fixing leaking hyd ram on D17 ser. 4, questions.
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Topic: fixing leaking hyd ram on D17 ser. 4, questions.
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Subject: fixing leaking hyd ram on D17 ser. 4, questions.
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 8:15pm
I took off the leaking hydraulic ram on my D17 series 4. Whenever the tractor was running, fluid would be slowly dripping out of this cylinder, come out of the seal by the end of the ram. I took it off tonite and took it apart. Obviously the seal on the end is probably bad, but when I took it apart, there is some other parts that are questionable. In sequence from the outside of the ram is the seal and cap, and then there's a sleeve that the ram slides through and then the end of the ram with the inner seal parts. There are two fiber collar pieces, both of which have a slot in them. It that just to remove and replace them or are they supposed to be one piece. Also the sleeve between the end cap and the inner seals seems to have quite a bit of wiggle room between it and the hyd. ram. Shouldn't this be somewhat tighter? Does AGCO sell a complete kit for this ram that would include the outer seals, inner seals, and that sleeve part? Now that I got it almost all broken down, I don't want to just replace the outer seal and put it back on to later find out that I should have replaced some of the other components. Or would I be better off dropping it off someplace and having the whole thing rebuilt. This is the first ram I have taken apart and want to do it right, and would like to learn as I have a couple on my HD3 to do as well. Anyways, here are some pictures.
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Replies:
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 8:25pm
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Chuck - yes AGCO sells kits for the whole thing as I did both of mine back in 2006. You might want to PM Gatz as he found an alternate source that was cheaper if I remember right. Per Dr. Allis, that packing retainer nut is loctite'd on so you'll need heat to take it off easily and more loctite to put it back together. Wish I'd known that when I did mine but it hasn't come apart yet. Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
Posted By: Dave (NE)
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 8:28pm
| Yes, Agco sells the entire seal kit. I've replaced both on my D17 IV. Part no. 70255805. Approx $57 for each a year ago. |
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 8:33pm
| Thanks for the info both of you guys. That would explain why I didn't get the nut off the end. I didn't want to force it too much and I didn't have a spanner wrench for it, so I figured I would try to make one or find one. |
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 8:36pm
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Yes - get a GOOD face pin spanner wrench....my mechanic I was working with had some snap-on ones. Since we did NOT know about the loctite we had to pin the cylinder rod clevis on one to a crawler drawbar and use a cheater pipe on the spanner wrench to get it off....sigh...
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
Posted By: Dave (NE)
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 10:10pm
| I made a spanner wrench. Not too difficult. Couple of flat bars overlapping and bolted to each other with 1/4" bolts in the ends to fit into the nut. I could take a picture if you want. Mine were not loctite on and I never used it when putting it back together. Gatz helped with one of mine. I tried to get the parts from the same source he used, but they didn't have the kit anymore. |
Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 1:05pm
| Looks like ya got a nick on the ram from the picture there Chuck. If it is nicked or gouged you probably wont be able to hold oil in the cylinder as it will wear the seals out fast. Since oil is only supposed to be on the back side of the piston, might work. HTH |
Posted By: jrjuday
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 8:01pm
| Is your cylinder bent, or does it just look that way in the picture? |
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 8:20pm
| I think it is the way that the picture was taken, as it looks like the housing is bent the other way. I will check it with a straightedge when I get the rest apart. Thanks. |
Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 9:00pm
| I have rebuilt more than a dozen hyd.cyls.and I only replace piston seals in about 2 of them,I take the gland nut and seals to local hyd.shop usually cost about $5 to $20 bucks. |
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 9:52pm
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Chuck - when you have straight lines in a photo bow out like it's called "barrel distortion" in photography. If happens at the wide angle end of zoom lenses. If you step back a few steps and zoom in with the lens you'll find that distortion goes away. Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |