Allis Chalmers 620 reliability?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Garden Tractors
Forum Description: A great place to discuss the Simplicity and Allis Chalmers Garden Models
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=108299
Printed Date: 26 Nov 2024 at 1:45pm
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Topic: Allis Chalmers 620 reliability?
Posted By: WD45Diesel57
Subject: Allis Chalmers 620 reliability?
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2015 at 12:15pm
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I am in the process of buying an Allis 620. It runs but needs starter. Im not familiar with them just wondering what are the pros and cons of this model. any input would be great! thanks ------------- 1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100 |
Replies:
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2015 at 10:05pm
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Hi Allen, The original Onan engine is very expensive to rebuild if it needs it. Many repower with a Honda. The steering boxes can get loose and sloppy over time - Adjustment can be done to help, but haven't tried on mine yet. The rear PTO can be very troublesome if it has it. Most of the trouble was electrical in nature for the machine as a whole. Your starter might not be the problem, but rather a wiring or safety switch issue. When they are working right, they are a nice and comfortable tractor to operate. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2015 at 11:19pm
| repower with a briggs vangaurd 23hp make sure the starter is top notch before you put it back in and all of the cables and wires are clean and tight mostly the switches and wire conections are forty years old so every thing has a nice non conductive petina |
Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2015 at 7:33am
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How to wreck an Onan 2cyl opposed: Failure to screw down the oil dipstick cap. The opposed pistons go in and out in unison. There are large pressure pulses inside the crank case. They even use this pressure to run fuel pumps in some models. With the oil dipstick cap not seated, dirty air is sucked in thru the dipstick tube,contaminates the engine oil. At the same time, engine oil is pumped out of the engine thru the crankcase breather system, into the intake manifold or air cleaner. So contaminated engine oil and also loss of oil pressure do to low level. If your Onan suddenly starts smoking, check the seating/screw down of the oil check dipstick. And its gasket. Lucky for us, the Onan in the 620 has the large 3.75 qt. oil capacity. The P218 Onan used in the John Deere's can loose their 1.75 quarts of oil in a hurry. This smoking can be intermittent, as an accumulated slug of oil passes into the intake stream. For the starter solenoid to activate the electricity must pass the neutral safety switch at hydrostat controls, front PTO switch and rear PTO switch. I don't think there was a seat switch, nor a neutral switch for the 3 speed range selector transmission. Can someone confirm? |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2015 at 9:42am
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As the resto on my 620 is going along super slow, I did notice some play in the steering box on mine. I did adjust the box just a tad, and it took all of the play out. I'll see how it is once its back in service again. I figured let me do this now while I can see the steering box, plus when I install the loader, that will add some weight to the nose also...
------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2015 at 9:53am
| mostly the pto switches and connections. some of those p 216 18 20 will not even pump fuel with a bad or loose dipstick learned that on a customers welder that came for some electrical things had tape covering the dipstick hole would not make pulse until the dipstick was replaced |
Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2015 at 4:38pm
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I finally solved the fail to engage starter issue by running a fused wire directly from the start terminal of the ignition switch, to the actuate wire of the solenoid.
Steve - what does an owner have to take off/out to get at the adjustment on the steering gear? Thanks.
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Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2015 at 8:53pm
------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
BrianC wrote:Posted By: WD45Diesel57
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2015 at 10:12pm
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thanks guys for all your input, I'm going Saturday morning to get it. I didn't pay much for it so I can afford some repair and fixing up. I will give updates when I get it home! ------------- 1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100 |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2015 at 9:32am
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Merle, Being the steering box is "down under" so to speak, the adjuster faces the driveshaft, so I would imagine that you have to remove the wrap around cooler at the back of the engine to get access to the steering box, or drop the belly pan access panel and see if you can get in there from there. You can't get to it removing the center inspection panel in front of the dash cause' its to far forward. Another thing that I have found with the steering, is before I tore down the Tractor to restore, the steering seemed to be real loose in it. Well, come to find out, once I got down to the steering box, the bolts in the steering box were loose also! Another thing you might want to check out while your in there. One of those steering box bolts face upward and is on the inside of the frame rail support brackets. You can just get a 3/4 open end wrench in there to tighten the bolt if need be. Here's a pic of the box and its position. Without the engine in it, and cooler stuff, you can see it. I installed new bolts n' lock washers in the steering box to make sure they don't get loose again. HTH Steve  ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2015 at 11:00pm
| Thanks, Steve. Hopefully will get to that this summer, and give it a try. Don't want to pull the motor out again, so will see how it goes from the underside. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2015 at 9:36am
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Can't say that I blame ya Merle for not wanting to pull the engine out again! LMAO!! They are not easy to remove!
------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |