose,the water would tend to go down the middle tubes making them hotter.
Most leaky rads I've dealt with,it's the buildup of stuff on the bottom collector that traps rain water that rots out the tube-collector joints. Should be a easy repair as you've gotta be able to see where it's leaking,once the rad is cleaned up.might be worth a trip to local rad shop to clean her out,fix her up proper,good for the next 50 years !!
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2010 at 7:05am
I took mine in a few years back to have it checked, since it was off, and they told me it needed recored. A reliable shop, and they did a good job. Mine is a 58 D14. One thing to make sure they make note of is the route of the overflow tube, It has a quick bend right where it leaves the filler neck.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Posted By: bigfish_Oh
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2010 at 9:43am
It will just be a job, it's the back hoe with shuttle I posted. The loader may not need to come off, but will have to be blocked to pull bolts. Tractors with extras and options are as much fun to work on as the first cars with air and smog !! We have had good luck with a local shop on radiators.
I'm sure I will have more D14 questions, I'm still trying to figure out if the hoe is too intergral to remove and run loader only. I'll probably want at least a drawbar eventually.
thanks,Larry
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1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe
1951 WD, factory p.s.
1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale
2014 HD Tri Glide
2009 GMC CC SLT Dually
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2010 at 2:24pm
The worst part is getting to the nuts on the shroud that hold the radiator down the sides. Then there are a couple big bolts at the bottom. Disconnect the center hood bracket from the tank end and remove it and the shroud as one. Check the water pump while you are there. That was the reason I ended up doing my rad. Also may want to throw on a new belt, because that's about what you have to do to change the belt!!! I ended up taking my hoses to a real auto parts store, set them on the counter, and the guy found one hose that I could cut the three pieces out of for new hoses. Have Fun!!!
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2010 at 9:58pm
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We have a good used 14 radiator. Was holding while the tractor ran. Would have to look and see how clean the tubes are, but I did not leak. I can have it pressure tested if you want to go that route. Typically haveing them re-cored gets close to a new radiator.
JImD
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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.
We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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