Making a Battery Box
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10709
Printed Date: 23 Jan 2025 at 7:23am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Making a Battery Box
Posted By: Lanse
Subject: Making a Battery Box
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 10:44pm
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Hey yall... So, i want to make a battery box for my Allis C. I
guess i will just go somewhere tomorrow and buy
some sheet metal and cut it up and try to weld it
together. I have two questions: Ive never tried to weld sheet metal before... All
i have is my lincoln buzzbox, a big AC stick
welder. I was talking to R Aikin today, and he
said i could get some really skinny rods and turn
the welder way down and it would work, but i dont
know what kind of rod to use for this... Any
ideas?? And the other thing, what "kind" of steel would i
use for this?? What gauge would you recommend?? Im thinking i just want something that isn't
rusted out to hold my battery in place. If it doesn't look the greatest, like it probably wont,
then when i have some more money to work with and
do a full restoration of that tractor, i will buy
a battery box... Thanks for the input!!
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Replies:
Posted By: Wes (VA)
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 12:07am
Welding with a stick welder on sheet metal or 'thin' metals can be done but it takes practice..lots of it! I'm not much on it myself..I usually use acetylene torch with a welding tip for small stuff like that. Either way, you have to be careful not to overheat the project. It is easier to overheat/warp the project with the torch, but it can be done with the stick as well! So..you have to skip around the seam of where you're welding to keep the heat from being localized or all in one place and warping the thing. Usually the battery box on the C's are spot welded together, and the seam isn't completely filled in. Be sure to plan out what you're going to end up with..measure, then measure again! and write it down and draw it out on paper or whatever piece of cardboard you got layin around. (use cardboard and you can use it as a template onto the metal) 18 or 20 ga. is somewhere around what you want to use. I'd tend to lean toward 18 for a battery box..its a little heavier than 20; it may actually heavier than that?? (I get my ga. sizes off sometimes) As for the rods.. 6013's are a pretty good 'all around' rod. The do come in different sizes..and I'd get 3/32" which I think will do a good job for ya considering the light metal. Oh, and as for the metal itself, a sheet of cold-rolled or mild steel should be fine. Hope this helps ya out. -Wes
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 6:28am
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If you use thicker steel to make the box it'll be easier to weld! Wes is right,thin tin can be 'fun' to weld with a stick welder, but after a few hours you'll get the hang of it.You'll get lots of practise if you try welding up old lawn mower decks!!! But it can be done.
I've used 3/4" angle iron for corners,welding the plates insdie the box to make the outside look pretty.Super strong too.
Wes is right , be sure the box will FIT the battery! Make it a bit bigger NOTHING is more frustrating that finding out after an afternoon of tinkering that inside dimensions and outside dimensions are NOT the same thing(don't ask but I have a big scrap bin...)
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: scott
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 6:59am
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Try 6013 rod, 3/32 or maybe 1/16 diameter. Probably require the lowest welder setting. If you aren't a "welder" consider 1/8 plate to keep from burning thru. Galvanized sheet will give off toxic gas so stick with plain steel. Heat will be your biggest enemy so short welds will be easiest. Good Luck
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 7:52am
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I can help you. Have sheet metal shop.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Posted By: NNYACAL
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 8:11am
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Lanse Plan your box so that most of the corners are bent instead of welded as this will decrease the number of welds you have to make.
NNYACAL
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G,IB,B,C,CA,RC,WC,WF,WD,WD45,D14,D17SERIES 1,2,4
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Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 8:23am
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If you lived close to Chesterton Indiana my BIL could brake form you a nice box. He has a 20000 # press in his basement. I'm not kidding.
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Posted By: Royal SW Ia
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 9:15am
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I usually bend as many of the corners as possible and then use brazing with acetylene to fasten the pieces together. Also keep the heat and welded area to a minimum to prevent warping. I usually tack small areas on the inside of the box to make a good looking box.
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Posted By: Ray
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 9:21am
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Hi
I have a nice original B or C battery box. Has the lid and all,ready to put on tractor. $75.00 785-353-2392 Thanks
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Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 2:16pm
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There are too many people selling after market to make one yourself. Call Sandy Lake at1-888-252-0656 they have them.
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Posted By: RickUP
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 5:33pm
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If you have the metal laying around, and a friend who owns a wire feed welder, and owes you a favor now that would work good. Wire feed is best for thin metal. Check the price of making one opposed to purchase, carefully.
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 6:31pm
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I have a spot welder which in my book is even better. Oh, and I even have the metal.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Posted By: TMiller/NC
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 6:41pm
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Lanse, the battery box I had made for my B doesn't have any welding. The bottom is a pan, the back and ends are one piece broke in a channel, to fit inside the bottom, the front is a channel with short legs to fit over the ends, and the top is the same as the bottom. Let me know if you need measurements.
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Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 7:07pm
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I made a battery box . Remember Rescued B on old format. Use 14 ga steel plate . I used 3/32 dia 6011 rod .Low setting and weld in a drag motion .Don't heat up as bad and not bothered with sl*g like 6013.
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Posted By: norm [ind]
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 8:20pm
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our new boxes are $70.00 with the top complete 1-800-254-3116 all models execpt the wd45d
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 8:36pm
i have made seveal boxes for B. i use 14 guage plain sheet metal, no galvanize. i cut each panel and seam the corners with a wire feed welder. you cant bend 14 gauge real easy on big parts. i do make the lid from one piece and bend the edges over a steel table and then seam the edges. You could probalby do it with a stick welder, but will have some blow thru and not really smooth. Grind down the edge when done to clean it up.. Give yourself about 3/8 inch from the tool box, and maybe 1/2 inch in the back next to the steering post so you can get the nuts on the light box.. there are severall 12 volt batteries that will easily fit into that box.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Allen Dilg
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 9:03pm
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Lance It AIN"T worth it!! Save you nickles and buy a new one!!
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Posted By: Rogers
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 9:34pm
I built a battery box for my D15 using 1/8" sheet metal for the bottom and 1/8" x 3/4" flat iron for the sides. I bent the frame around the box bottom out of the flat iron. It is easy to bend the flat iron in a shop vice. I welded everything with a mig wire welder. I built it from scratch and painted it in a day. I used a hole saw to cut the hole for the mounting bolt in the bottom. Lining up the hole just right and notching the bracket for the mounting bolts was the hardest part of the job.
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Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.
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