620 front axle pivot bolt removal
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Garden Tractors
Forum Description: A great place to discuss the Simplicity and Allis Chalmers Garden Models
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=109690
Printed Date: 16 Jun 2024 at 4:57pm
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Topic: 620 front axle pivot bolt removal
Posted By: Darrell, Jr. (MN)
Subject: 620 front axle pivot bolt removal
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2015 at 10:35pm
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What is the best way to remove the front axle pivot bolt?
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Replies:
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2015 at 10:58pm
Darrel, does your tractor have the updated axle? Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Posted By: Darrell, Jr. (MN)
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2015 at 11:12pm
Tracy, I don't know if it has the updated axle, I just bought it last weekend at the Upper Midwest Orange Spectacular show. All I do know is that the pivot bolts comes in from the engine side and won't go back far enough for the axle to drop down and I did get all 4 motor mount bolts loose but was unable to get the motor to raise up so I just put it all back together for now. I am thinking about pushing it back and cutting it off to get it out and then putting a new bolt in front the other side when I get the axle re-bushed.
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Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2015 at 8:56am
Darrell, there should be an update to it. There was a plate welded to one side of the carrier. The bolt threaded into it, not just a nut on the end. It was to help keep bolt from wallowing out front holes. Part # 2029577 was the block number, welds behind frame brace. I used a block of CRS for mine. Can't remember the size of plate. It was 1/2 thick by 2x3 I think. HTH Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2015 at 8:35am
Darrell,
I think the only way to remove that bolt is to remove the engine. Or, at least lift the engine, and to do that theres a bunch of stuff that needs to be removed so you can lift it! Its a project no matter how ya look at it..
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Posted By: Darrell, Jr. (MN)
Date Posted: 06 Aug 2015 at 8:50pm
Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking about pushing it back as far as I can and cut if off and then push the rest out, then take and weld a nut to a plate and put on the engine side and then run a bolt in from out front, after I replace the bushing. What do you guys think about that idea, pros, cons?
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2015 at 6:48am
Good idea, but I'm not sure how much room ya got in there. My engine is out at the moment, and I plan on dumping it back in soon. I can take a pic or two of it for ya to see what yer' up against. That bolt will probably have to be made just right to fit without it threading into the engine block. You definitely don't need another drain hole in the block.. LOL!
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2015 at 8:30am
Darrell, I would leave it original and do the plate upgrade per service bulletin. JMHO Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Posted By: Darrell, Jr. (MN)
Date Posted: 07 Aug 2015 at 12:10pm
Steve, I have about 1-1/2" from where the bolt goes to the engine block and would have no problem with space there, and I'm pretty sure I have the room for a bolt long enough going in from the front to make it work too. It just seems like an awful lot of work to get that bolt out the right way.
Tracy, I looked and it looks like there has been a thin plate added to the nut side but the nut is nut attached to this plate. I also think that there is nothing wrong with the outer holes and I'm pretty sure the play is coming from a worn pivot bushing. I was thinking that while I had the axle out that I would go ahead and do the spindle bushings as well
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