WD 45 plowing question
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11128
Printed Date: 24 Jan 2025 at 12:00am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD 45 plowing question
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Subject: WD 45 plowing question
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 12:23pm
| I have a wd 45 with a number 53 plow. I seem to have the depth set about right and it is sitting in the ground level. However, as I am plowing my field, every third row leaves a trench. I double checked the width of the tractor and it seems OK acording to my plow manual. Can I adjust where the plow pulls behind the tractor? What would cause this? |
Replies:
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 1:00pm
|
You might re-ck your tread a #53-14" will set a 56" and a #53-16" will set at 61"
Them look at the settings on your coulters, set them about 5/8" to maybe 3/4" to the left of the bottom, Are all thee bottoms running the same depth? Put the tractor in the furrow and drop the plow in the ground for 10' or so stop and look at all three furrows look at what is different between them and post back or take a pic or two of them then maybe we can help more.
Don ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 1:01pm
| Front of plow needs to go deeper. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 1:08pm
| Easy way to see how the plow is set is to find a nice level place then run the left side of the tractor tires up on blocks the depth you want to plow. Then drop the plow and adjust the plow so the bottoms/frame is level all directions. When you drop the plow in the field you will only have to make small adjustments if any. |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 2:20pm
|
Dick, I am setting up some eight inch blocks now. I will see what that looks like.
Don, I will recheck the tread. I will go out and make a couple adjustments and take a picture tonight or tomorow evening. Thanks, Jesse.
|
Posted By: ToddSin NY
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 3:16pm
|
2 things I can think of 1)you need to bring the right tire in closer to the tractor so the plow moves over towards the dead furrow.
2) When setting up on an 8" block the tire wraps around the block and you are only 4-5 inches higher than the other side. You might want to put a jack on the left side of the tractor and measure the hub until it is 8" higher.
|
Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 3:59pm
| Glock - It sounds like your plow is not running straight behind the tractor. I assume your front bottom is taking too wide a cut. You need to adjuct the hitch. There are two adj screws at the base of the tower where the depth crank is located. You need to adj the one on the left, one turn CCW and the one on the right, one turn CW. This will move the hitch approx 1.2inches to the right. I believe you might need to move your hitch about 3 inches. Adjust hitch till the plow pulls straight behind the tractor. - AL |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 4:09pm
|
Glockhead, when you take your measurements, check to see that the notch in the PTO guard is centered between the tires.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 4:40pm
|
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 4:52pm
OK, I did have the width too wide. I narrowed it up and it took care of the trench it was leaving. However it still seems like it isn't plowing very deep. Here are the pictures.
|
Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 5:19pm
|
Is the plow scoured? It also looks like you need to run the LH link a little longer. This will give the plow a little more suck and also run it a little deeper.. - AL |
Posted By: Rfdeere
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 5:52pm
|
I can't tell by the pic, do you have the front wheels up 8" too (on the blocks)? And I agree that the left lift linkage needs to be longer or the right linkage should be shorter. (or combination of the two) ------------- Randy Freshour,Member Indiana AC Partners, http://www.rumelyallis.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.rumelyallis.com |
Posted By: N.C. Stanley
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 8:02pm
|
You need to level the plow side to side as was said. You have the plow winged down (tilted to right when facing direction of travel), when it should be level or winged up slightly. Winging the plow up will help it enter the ground faster at the headland and maintain depth better. Don't go overboard on the depth of plowing. Your soil looks very good, with only corn stubble. If you were plowing alfalfa, you might want to get a little deeper to cut the roots. I have heard you should plow at 1/2 the bottom width, so 7" deep for a 14" bottom. This seems to work well, but as long as you are still turning a good furrow, I have run shallower. ------------- '57 WD45, '47 B, Massey-Harris 60 SP Combine |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 9:42pm
|
I figured it out. The left hand link is stripped out and it alows it to move around a lot. I made two passes today and tried to lower the left side and could't figure out whay I was adjusting it and then it seemed like it was way off from where I had it set. There are very few threads left. Looks like I need some parts to make it longer. Thanks.
Why is the furrow wall crumbling so bad?
|
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 9:45pm
| Oh yeah, the plow bottoms are painted. I never have had them scoure here at home. The ground is so sticky that the dirt just sticks. I need to find a field and get them nice and shiney. |
Posted By: daveingreenbay
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 9:52pm
| An old gravel pit works excellent to help scour rusty, or painted mouldboards. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2010 at 9:57pm
|
Crumbles because the landslide is pushing too hard against the furrow wall. Means your rear bottom is too shallow or front is too deep. It's not drafting quite right behind the tractor. To shine up the bottoms faster I took a disc grinder and a very coarse flexible sanding disc to the bottoms. The first disc I used to get the majority of the rust off all the bottoms then I went over each one again each with a fresh disc. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 6:53am
| Well, today I plan on trying some of the suggestions you all posted. I will let you know how it goes. Hopefully I have enough land to plow to get this thing adjusted correctly. My wife is complaining cause we don't have much yard left as it is! |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 4:43pm
| Fixed it. Thanks! Too wide of tread, overbeamed and the screws that adjust the angle were loose. Pulled nice. Deep and level. Worked the ole 45 hard! |
Posted By: ToddSin NY
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 5:50pm
| Glad to hear Glock! |
Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 6:30pm
|
Way to go. It can be done. I have had many people tell me that a mtd plow is NFG. I have had a 45 and a #53 for many a year. Like to go to plow day and show them up.
I have modified mine to use Bullet blades. - AL
|
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 7:04pm
|
I believe that three 14's is about all I could pull here. It was a fight to keep the front end on the ground. At one point the front end jumped a couple foot off the ground before I could throttle her down or jab the brakes. Plowed at about three quarter throttle in second gear. One more small patch to go.
I need some weight for the front end.
|
Posted By: RoyR (MI)
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 7:08pm
|
Hey Glockhead,
Dad and I plowed with the CA and the plow we bought from you today. We added two suitcase weights to the front end to keep the front end down. Now it could use more weight on the back. Good thing the traction booster works. ------------- -------------- Roy 
|
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 7:10pm
| Thats great. I was wondering how that plow worked out for ya. I have a nice newer Allis two bottom plow I need to start working on here. I want to try my CA in the feild sometime. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 8:28pm
|
Is your traction booster working right? When you are plowing your reach down and grab the lift link and it should be slightly loose until you hit a tough spot then it should tighten as the weight transfers. That should help keep the front end down. If your front is still coming up then load the front tires with fluid or wheel weights or both. I just hang out front about 400 to 500 lbs of suitcase weights on the D17 when plowing with a fully mounted 4x14. Works real good. Plowed in alfalfa and spots of blue clay at local threshing bee 9" deep. Turned lots of heads. Was told to not even bother trying as the Super M's and 880 Olivers and 70 deere couldn't plow at all that year due to the extra hard conditions on that alfalfa. I wasn't sure that I could either. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2010 at 11:14pm
| Yeah the booster works great. I never had it do that before. Pretty fun! |