Model B final drive bolt question
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Topic: Model B final drive bolt question
Posted By: trhod12
Subject: Model B final drive bolt question
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 6:25pm
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Should there be transmission/hydraulic fluid squirt out of the bottom bolts holes after remove the bottom studs that hold the final drive to the transmission?
I am trying to replace my hydraulic bracket with one that is similar to the bracket that is on Tony Carbaugh's site of his 3pt hitch he sells. When I removed the bottom stud, fluid was pooring out the hole.
When I replace the stock studs w/ the bolt, do I need to be careful not to screw these bolts into the housing too far??? Will the bolt go thru the housing and into the gears??
Thanks,
TRHOD12
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Replies:
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 8:17pm
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It should if you have not drained the fluid out before you you took the studs out. The holes go all the way thru. In the real world the stud should stay in and the nut just screw off. I don't think that I have ever had all the studs stay in. I always say to myself that I will loctite them in when I put them back together. That is as far as it goes and I put them back in tight without anything. I have never had any leak without using a sealer even though a sealer of some sort would be a good idea. I do heat the nut in a vice and remove it and chase both inside and stud threads. I double nut the studs and screw them back in tight. |
Posted By: trhod12
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 7:09am
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Dick, thanks again for the response.
When the stud tightens up in the housing. Do you know if it is the end of the stud (inside the housing) of the flattend thread area on the stud (against the outside of the housing) that tightens the stud???
http://www.tonystractors.com/images/BCcylbracketlg.jpg - http://www.tonystractors.com/images/BCcylbracketlg.jpg
The reason I am asking, If you look at this bracket for mounting the hydraulics for the 3 pt hitch. There are actually 5/8" course thread bolts with a nut ran all the way up the bolt, that replaces the OEM stud. It appears that I would need to tighten the bolt into the housing, then turn the nut down on the plate to tighten the plate and final drive housing to the transmission housing. I need to know if I should flatten a section of the threads on the 5/8" bolt.
Thanks again
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 1:21pm
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I wouldn't flatten any threads. I would put a lock washer between the nut and plate.
I see one bolt turned in more than the other. I would measure the threads on the stud you removed and make sure that the new bolt was in just as many threads as the stud. Not being in far enough would be a bigger problem down the road than being in farther than the original stud in that locaton. Quite a distance in to where it would be a problem as far as your studs concern.
If I aint to pooped when I get home from work I will try to get a picture of the inside of the transmission where the bolts come thru. I have three or four transmissions that are laing out in the shed/home shop that are open.
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Posted By: trhod12
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 4:33pm
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Thanks for your help Dick L. If you don't get to it tonight, that is ok. I'm not gonna be working on the tractor for a couple of days. I'm in a holding pattern till by friend makes my new hydaulic plate. It would be cool to be able to see what the inside looks like.
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 9:07pm
Just a quick shot. The upper right hand corner is the stud the way they look when they didn't come out. This one only had one stud that came out and it was an upper one.
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Posted By: trhod12
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2010 at 8:49am
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Great picture, I got it. Thanks for taking the time to help me understand.
Blessings,
Ted
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