D17 steering part 2 (nervous)
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10911
Printed Date: 23 Jan 2025 at 3:10pm
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Topic: D17 steering part 2 (nervous)
Posted By: cmpman
Subject: D17 steering part 2 (nervous)
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 8:41am
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Hello again I had a d17 in need of a steering cylinder assembly and have been taking everones great advice. I did finally get the part very hard to find and very expensive!!
I also got the I&T manual. Now I just need to get the courage to do it. When I take the radiator out do I have to lift the front of the tractor to drop the front axle out from the front support or leave it together then take it apart. I hope I explained alright thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 8:56am
| Definitely remove the radiator. You do not want it to be damaged if anything happens - only 2 bolts hold it. No need to lift the front of the tractor, just support the tractor at the torque tube (close to the engine). Remove the ps lines and 4 bolts from the casting and pull the front end forward. Make sure you wedge some wood between the casting and the axle on both sides so the casting does not flop around. |
Posted By: cmpman
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 9:27am
| Thanks. when I get the front pulled off is it hard to line up the new rack teeth for center or do I just pull the ram out about half way then line up teeth any pointers on that? |
Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 9:28am
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As DSeries4 said support the tractor behind the engine. Lift a little weight off the ground but let the tires stay on the ground so you can roll the frontend forward.
I put a little kid's wagon with some blocks of wood in it to support the frontend rails in the rear so when I roll the axle forward the whole thing stays level. Once pulled forward support it with concrete block or wood
You will find you will have to angle the whole back of the axle rails down to pull everything forward and then support them level.
When you slide the axle back into place again the rear will probably have to be angled down some.
When you go to bolt the front housing back on you might find the bolt holes won't line up. The frame rails may want to bow towards the center of the tractor. Get one side started and have someone pry the frame rail with a bar until the holes line up with the casing.
God Bless You. This is not a fun job.
In my pictures I had to replace the control motor on the other side.
Got it back together and the gasket leaked.
Had to do the job twice.
You can say I was not a very happy person that day.
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Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 9:31am
| Sorry I can't help with your last question. I never had to replace the cylinder. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 9:45am
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I would recommend using an engine lift to handle the front bolster when you take it off. It is heavy! I just pulled mine off my D17D last night. To make dealing with the fame rails easier, I would loosen the bolts at the torque tube so they will swing when you go back together. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 10:09am
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The rack has to be "timed" so the tractor will turn the same right to left and left to right. |
Posted By: cmpman
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 12:58pm
| how do you time it? by sight? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 1:13pm
| I'd turn the wheels clear to the left......shove the rack in as short as it can be......connect it to the idler gear and tighten all hardware snugly and try it before complete reassembly. It it's off, try changing it one tooth at a time. |
Posted By: cmpman
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 7:00pm
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That makes sence dr. allis. I have managed to get the bucket out of the way and have removed the radiator so far. Going better than I thought the only problem so far has been freeing up the bolts. Ill save the rest for another day running out of day light. Im sure I will need you guys help later . Again thanks for all the great help I feel more confident knowing you guys are just a click away. |
Posted By: Dave (NE)
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2010 at 7:18pm
| Gatz helped me do a front end split on my D17 IV and took some pictures. I placed a 55 gallon barrel under it to assist with rolling the front end forward. Really worked pretty well and I would recommend this. I was dropping the oil pan to repair it, but also did some power steering work. Yes, remove the radiator. Not hard and nice to have it out of the way avoiding damage. Dave |
Posted By: paulinkansas
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 8:43am
You can probably get one side of the frame rail bolts in, the other side won't line up. What I did is to get the bolts on one side started (leaving about an inch gap between the power steering housing and the end of the frame rail). On the side that doesn't line up, I take another bolt and trim off 2 sides of the bolt. That way, the end of the bolt can fit into the hole, give it half a turn and you've got 3 or 4 threads in contact with the corresponding threads in the hole.
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Jeff Z. NY wrote:Posted By: cmpman
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 3:02pm
 I DID IT FOR SOME UNKNOWN REASON IT WENT WELL!!!! Using the wagon trick and good blocking it went surpriseingly well . took the day off to do it, started at 8am just got done 3:30pm. Could not have done it with out your help thanks!! here are some pics of my adventure. p.s. do know what causes the steering to break like that. Is it because I dont have weight in the back? Dont ever want to do that again!
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