1950 WD w/Loader
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10599
Printed Date: 23 Jan 2025 at 1:02am
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Topic: 1950 WD w/Loader
Posted By: Hlone
Subject: 1950 WD w/Loader
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 9:23pm
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I have came home with a 1950 WD with a Model 80 trip bucket loader.
It has several issues and I am trying to figure out if it is worth putting any money into this tractor or continuing my search for something a better. Look and Read on to let me know your thoughts and opinions. They are appreciated!
    Current Condition:
The Good:
- New Rear Tires Goodyear Duratorque DT221
- Transmission, Clutch, and Hand Clutch are tight and sound good
- Engine Starts and runs.
- Hydrolic pump works, lifts loader and rear 2-point
- Tractor steers and drives fine
- No major rust patches. It is faded but has a nice hood and frame
- No breaks or welds on the frame or loader
The Bad:
- Engine smokes badly. It had been sitting for several years and it seems like the rings may be stuck.
- There is a 1/4" hole in the exhaust manifold and it needs to be replaced
 - At some point the tractor may have been rolled on its side as the loader is sweaked to the left and is a bit off center if measured from side to side.
- The Hydrolic pump runs slowly, 1 of the loader cylinders leaks (taking it to get fixed tomorrow), and the pump also leaks fluid. The set speed is turned up as far as it goes.
- No voltage from the generator. May be wires or the generator or both. It is still 6 volt.
The reason I bought the tractor is to have something around my place to lift and pull things around. I bouth this thing from a farmer who got it as partial payment for a Hay bill that was unpaid. he didn't know much about the tractor and does not know / like Allis and wanted to get rid of it for a good price.
Now that I have it home and my father and I have spent some time looking it over I am trying to decide if it is worth:
- Pulling the head off to replace the rings, but when you open the top it is hard knowing what you will find and spend $$. What is your opinion?
- What does it take to go through the hydrolic pump and get it working properly again? Thoughs opinions on this?
- Should I just sell / part the tractor out and move onto another allis?
Please let me know your thoughts and opinions. I do value them.
Thanks!!
Steven in Illinois.
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Replies:
Posted By: Freewheelin
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 12:48am
| Try some SeaFoam. Might loosen up the rings. With good tin, tires, and tranny I'd fix it. But then, I'm addicted to saving old iron. Whatever you do don't part it out. My 2 cents.. |
Posted By: Rog(NCWI)
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 2:21am
| It all depends on what you had to pay for it and how much you want to fix it up and how much you want to stick in the tractor. A good runing WD with a loader around where I live in that shape may go for $1500.00 +. Tires are a big item and you said they are nearly new, sheet metal in fairly good shape and tranny in good shape I would fix it up. If you can not free up the rings and have to go into the engine, go all the way while you got it open. After you have it all back to gather and you find out the the rear seal leaks, that means you have to tear it all apart again. Been there, done that. Good luck in yuor adventure. |
Posted By: Hlone
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 5:46am
| Thanks! I have put in Sea Foam and Lucas Oil already (forgot to mentioin it). It looks like we need more majic to get the rings unstuck. |
Posted By: Hlone
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 5:49am
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Thanks. I was thinking that if I opened up the engine I would get one of the in-frame overhaul kits and spend around $450 - $550 to make the engine good again. Has anyone re-built a Hydrolic pump? How much work does that take? |
Posted By: Gary in Texas
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 7:03am
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I pulled the pump on mine, found one of the fingers stuck, and one had a broken spring. I called Brenda (Sandy Lake), got a replcement spring, gaskets and seals. That took care of the problem I had.
It is easier if the right frame rail is off, but you can do it with out removing the frame rail.
The book gave me the info I needed to do it, I am not a mechanice, just a retired soldier, but enjoy getting into the grease.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 7:36am
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I would certainly fix it. The smoking engine may have nothing to do with the rings. Valve guides do not have seals on them and I have seen them wore so bad the plugs would foul in 30 minutes of running. My CA sat for 10 years in Dad's shed before I got it. It wouldn't even run decent because of valve leaks and burning oil so I worked over the head. It smoked some for several years until I put it to work. The more I worked it the better it got. It will still run good today(27 years later) but the thrust bearing is bad and she's awaiting bottom end work. Good luck with the WD. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: OrangePowerGA
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 9:05am
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I would fix the issues and use it. There is a lot of stuff you'll be able to do with that loader.
Putting it to work may clear up most or all the smoke issues. Good luck.
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Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 10:09am
| I would fix it. As to the twist in the loader frame, My WD had the same problem and I ran a chain from the front of the high side of the loader arms to a solid anchor point and slowly raised the loader until it had a good twist the other way, then released it and checked the alignment. Took a couple of tries to get it, but it straightened the frame and it's still good 10 years later. |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 10:18am
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Considering that we are looking at a 60 year old tractor I think you got a very good deal. Rear, clutches, transmission, tires, and tin are all good. The 1950's had the gear transmission that lasts forever. Hyd is a relatively easy fix - course you don't know what it is till you get there - but my experience has been that they are easy to fix. From what I read parts are available. Do a good job on the engine. Pull it out. Easier to work on.
With that done you will probably have another 60 year tractor. They build them good at Allis Chalmers.
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Posted By: bigfish_Oh
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 12:07pm
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I figured I would be the pack rack so I did not answer first and take the easy way out, I would look for a later one with snap coupler or a 45 with trashed tires that ran ok, swap some parts and sell one or keep spare parts. It all depended on initial cost though. It will be fun no matter what you do.
------------- 1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p. 1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe 1951 WD, factory p.s. 1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale 2014 HD Tri Glide 2009 GMC CC SLT Dually |
Posted By: ToddSin NY
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 1:05pm
| Your Hyd problem maybe just water in the oil. Change to oil first before pulling the pump. |
Posted By: Hlone
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 10:29pm
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I believe you have a good point. There may be some water in the Hydrolics as it had been sitting outside for 1 year (at least). I will definately try and see what happens! Thanks for your input! |
Posted By: Hlone
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2010 at 10:31pm
| Thanks for the input we will have to dig in and take a look at them. |
Posted By: weiner43
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 9:30am
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I would run it for a while with a good additive. It may free up on it`s own and be a decent running tractor. ------------- God bless our troops and the United States of America. Pick your rut well, you may be in it a long time. |