Chasing carb prob. on D17, suggestions?
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Topic: Chasing carb prob. on D17, suggestions?
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Subject: Chasing carb prob. on D17, suggestions?
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 4:40pm
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Been tinkering off and on for a week or two with my D17 series 4. Can't seem to figure out what is going on. When I got this thing home, it hadn't run in some time. Cleaned the carb, cleaned sediment bowl, and added gas and she fired up. At that time it ran really nice and smooth. Starting fixing all the other things, one being the manifold top by the exhaust port was cracked. Put a new threaded cast piece on and tried to weld it but the old manifold was really pitted so ended up brazing it on so I could just use the existing manifold to run it and keep going. Put it back on with some new manifold gaskets. It leaked at the rear exhaust port, so I took it apart and ground some of the other ports and checked with a straight edge and put back on. Still leaks a hair but not bad. Ever since I tinkered with the manifold it has run like crap. I pulled the carb nine or ten different times to clean it and check it and all is good. Put an inline fuel filter inbetween just to make sure no more junk is getting to the engine. Still runs like crap. The only time it runs good is when I choke it halfway. I don't think it's the carb but it could be. What else could be causing this. Someone suggested to run it and spray WD40 around the carb and the where the intakes meet the head to see if it sucks any in which I did not see any. Is it possible from brazing the manifold that it warped and it still isn't sitting right on the head? Could I take it to a machine shop and have them surface grind it to make sure it is true, or because it is worn and somewhat pitted, when it gets hot, it will warp bad again? I don't mind spending the $ on a new manifold if that's what the problem is, but I want to make sure before I do it. I did reuse the existing bolts and nuts but I did put new gaskets on. Was wondering what your suggestions are to look at.
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Replies:
Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 4:48pm
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How much play in the throttle shaft,maybe suckin air there.
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Posted By: Jim-Tea
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 5:14pm
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Check the air cleaner, might be plugged. Mine was. Jim
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Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 5:52pm
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If it runs good with the choke on it's either suckin air or the carb jet is restricted.
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Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 6:09pm
If the air cleaner were plugged, it would run rich. Can't help with the manifold question except to ask: Are you sure that you didn't affect something else when r&r carb? Good luck......
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 7:05pm
Chuck, Don't run it too long with an exhaust leak or you will have to have the side of the head milled to make it right again. Don't ask how I know. A good machine shop should be able to mill the manifold back flat which should be done unless you want to replace it. If you have an intake leak or a throttle shaft leaking, you should hear an increase in RPM's when the WD40 gets sucked in the leaking spot. If you sprayed and didn't notice that, you either missed the leak or you don't have one. It sure sounds like you have an intake leak by your description though.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 7:43pm
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I called the local shop and I am going to bring the manifold in and have it milled. He said it should cost no more then $60. Be a couple days to get it back. I know what you mean about the head Charlie. I had a WC head that I sent in once to get new frost plugs put in as one popped out. By the time I was done, it was that, valve job, and milled the side of the head as it was burnt out. I don't even want to remember what the bill was.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 8:37pm
That was a good perk where I used to work. I did all the milling on my head and manifold for my WC project and also replaced the valve guides and ground and lapped the valves myself.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: kendak
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 8:48pm
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you gonna spend more welding & trying to repair something that needs to go in the scrap pile than it's worth...you can buy a new aftermarket manifold for less than $150 ...you got a bad intake leak....if you can't afford a manifold ...you can't afford the tractor...take care ...Kent
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Posted By: Wil M (NEIA)
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2010 at 9:31pm
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Sounds like the carb adjustments need to be fined tuned.
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"Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs
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Posted By: KC-WD45
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 8:53am
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I was wondering what ever came of this. Did the milled manifold fix the problem? I think I have a very similar problem with my wd45 so I wanted to know if it was an intake leak. Thanks
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Posted By: Kip-Utah
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 10:48am
Get a good (new) manifold & new gaskets, and go from there.
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HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!!
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Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 12:51pm
check the small passages that are in behind the venturi on the carb. Had this happen many times.
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Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:15pm
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A clogged air cleaner makes them run lean, not rich. The only exception would be if the bowl vent on the carb were open to the outside. Having the bowl vent inside and restricted air cleaner causes a vacuum in the bowl and venturi area. If the pressure is the same, no fuel is drawn in.
Like someone else said, you'll have enough in that old manifold that you can buy a new one for. It could also have an internal crack and be sucking exhaust in. WD40 is not the best for finding vacuum leaks (not very flammable) . I would use something like carb spray. When the engine picks up the carb spray, it will respond quickly.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:46pm
I have had tractors sit for only a few months and ran like crap until I drained the carb and got to some fresh gas. Make sure you have good, fresh gas before you give up.
This winter I am thinking about storing most of my stuff with carbs run dry.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 8:04pm
I use Stabil in everything here with good results. Just have to use it with fresh gas to start with. If the gas is turning bad, have to drain it first.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 10:12pm
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I did have the manifold milled and it fixed the problem. Runs good now. But I agree that it should get a new one. I haven't worked on this tractor much this summer, but I didn't want to dump alot of money into it unless I got a chance to go through the transmission, rearend, hydraulics etc. From what I have diagnosed, all is good which means a new manifold is on the wishlist on this one. The shop that I had the milling done was cheap, but they didn't mill it straight, so the outlet on the top is tipped, as welll as the carb inlet. Not that big of deal, until you put the muffler and try to put the hood back on and the hole doesn't line up again. Like I said, lesson learned and I will buy a new one for it soon, as this tractor is getting a loader on it in the next month, so it can clear the snow out of the driveway.
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